I'm running 17x9 + 22 RE30's with 255/35ZR 17 R888's

I ended up cutting the rear fender and rolling them, and after an alignment they don't hit or rub at all, even at the track!

 

Running a 17" will ultimately be lighter, if you compare the weight of going from 17" to 18" on same width (say 17x9 to 18x9), you generally notice about 1lbs in increase. But going from 255/40/17 to 255/35/18 (which is about the same overall size) generally there are no weight differences although theoretically 255/35/18 should weight less due to bigger whole and same tire.

By going 18", you get so much more choices for 10"+ width rims as well as 275+ width tires, where that figures are pretty much the limit for 17" production wheels and tires and available models are limited. It really doesn't matter if you're a casual driver just having fun on track, but when it comes to competition, you want maximum grip and braking force that can fit under any restrictions from the race. Although 2lbs of extra weight on each wheel (from going bigger, having bigger brakes etc) is significant, but worth sacrificing for the grip and braking.

In terms feel, 17" is going to be more forgiving to your bum while 18" going to be more responsive assuming you're using the same overall diameter tires.

In terms of looks, in general the 18"er's on EVO gives more cartoonish menacing looks while not being too 'bling bling', 17" looks adequate but might look a little too small for some people. Of course it'll also be affected by the design of the wheel, usually with spokes stretching all the way to the lip would look a size bigger.

 

Thats incorrect. Add that comment to the false information thread. Just because someone runs their car on a road course, doesnt mean they need a bbk.


That also is incorrect. I think im pretty "super serious" but you dont see me running a bbk.

 

you don't need BBK for road racing. Whoever told you that is an idiot. Evo brakes are enough, only need to change to racing pads. Save your $ and buy suspension, not $4000+ BBK, just for BLING

 

^^^ +1000... said that a page ago. they do look badass though haha

 

Come on guys, please read what I wrote. Why are you making it sound like I said it was mandatory to have a BBK if you road race? I never said that. Read my posts. I was commenting that the only time you would need a BBK is if you race on a road course. You don't need one for daily driving. You don't need one for drag racing. You don't need one for autoX. The only time it makes sense to invest the money in a BBK is if you race on a road course. Buy a BBK for any other use, and you're likely wasting money because you won't really need it. But, it's not mandatory to have a BBK for a road course and I never said it was mandatory. You can get better performance from a BBK, but that's up to the driver to decide if they need it.

 

how big of a spacer up front? and any rubbing? I'm sure you had to roll the fenders, right?

 

Your post was incorrect and misleading. I already noted why. People post incorrect and misleading info, like yours, all the time. Sometimes its minor, sometimes its major. I dont have the time and the energy to respond to every single thread on this forum. But if i do catch something, and feel like responding, i will. Usually, its too much of hassle to try to explain why someone is providing incorrect/misleading info. So i wont bother responding at all. Thats probably the reason why i hit the backspace key often. My advice is, if you dont know what youre talking about, the best thing to do is to not respond. I do that myself all the time.

 

^ Well said

 

There is no spacer up front and there is small one in the rear. I think it was like a 5mm or smaller. Not all evo's will need the rear spacer mine just did. Yes the rears were rolled and the fronts were modded too. If you search under my user name you will see the others pics.

 

If the overall tire diameter remains the same, then this is not the case. But with larger overall diameter, there will be an increase. Not huge, but an increase.

 

And if the psi is the same (I know this also depends on what small percentage the sidewall carries, but lets say it is the same) the contact patch will still be the same, even if the overall diameter is 3 or 4 inches bigger.

 

Well, since you're a know-it-all, please divulge all of your "knowledge" upon us. Or, do your fingers hurt too much to type for us Your "my **** doesn't stink and I know everything" posts are laughable. It's very easy to post "your wrong" but if you can't prove anything you probably should keep to hitting that backspace button you referenced.

Also, you did not "note why" my post was wrong. You posted that you don't need a BBK if you race on a road course. I never said you did need a BBK if you race on a road course. So, it seems we both agree you don't need a BBK if you race on a road course. But, if you want the best possible braking performance on a road course for your Evo, then it's a wise decision to invest in a BBK. And, to restate what I said earlier not all BBK's will fit with 17" rims. Some won't. Some will.

So, to get this back on topic. If you choose to run a BBK on your Evo, please note that not all BBK's will fit with 17" rims. So, you may need to look into 18" rims to run a particular BBK

 

Some people may find that the stock calipers + upgraded pads, lines, rotors and fluids are sufficient for track work but I simply haven't found that to be true in my experience.

I track my car and my setup of PF Direct Drive rotors + PF97 pads + stainless steel lines + RBF600 fluid still gives me fluid fade before the end of a 20 minute race session without fail.

I still need to try adding some brake ducting before I totally write off the potential of the stock setup (just had the AMS kit installed) but in any case I find it misleading to imply that big brake kits are ineffective without having tried one.

It is also incorrect to state that there are no big brake kits for 17 inch wheels - AP Racing in fact have a kit to fit under the stock 17s - part number is CP5555-1032, it's a 6 pot kit that uses a 332mm rotor. That will be my next step if I don't see any improvement from my brake ducting kit.

More on topic, I prefer 17s to 18s in terms of ride and handling. Took me awhile to "downgrade" but from the moment I drove the car with a proper alignment on 17s after driving on 18s for a long time it was looooooooove

Calcutated that I saved about 30 pounds of unsprung weight - 4 x Enkei RPF-1s in 17" at 16.5 lbs each vs. 4 x 5Zigen FN01RCs in 18" at 21 lbs each

 

I would run 18s for the bling factor.