Tein flex, wheels, alignment etc etc etc
#1
Tein flex, wheels, alignment etc etc etc
I've been reading so much on this subject and am still lost!
Just picked up some tein flex and have volk 19 x 8.5 + 36 on the way.
So far i've found a lot of info on setting the stiffness of the strut. Seems like most stick with the about 10 clicks for the back and 7 on the driver side and 8 on the passenger side. i'm assuming because of the driver weight.
as far as ride height i've read keeping about 1/2 inch gap in the front and 1/4 gap in the back.
Camber toe caster i'm lost. for camber 1.25-1.5 seems popular
I don't plan on doing this myself, i found a shop locally who seem very good with this type of stuff. They're a suspension and wheel shop.
I would just like to know exactly what they're saying and to be able to agree or dispute they're recommendations since its my car and i like to understand everything 110% before jumping into things.
I'm setting it up for the street. I do plan on road coursing and auto cross it, but i don't want it setup for that since I'm not competitive and dont plan on doing it often.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be great.
Cheers!
4WS!
Just picked up some tein flex and have volk 19 x 8.5 + 36 on the way.
So far i've found a lot of info on setting the stiffness of the strut. Seems like most stick with the about 10 clicks for the back and 7 on the driver side and 8 on the passenger side. i'm assuming because of the driver weight.
as far as ride height i've read keeping about 1/2 inch gap in the front and 1/4 gap in the back.
Camber toe caster i'm lost. for camber 1.25-1.5 seems popular
I don't plan on doing this myself, i found a shop locally who seem very good with this type of stuff. They're a suspension and wheel shop.
I would just like to know exactly what they're saying and to be able to agree or dispute they're recommendations since its my car and i like to understand everything 110% before jumping into things.
I'm setting it up for the street. I do plan on road coursing and auto cross it, but i don't want it setup for that since I'm not competitive and dont plan on doing it often.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be great.
Cheers!
4WS!
#3
Evolving Member
If I were in your shoes, I would get my car set up by Robispec, i.e. corner balancing, and a good race alignment set up
However, in the absence of anything else, get someone to set up the ride height of your coilovers correctly, and run the following camber and toe settings (Evos are not castor adjustable unless your pilo-ball mounts allow so)
-1.5F / -1.2R
0 toe all around
Tire pressure at 32psi cold.
Use that as a starting point and tweak from there depending on how you want your car to handle:
to get more oversteer and/or less understeer, reduce rear negative camber (i.e more upright) and add some toe-out on the rear
However, in the absence of anything else, get someone to set up the ride height of your coilovers correctly, and run the following camber and toe settings (Evos are not castor adjustable unless your pilo-ball mounts allow so)
-1.5F / -1.2R
0 toe all around
Tire pressure at 32psi cold.
Use that as a starting point and tweak from there depending on how you want your car to handle:
to get more oversteer and/or less understeer, reduce rear negative camber (i.e more upright) and add some toe-out on the rear
#4
If I were in your shoes, I would get my car set up by Robispec, i.e. corner balancing, and a good race alignment set up
However, in the absence of anything else, get someone to set up the ride height of your coilovers correctly, and run the following camber and toe settings (Evos are not castor adjustable unless your pilo-ball mounts allow so)
-1.5F / -1.2R
0 toe all around
Tire pressure at 32psi cold.
Use that as a starting point and tweak from there depending on how you want your car to handle:
to get more oversteer and/or less understeer, reduce rear negative camber (i.e more upright) and add some toe-out on the rear
However, in the absence of anything else, get someone to set up the ride height of your coilovers correctly, and run the following camber and toe settings (Evos are not castor adjustable unless your pilo-ball mounts allow so)
-1.5F / -1.2R
0 toe all around
Tire pressure at 32psi cold.
Use that as a starting point and tweak from there depending on how you want your car to handle:
to get more oversteer and/or less understeer, reduce rear negative camber (i.e more upright) and add some toe-out on the rear
sounds like a good start.. I didnt know what to do with toe. would you consider that camber aggresive or street?
Robispec seems to do great autox setups and road course. I would like a great sharp handling car, but i dont want to suffer during the 20k i drive a year for the 2 hours i race my car every year....
Is setting the ride height pretty basic, or is it something i need to search more to make sure theyre not dropping it too low or keeping it too high?
Cheers!
#5
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If I were you I'd call a shop who really knows Evo suspension...AMS, Road Race, or my local favorite Bishop Motorsports. You need to know what you want out of the car, and you should really get it corner balanced...and also lose those 19s
#6
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4WS, Robi will set up the car however you want. Just tell him the plan and it will be done. He comes down every couple months. He set my car up at TSR on Sheridan/441, just watch the SFL region posts. I know from my setup that you want about -2.5 camber front and about -1.2 rear if you want to take those on ramps like a maniac. However, that setup made my advans last about 8K miles.
Sooo....
Toe 0 degrees all around
Caster in the stock position (I forget, but the alignment place should be able to get that right)
Camber is up to you, I like my setup, but you can definitely go less (closer to -1.5f/-1r or even less). If you put 0/0 then you should have great tire wear, but the car will corner like a pig and understeer far worse. It's a balance. I cannot recommend Robi enough, though. Even the alignment/balance alone is an incredible difference. This isn't the computer alignment at the local shop, it's a real racing laser alignment.
Sooo....
Toe 0 degrees all around
Caster in the stock position (I forget, but the alignment place should be able to get that right)
Camber is up to you, I like my setup, but you can definitely go less (closer to -1.5f/-1r or even less). If you put 0/0 then you should have great tire wear, but the car will corner like a pig and understeer far worse. It's a balance. I cannot recommend Robi enough, though. Even the alignment/balance alone is an incredible difference. This isn't the computer alignment at the local shop, it's a real racing laser alignment.
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#8
put stickies on the stockers to deal with the wheels. you dont need the extreme handling of the evo on the street.
id go like -2 in the front -1.2 in the rear but thats just me. My buddy runs -2.9 f and -1.5 r on his impreza and the thing turns on a dime. his tires actually dont wear that bad either.
id go like -2 in the front -1.2 in the rear but thats just me. My buddy runs -2.9 f and -1.5 r on his impreza and the thing turns on a dime. his tires actually dont wear that bad either.
#9
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sounds like a good start.. I didnt know what to do with toe. would you consider that camber aggresive or street?
Robispec seems to do great autox setups and road course. I would like a great sharp handling car, but i dont want to suffer during the 20k i drive a year for the 2 hours i race my car every year....
Is setting the ride height pretty basic, or is it something i need to search more to make sure theyre not dropping it too low or keeping it too high?
Cheers!
Robispec seems to do great autox setups and road course. I would like a great sharp handling car, but i dont want to suffer during the 20k i drive a year for the 2 hours i race my car every year....
Is setting the ride height pretty basic, or is it something i need to search more to make sure theyre not dropping it too low or keeping it too high?
Cheers!
As far as ride height, it's partially a matter of preference. You don't want to go too low because it will compromise your suspension geometry. With the Flexes you just want to make sure that you set the ride height AND the preload correctly, since they are adjustable independent of one another.
-Dan
#10
awesome, thats for the reccomendations i'll be looking more into 0 toe all around and 1.5-2 degrees camber up front and 1 to 1.2 seems to be the vote on the rears.
as far as the rims, i got a crazy deal on the 19's and just love the look of them. theyre pretty light weight so theyll be okay. as far as racing is concerned i'll be getting a set of toyo ra1's to slap on the 17 x 8 rotas. I just would like the best street setup for what's on the car as it is. Not when i pull all the garabage out of the car and put the race wheels on.
I think i know enough to go to a shop now =-) I dont trust peoples reccomendations when theyre taking my money.
Cheers!
as far as the rims, i got a crazy deal on the 19's and just love the look of them. theyre pretty light weight so theyll be okay. as far as racing is concerned i'll be getting a set of toyo ra1's to slap on the 17 x 8 rotas. I just would like the best street setup for what's on the car as it is. Not when i pull all the garabage out of the car and put the race wheels on.
I think i know enough to go to a shop now =-) I dont trust peoples reccomendations when theyre taking my money.
Cheers!
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