The Official Wide Tire Thread
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 109
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From: bahrain, originally from cali
TE37'S 18x9.5+22
5 mm spacers
pulling of fenders, going to need to do some more when I go back to stock body when I get back to the states in July. Have not driven the car since 2015 ( drove it for a week in July 2016 )
275 30 18's
^That can help for the front depending on how much negative camber you're looking to run. I think Dallas said he can get over 3 degrees doing that when this was brought up in the past. I was shocked how much slop there is with the mounts for the DFV's. So if you need to, a lil extra pulling outward before snuggling down the bolts helps to dial in a lil more camber.
What size tire are you looking to run? And are you adamant on not running a spacer up front? Im dropping down to either a 7" or 6" spring this winter as the hohos move around a lot and I was rubbing the lower perch.
What size tire are you looking to run? And are you adamant on not running a spacer up front? Im dropping down to either a 7" or 6" spring this winter as the hohos move around a lot and I was rubbing the lower perch.
^That can help for the front depending on how much negative camber you're looking to run. I think Dallas said he can get over 3 degrees doing that when this was brought up in the past. I was shocked how much slop there is with the mounts for the DFV's. So if you need to, a lil extra pulling outward before snuggling down the bolts helps to dial in a lil more camber.
What size tire are you looking to run? And are you adamant on not running a spacer up front? Im dropping down to either a 7" or 6" spring this winter as the hohos move around a lot and I was rubbing the lower perch.
What size tire are you looking to run? And are you adamant on not running a spacer up front? Im dropping down to either a 7" or 6" spring this winter as the hohos move around a lot and I was rubbing the lower perch.
Yeah same setup as you, CDR plates and 8" spring. I've always just ran with the eccentric for max camber so Im not even sure how much you can dial with it the other way or how much room it gives you flipping it. Just as a data point a 255/40-17 on a +38 wheel fit with street tires without hitting. So thats moreorless similar to what youre looking to run as its 4mm inward but 10mm narrower tire which means your tire sits 1mm further in doing some crude not very scientific math. Your tire is also very slightly taller which also isnt helping your case.
So your options are do what you first asked and flip the bolt to gain some room...use a spacer(good option just do it already) shorter spring or narrower tire(terrible idea)
So your options are do what you first asked and flip the bolt to gain some room...use a spacer(good option just do it already) shorter spring or narrower tire(terrible idea)
Yeah same setup as you, CDR plates and 8" spring. I've always just ran with the eccentric for max camber so Im not even sure how much you can dial with it the other way or how much room it gives you flipping it. Just as a data point a 255/40-17 on a +38 wheel fit with street tires without hitting. So thats moreorless similar to what youre looking to run as its 4mm inward but 10mm narrower tire which means your tire sits 1mm further in doing some crude not very scientific math. Your tire is also very slightly taller which also isnt helping your case.
So your options are do what you first asked and flip the bolt to gain some room...use a spacer(good option just do it already) shorter spring or narrower tire(terrible idea)
So your options are do what you first asked and flip the bolt to gain some room...use a spacer(good option just do it already) shorter spring or narrower tire(terrible idea)
^Yeah factory springs are 8". Just get some ARP's and a spacer already. Wider front track helps turn in as well bro.
And if you decide to go with stiffer rates HMU I've got some for you...
And if you decide to go with stiffer rates HMU I've got some for you...
Yep, lots of slop in all the shock options for adjusting camber within a given bolt direction. I remember measuring something like 1.25deg difference between pushed in and pulled out with the bolt in the same direction.
So what you can run at the hub for camber just depends on what you need for tire clearance and will be completely dependent on "your" parts. I run the bolt flipped to pos camber side and pushed all the way in with 295s, 6" springs (spring perch above tire), 15mm spacer, and 3.2 deg of camber adjusted at the top.
Next year with the Flags and the lower spring perch, Im going to have to run the pos camber bolt position pulled all the way out, then max out camber up top and run enough spacer to then clear the spring. Should end up back at 3.2-3.5 deg camber but does increase my SAI without increasing slider axis angle. But, the shocks will work
Another example of the old 285 setup was 20mm spacer up front (RPF1) and bolt set to negative camber. I would snug the strut bolts, put the tire on, then pry the wheel away from the strut to get ~5mm clearance. Then tighten the strut bolts as well as I could with wheel on. Remove wheel and torque. This gave tightest clearance to the strut then I dialed rest of camber at the top. Could get -4.5deg of camber and this was before my uprights to reduce how much I actually need.
So what you can run at the hub for camber just depends on what you need for tire clearance and will be completely dependent on "your" parts. I run the bolt flipped to pos camber side and pushed all the way in with 295s, 6" springs (spring perch above tire), 15mm spacer, and 3.2 deg of camber adjusted at the top.
Next year with the Flags and the lower spring perch, Im going to have to run the pos camber bolt position pulled all the way out, then max out camber up top and run enough spacer to then clear the spring. Should end up back at 3.2-3.5 deg camber but does increase my SAI without increasing slider axis angle. But, the shocks will work
Another example of the old 285 setup was 20mm spacer up front (RPF1) and bolt set to negative camber. I would snug the strut bolts, put the tire on, then pry the wheel away from the strut to get ~5mm clearance. Then tighten the strut bolts as well as I could with wheel on. Remove wheel and torque. This gave tightest clearance to the strut then I dialed rest of camber at the top. Could get -4.5deg of camber and this was before my uprights to reduce how much I actually need.
is there any difference where you adjust the camber or is camber camber. i think i can reach -3 just from the tops with the bolts in the low camber setting, is there any reason not to do this? i get more tire clearance, not that i necessarily need it
If you ask me, if you have a choice you need wider tires 
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If you change camber via strut plates you increase SAI which reduces camber with higher steering angles. But you also gain Slider Axis Angle which could give better camber gain. I personally would max my angle at the strut and add camber at the top as needed. That may also give you more room to add caster via strut plate.
. If you change camber via strut plates you increase SAI which reduces camber with higher steering angles. But you also gain Slider Axis Angle which could give better camber gain. I personally would max my angle at the strut and add camber at the top as needed. That may also give you more room to add caster via strut plate.