Rear toe maxxed out?
#16
I had the opposite with toe out. After a couple of years of messing with the rear suspension, upgrading ever bushing, coilovers and even changing to a different mustache bar. One day I some how ended up with a EVO that had huge amount of rear positive toe on both sides 3/8 to1/2 inch.With this much toe you would never take in to a track. The car was acually steering with the rear wheels. It was doable with autoX, the worst I could do was spinout.
I tried the dremil action a little but not even close. To get the toe near zero I had to run -2 camber in the rear, but that made the car want to spin outway too easily when auto crossing.
I Finally bit the bullet and bought some used adjustible toe bars to fix the problem. I get free lifetime alighnments with firestone. I have had at least 10 in the last 6000 miles, or 3 years.
I tried the dremil action a little but not even close. To get the toe near zero I had to run -2 camber in the rear, but that made the car want to spin outway too easily when auto crossing.
I Finally bit the bullet and bought some used adjustible toe bars to fix the problem. I get free lifetime alighnments with firestone. I have had at least 10 in the last 6000 miles, or 3 years.
#18
Evolved Member
iTrader: (38)
I had the opposite with toe out. After a couple of years of messing with the rear suspension, upgrading ever bushing, coilovers and even changing to a different mustache bar. One day I some how ended up with a EVO that had huge amount of rear positive toe on both sides 3/8 to1/2 inch.With this much toe you would never take in to a track. The car was acually steering with the rear wheels. It was doable with autoX, the worst I could do was spinout.
I tried the dremil action a little but not even close. To get the toe near zero I had to run -2 camber in the rear, but that made the car want to spin outway too easily when auto crossing.
I Finally bit the bullet and bought some used adjustible toe bars to fix the problem. I get free lifetime alighnments with firestone. I have had at least 10 in the last 6000 miles, or 3 years.
I tried the dremil action a little but not even close. To get the toe near zero I had to run -2 camber in the rear, but that made the car want to spin outway too easily when auto crossing.
I Finally bit the bullet and bought some used adjustible toe bars to fix the problem. I get free lifetime alighnments with firestone. I have had at least 10 in the last 6000 miles, or 3 years.
The best you can do is max-IN the toe with the eccentric bolt on the toe-control arm, then adjust more and more camber until your toe gets close to zero. It will probably take -1.75 to -2.25* of rear camber to get the rear toe to zero. . . this is normal with a severely lowered EVO and can only be "fixed" with adjustable toe-control rods or a rear bump-steer kit with the hole facing "out".
EVOlutionary
#20
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
I am going to bet your rear is pretty low. When you lower the car to a certain point then you start getting a lot of toe-out and you quickly max out the "IN" adjustment for toe.
The best you can do is max-IN the toe with the eccentric bolt on the toe-control arm, then adjust more and more camber until your toe gets close to zero. It will probably take -1.75 to -2.25* of rear camber to get the rear toe to zero. . . this is normal with a severely lowered EVO and can only be "fixed" with adjustable toe-control rods or a rear bump-steer kit with the hole facing "out".
EVOlutionary
The best you can do is max-IN the toe with the eccentric bolt on the toe-control arm, then adjust more and more camber until your toe gets close to zero. It will probably take -1.75 to -2.25* of rear camber to get the rear toe to zero. . . this is normal with a severely lowered EVO and can only be "fixed" with adjustable toe-control rods or a rear bump-steer kit with the hole facing "out".
EVOlutionary
Milburn
#22
Evolved Member
iTrader: (38)
Yes, and vice-versa. TOE "IN" adjustment is what is the limiting factor here.
You can set the toe IN as far as you can and if you try to run ZERO camber you will have a ton of toe out. You have to dial in Negative camber until your TOE setting is where you want it. . .
If you try to set camber at -0.5* or -1* there is not enough TOE IN adjustment to get the toe to appropriate levels. . .
How else can I explain it?
You can set the toe IN as far as you can and if you try to run ZERO camber you will have a ton of toe out. You have to dial in Negative camber until your TOE setting is where you want it. . .
If you try to set camber at -0.5* or -1* there is not enough TOE IN adjustment to get the toe to appropriate levels. . .
How else can I explain it?
#24
Evolved Member
I do alignments as part of my job. I've done countless Evo alignments now. Evos have a problem with getting the rear toe in spec if they're lowered. The original poster's comment about the tech telling him about the eccentric bolt is right. It's an oblong bolt that moves the arm in or out. For some reason, when an evo is lowered, the bolt bottoms out long before you can get the toe in spec. Most of the time it's toe out.
You can fix this problem with the whiteline bumpsteer bushings. They should start calling those things toe correction bushings. If you have a toe out problem, install the bushing with the offset hole more towards the inside, so it basically acts as another eccentric.
Another thing you could do is to adjust the camber to the -1.1 to -1.3 range before trying to adjust the toe. Usually this also helps. But the more alignments I do on these cars, they more I'm starting to realize that they are all different in the rear. I don't know why, but they just are.
You can fix this problem with the whiteline bumpsteer bushings. They should start calling those things toe correction bushings. If you have a toe out problem, install the bushing with the offset hole more towards the inside, so it basically acts as another eccentric.
Another thing you could do is to adjust the camber to the -1.1 to -1.3 range before trying to adjust the toe. Usually this also helps. But the more alignments I do on these cars, they more I'm starting to realize that they are all different in the rear. I don't know why, but they just are.
#25
With my toe out problem, it could be because it is lowered, I am running 18x9.5 27 offset NT03 wheels with 285/30 Kumhos, It does not seem that lowered with those tires sticking out.
Also the bump steer kit would not help with mine, because the inner side of the stock bar was making contact with the body, after I tried to get some more adjustment range after I dremeled the mounting holes.You guy all make sense about Evo alighnments, everyone seems to different when you start modifying them.
Good thing there are adjustable toe rods. I could almost assemble a pair if it were not for the ball joint connection, the tapperd side fits into the outer spindle(I think that what it is called)
I Bought a set of used toe bars recently, the spherical joints were worn,(seller said they were good,F#@ looser) Luckly easy to find replacements.
Also the bump steer kit would not help with mine, because the inner side of the stock bar was making contact with the body, after I tried to get some more adjustment range after I dremeled the mounting holes.You guy all make sense about Evo alighnments, everyone seems to different when you start modifying them.
Good thing there are adjustable toe rods. I could almost assemble a pair if it were not for the ball joint connection, the tapperd side fits into the outer spindle(I think that what it is called)
I Bought a set of used toe bars recently, the spherical joints were worn,(seller said they were good,F#@ looser) Luckly easy to find replacements.
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