Just had Ferodo DS2500's put on all the way around and (I think) I bedded them properly.
I don't have access to an airstrip or race track so I drove with 2 feet for 20 miles @ highway speeds for 20 miles or so.
4 seconds braking, 4 to 8 seconds rest; repeated over the entire drive. I gotta figure the brakes got up to operating temperature.
The pads still squeal *LOUDLY* when coming to a stop under light brake pressure. They stop very well though.
How do you know when you've bedded them? Is there some sort of visual indication?
If it's not a bedding problem, how do you make the squeal go away?
I don't know (but I would assume) that the shop re-used the existing OEM pad shims.
Thanks!
I don't have access to an airstrip or race track so I drove with 2 feet for 20 miles @ highway speeds for 20 miles or so.
4 seconds braking, 4 to 8 seconds rest; repeated over the entire drive. I gotta figure the brakes got up to operating temperature.
The pads still squeal *LOUDLY* when coming to a stop under light brake pressure. They stop very well though.
How do you know when you've bedded them? Is there some sort of visual indication?
If it's not a bedding problem, how do you make the squeal go away?
I don't know (but I would assume) that the shop re-used the existing OEM pad shims.
Thanks!
Evolving Member
I know there are some threads on here that will give you more specific information but when i did mine, I made 3 or 4 stops from 40 mph to 5 mph and then two or three from 60 mph to full stop then i let the car sit until the brakes cooled. I have had zero sqeeking issues since then.
Quote:
I may have to do that - thanks for the tip.Originally Posted by mdinubil
I know there are some threads on here that will give you more specific information but when i did mine, I made 3 or 4 stops from 40 mph to 5 mph and then two or three from 60 mph to full stop then i let the car sit until the brakes cooled. I have had zero sqeeking issues since then.
The instructions that came w/ the Ferodo pads say to do 25 to 30 (!) stops at 50% of "race pedal pressure."
I'm sure I did more than that as the drive was 30 min ea way.
Evolved Member
fwiw i run the same pads and stopping is embarassing sometimes with how loud they are, esp. when the brakes are cold or very dusty. i try to rebed them per their instructions but i think its just the pad itself is pretty loud.
also, im not sure if my shop that did my brakes reused the stock shims either.
also, im not sure if my shop that did my brakes reused the stock shims either.
Evolved Member
There are diffrent companys that make some anti squeek lube. If you have a air compressior try blowing them off and heat them up again.
Evolved Member
Go to Stoptech's site - they have a white paper on the procedure. Whatever you did doesn't sound right, but....
I've been using 2500's for a long time with no squeal; both for DD and weekend track days.
I've been using 2500's for a long time with no squeal; both for DD and weekend track days.
Evolved Member
When I replaced my pads with HPS all the way around I got the squeal for a few weeks now its gone and braking is awesome.
As for bedding in your fine...I usually got 40mph do light stops and go a lil faster and increase brake pressure...then I go again really hard then drive around for 20 mins or so to cool down.
As for bedding in your fine...I usually got 40mph do light stops and go a lil faster and increase brake pressure...then I go again really hard then drive around for 20 mins or so to cool down.
Evolved Member
Your initial description sounds more of a glazing procedure than bedding in...sorry.
You should do what the instructions tell you. Dragging the brakes at highway speeds is not the same as stopping at 50% capability back to back.
I usually go on a regular road when no one is on it. get up to 40-50, come to almost a stop and repeat until I start to feel the brakes fading, smoke becomes visible from the front wheels and you can start to smell a pad stench. This takes about 10 repeats. I then turn around, try not to use my brakes while putting around for another 5-10 mins to cool things off (to avoid warping) and let the car sit overnight. Next day, the pads are nice and grippy. With my HPS pads, I usually have to do this every few months, as the pad transfer gets scraped off during regular traffic driving where I don't use my brakes hard enough.
You should do what the instructions tell you. Dragging the brakes at highway speeds is not the same as stopping at 50% capability back to back.
I usually go on a regular road when no one is on it. get up to 40-50, come to almost a stop and repeat until I start to feel the brakes fading, smoke becomes visible from the front wheels and you can start to smell a pad stench. This takes about 10 repeats. I then turn around, try not to use my brakes while putting around for another 5-10 mins to cool things off (to avoid warping) and let the car sit overnight. Next day, the pads are nice and grippy. With my HPS pads, I usually have to do this every few months, as the pad transfer gets scraped off during regular traffic driving where I don't use my brakes hard enough.
Quote:
You should do what the instructions tell you. Dragging the brakes at highway speeds is not the same as stopping at 50% capability back to back.
I usually go on a regular road when no one is on it. get up to 40-50, come to almost a stop and repeat until I start to feel the brakes fading, smoke becomes visible from the front wheels and you can start to smell a pad stench. This takes about 10 repeats. I then turn around, try not to use my brakes while putting around for another 5-10 mins to cool things off (to avoid warping) and let the car sit overnight. Next day, the pads are nice and grippy. With my HPS pads, I usually have to do this every few months, as the pad transfer gets scraped off during regular traffic driving where I don't use my brakes hard enough.
That's kind of what I had surmised and was a little afraid of. I'll redo the bedding properly. In the meantime, I'll squeak by. Originally Posted by xtnct
Your initial description sounds more of a glazing procedure than bedding in...sorry.You should do what the instructions tell you. Dragging the brakes at highway speeds is not the same as stopping at 50% capability back to back.
I usually go on a regular road when no one is on it. get up to 40-50, come to almost a stop and repeat until I start to feel the brakes fading, smoke becomes visible from the front wheels and you can start to smell a pad stench. This takes about 10 repeats. I then turn around, try not to use my brakes while putting around for another 5-10 mins to cool things off (to avoid warping) and let the car sit overnight. Next day, the pads are nice and grippy. With my HPS pads, I usually have to do this every few months, as the pad transfer gets scraped off during regular traffic driving where I don't use my brakes hard enough.

Quote:
You should do what the instructions tell you. Dragging the brakes at highway speeds is not the same as stopping at 50% capability back to back.
I usually go on a regular road when no one is on it. get up to 40-50, come to almost a stop and repeat until I start to feel the brakes fading, smoke becomes visible from the front wheels and you can start to smell a pad stench. This takes about 10 repeats. I then turn around, try not to use my brakes while putting around for another 5-10 mins to cool things off (to avoid warping) and let the car sit overnight. Next day, the pads are nice and grippy. With my HPS pads, I usually have to do this every few months, as the pad transfer gets scraped off during regular traffic driving where I don't use my brakes hard enough.
I went out and bedded as Ferodo recommended (approx 25 50% stops) and there is (I think) a visible layer of pad on the discs now; it's appears to be visible with the naked eye as being thicker than the rest of the disc.Originally Posted by xtnct
Your initial description sounds more of a glazing procedure than bedding in...sorry.You should do what the instructions tell you. Dragging the brakes at highway speeds is not the same as stopping at 50% capability back to back.
I usually go on a regular road when no one is on it. get up to 40-50, come to almost a stop and repeat until I start to feel the brakes fading, smoke becomes visible from the front wheels and you can start to smell a pad stench. This takes about 10 repeats. I then turn around, try not to use my brakes while putting around for another 5-10 mins to cool things off (to avoid warping) and let the car sit overnight. Next day, the pads are nice and grippy. With my HPS pads, I usually have to do this every few months, as the pad transfer gets scraped off during regular traffic driving where I don't use my brakes hard enough.
The rears have the same thing, but not as much of a thickness differential.
The noise has abated by probably 50% to 75% but is still present.
Any other ideas?
Quote:
Same here. Very very rarely get a squeal. I bet the shop didn't use any lube on the shims. I think this is what I used on the shims, can't remember exactly:Originally Posted by meanmud
I've been using 2500's for a long time with no squeal; both for DD and weekend track days.
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ne_Formula.htm
Lastly, the pads are extremely easy to change on our cars, I'd recommend doing it yourself next time!
Quote:
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ne_Formula.htm
Lastly, the pads are extremely easy to change on our cars, I'd recommend doing it yourself next time!
Thanks - I'll probably do that. I had the shop flush and replace the brake fluid at the same time (which is why they did the pads). I wasn't comfortable doing the brake fluid myself.Originally Posted by spdracerut
Same here. Very very rarely get a squeal. I bet the shop didn't use any lube on the shims. I think this is what I used on the shims, can't remember exactly:http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ne_Formula.htm
Lastly, the pads are extremely easy to change on our cars, I'd recommend doing it yourself next time!

