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Brake failure/ first track day with the Evo

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Old Jun 15, 2009, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jid2
$225 per rotor, that includes hardware. If you send your stuff back to Girodisc they will rebuild them for you fo free.
Given that those are pretty pricey as rotors go (I got all four of my blanks for 220) do you feel they are justified for their cost? Even ignoring their performance for dollar ratio, do they offer a noticeable increase in performance?
Old Jun 16, 2009, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Protostar1
Today was the first day my baby saw some track time. I knew the car handled great, but I was astounded by its agility. Something I was less pleased with was the brakes. After about 6 hard laps (8 total w/ warmup) my brake fade changed to brake failure. Pedal to the floor, completely unresponsive. Luckily I figured this out after slowing down some and then downshifted to a point I could use the e-brake. Having to use your e-brake to actually perform a stop was a little interesting... Looks like the fluid boiled and the pads overheated. I knew that fade was an issue on the stock brembos, but after 6 hard laps I am a little surprised by the brakes failing, to say the least. Now that the fluid is boiled and the brakes are not up to my needs, Im asking the community for recommendations on fluids, pads, and a good set of brake ducts.

My current plan is Castrol SRF fluid, Ferodo Pads (DS-2500?) or Hawk HP+, and AMS brake duct cooling kit.

Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance!
I have a completely stock car. I hate the stock brake setup. I have never tracked the car, but I drive it hard. I experience brake fade after applying the brakes hard just a few times. I am in the process of re-finishing the calipers, running steel lines and Motul fluid and new pads. I do not know what pads I am going to run yet, but i will let you know how this works for me.
Good luck.
Old Jun 16, 2009, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Protostar1
Given that those are pretty pricey as rotors go (I got all four of my blanks for 220) do you feel they are justified for their cost? Even ignoring their performance for dollar ratio, do they offer a noticeable increase in performance?
You can't separate the performance from the cost, kinda. The performance comes from curved vaned rotors being able to cool better than pillar vane rotors. Until Girodisc released their new curved vane cast rotors a few weeks ago there was no option outside of 2 piece rotors. Even then the floating 2 piece design runs cooler.

For me I was ready to make the jump to a braking solution long term. I wanted something that could handle as much braking as I ever wanted to throw at them. I didn't want to second guess or "fiddle" with less effective setups. This setup gets me there. The only other option is the cast directional vane rotors Girodisc just released, they are $300 for the set. So after the initial "buy-in" it costs $150 more per rotor set to run the 2 piece. That gets you 8 lbs less rotating mass and improved cooling.

For me it's worth it. I'm trying to put the best parts on the car and avoid needing to upgrade them later, as long as the cost isn't unreasonable (Voltex).
Old Jun 16, 2009, 01:34 PM
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A quality investment in the brake setup is well worth it. You can always go fast, just make sure you can always stop. Especially at the track.
Old Jun 19, 2009, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jid2
You can't separate the performance from the cost, kinda. The performance comes from curved vaned rotors being able to cool better than pillar vane rotors. Until Girodisc released their new curved vane cast rotors a few weeks ago there was no option outside of 2 piece rotors. Even then the floating 2 piece design runs cooler.

For me I was ready to make the jump to a braking solution long term. I wanted something that could handle as much braking as I ever wanted to throw at them. I didn't want to second guess or "fiddle" with less effective setups. This setup gets me there. The only other option is the cast directional vane rotors Girodisc just released, they are $300 for the set. So after the initial "buy-in" it costs $150 more per rotor set to run the 2 piece. That gets you 8 lbs less rotating mass and improved cooling.

For me it's worth it. I'm trying to put the best parts on the car and avoid needing to upgrade them later, as long as the cost isn't unreasonable (Voltex).
I feel ya, I hate the fiddling part but its usually a result of me not wanting to drop huge stacks of cash... I really wanted to just skip to the end with a BBK! Do you feel that because they cool better, they will last you longer? If they last only as long as a set of cheap blanks and really don't provide a huge boost in braking ability or fade resistance, they loose a lot of their appeal. I keep asking because a while back I was very intent on getting two piece rotors and Smike's opinions eventually steered me away.
Old Jun 20, 2009, 07:58 AM
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I would like to have a really good thread for race pads. We need a chart for how much they cost, how quickly they wear, ect. I would like before and after pictures of pads say after a weekend at the track. The last set I bought only lasted me a weekend. I am looking for a better pad at the track and long lasting is my main concern. I am running stock, with street tires and brake ducts.
Old Jun 20, 2009, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by anthony_86gt
I would like to have a really good thread for race pads. We need a chart for how much they cost, how quickly they wear, ect. I would like before and after pictures of pads say after a weekend at the track. The last set I bought only lasted me a weekend. I am looking for a better pad at the track and long lasting is my main concern. I am running stock, with street tires and brake ducts.
One weekend?? That is shocking, how many sessions/ hours on the track? What were they?

I love my HT10s. I have now two track days on them (admittedly today's was light) but the pads are running great, I am pretty sure I have not worn a ton on them and the rotors look great. I am still running PFZ rears FYI.
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