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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 09:36 AM
  #811  
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Originally Posted by PAdutch
Last summer I had all 5 wheel studs break on the front drivers wheel of my autoX SM Evo 8. These were generic extended studs with ~12mm spacer. I had been running this set-up for a few years, had one or two studs break, but never a whole wheel. At that time I considered upgrading to 14mm or 9/16 wheel stud. It should be a simple drill/hone of the hub. I since sold the car but may be worth considering.
i'm looking for wheels with no spacers. plus im done running hoosiers and just want to run street tires in the future.
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 09:47 AM
  #812  
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Originally Posted by PAdutch
Last summer I had all 5 wheel studs break on the front drivers wheel of my autoX SM Evo 8. These were generic extended studs with ~12mm spacer. I had been running this set-up for a few years, had one or two studs break, but never a whole wheel. At that time I considered upgrading to 14mm or 9/16 wheel stud. It should be a simple drill/hone of the hub. I since sold the car but may be worth considering.


Larger studs are not necessary. ARP's are plenty strong.

Originally Posted by igo4bmx
i'm looking for wheels with no spacers. plus im done running hoosiers and just want to run street tires in the future.
If you want to be bale to rotate your tires with dismounting them (from the wheel) you're going to be running a front spacer.
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 12:53 PM
  #813  
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From: Philly, PA
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Larger studs are not necessary. ARP's are plenty strong.



If you want to be bale to rotate your tires with dismounting them (from the wheel) you're going to be running a front spacer.
well for example I ran 18x9.5 +28 ce28n with no spacers FYI...
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 01:39 PM
  #814  
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Originally Posted by igo4bmx
well for example I ran 18x9.5 +28 ce28n with no spacers FYI...
Then you weren't pushing tire size. Up in the 285 range spacers are just the way to go so you can rotate.
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 02:01 PM
  #815  
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Yeah...no way a +28 would fit in the front with a 285 or 295 and no spacer. I had to run 10mm spacers w/ 9.5 +27 NT03s and 285/30s IIRC
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 04:32 PM
  #816  
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110 ft-lbs for the ARP studs.
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 06:35 PM
  #817  
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From: Philly, PA
Originally Posted by RJones
Yeah...no way a +28 would fit in the front with a 285 or 295 and no spacer. I had to run 10mm spacers w/ 9.5 +27 NT03s and 285/30s IIRC
i think you guys read my posts wrong since i never mentioned tire sizes

with the ce28n 18x9.5 +28 I ran a fairly normally sized (hankook rs2) 265/35/18 which didn't rub.

I ran rpf1 with spacers 18x9.5 +38 (and also 18x10 +38) with 285 hoosiers with no rub.

for now im ditching the hoho setup (which i got rid of) and plan on getting a 265 or 275 setup with 18x9.5 +28-35. I really want to ditch spacers for now after my bad luck

Here is a video of the incident. You can see the wheel flying by lol
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 07:46 AM
  #818  
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^That's crazy and its on video! I guess it could be worse depending on where it happened...Sucks nonetheless!

Originally Posted by griceiv
110 ft-lbs for the ARP studs.
Where are you deriving this figure from? And what are you using for lugnuts? Something tells me the nuts will yield before the studs.
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 07:48 AM
  #819  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
^That's crazy and its on video! I guess it could be worse depending on where it happened...Sucks nonetheless!



Where are you deriving this figure from? And what are you using for lugnuts? Something tells me the nuts will yield before the studs.
Some one on here did yield testing, that's how that figure was come to. Mine torque like butter to 110ftlbs with motorsport hardware steel lug nuts.
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 08:04 AM
  #820  
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Do they start to yield at 110 or hopefully after that? And did the studs fail before the lug nuts or vice versa? Im wondering if I should step up my lug nut game as I've had the same set for a few years now. Theyre just steel open ended nuts motegi or something like that. Never really put much thought into the nuts TBH. I'd love a set of Ti nuts but hard to justify the cost personally but it is tempting.
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 09:04 AM
  #821  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Where are you deriving this figure from? And what are you using for lugnuts? Something tells me the nuts will yield before the studs.
75% of yield strength is ~110 ft-lbs. I have chromoly blox lug nuts.

the problem isn't yielding the studs or nuts but rather that inadequate preload(torque) will cause the studs to fatigue because the wheel isn't clamped down tight enough for racing loads.

and FYI, if you ever break one stud stop racing and replace all studs on that axle IMMEDIATELY! consider it a warning shot that **** is about to go down.

Last edited by griceiv; Jan 13, 2017 at 09:14 AM.
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 09:24 AM
  #822  
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What Grice said
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 12:54 PM
  #823  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
^That's crazy and its on video! I guess it could be worse depending on where it happened...Sucks nonetheless!



Where are you deriving this figure from? And what are you using for lugnuts? Something tells me the nuts will yield before the studs.
worst part was this was me recording my friend codriving... and when this all went down everyone was comforting him not me
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 12:14 PM
  #824  
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245/40/18 Mickey Thompson Street Radials on my 8

2003 Mitsubishi Evolution 8 by Zach Testa, on Flickr
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 12:15 PM
  #825  
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2003 Mitsubishi Evolution 8 by Zach Testa, on Flickr
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