I have read a bunch of the threads about the wheel studs breaking, and am surprised at what seems like so many folks having this problem. I am just trying to find the reasons though, because it seems too common.

What is the exact torque spec for a 9MR, stock everything, for the lugs?

I was using 70 lbs on the torque wrench. I was simply cleaning the wheels thoroughly by taking them off and inspecting various lose plastic bits in the wheel well. I have a, new to me, used, 9mr and am dealing with all the little things not properly maintained. however I keep going backwards. Tonight I was simply doing oil and plugs and this cleaning and now I have 2 broken lugs?

The wheels seated fine, and the other lugs went on easy. Everything by hand, fingers, and then torque to 70. What is the deal? This car only has 7k miles on it, and should it be normal to have several failing lugs?

I can replace the studs, but the whole thing seems weird. Am I doing something wrong? I noticed the stock MR wheels didn't have the cone shaped spacer I was expecting on the back of the wheel. Lots of other little things are missing on this car, so could that be the problem?

Why are so many of us breaking wheels studs?
I had a WRX in the brutal winters of Boston for 7 years and never broke a stud. What gives?

M

 

Wrong area but mitz studs are real weak , when i got my car i also broke a couple studs
so its better to check the torque before so you wont break anymore

 

OK, What is the correct area/forum?

What is the correct torque spec?
Are the MR studs different than the non MR. They seem to be made of 2 different materials.
Are the plastic hub centering pieces necessary on the MR stock wheels, and therefore I am missing them? OR are they not necessary.

The torque wrench is accurate +- 5lbs.

Thanks

 

Don't know about the spacers or type of lug nuts but it's always a good idea to use a bit of anti-seize when you torque the nuts.

 

They should not have broken at 70 ft lbs usually we torque them to 80-85ish. That is very strange and I don't see what would have caused it unless you came right off the racetrack and torqued them down wayy too tight.

 

Nope I haven't tracked the car yet, but that is where its going. I am replacing my WRX with this EVO, but need to learn the car and its mechanicals first. (so I don't get stranded at the track.......again)

This lug thing has me a little worried, because if one of those fails at 100 or at a 50mph corner I've got some real problems.

I replaced the 2 studs easy enough tonight. Just used pep boys bolts for now. I only torqued down to 60, and if you use just feel, the 60 feels lower than 60, but definitely not more.

I was hoping for a bigger picture issue, like I was mounting the wheels incorrectly or some other weird hub centric no no that I was committing.

Thanks for any comments.

M

 

Should be Tq to 80 ft/lbs. Also if you are concerned replace them with ARP's.

 

Wheel nut 98 ± 10 N⋅m (73 ± 7 ft-lb)

Don't torque them when their hot but use some anti seize for sure, on the threads and between the nut and wheel. I've had trouble with a few studs spinning in the hub but never broke one,,,,, yet.

 

With the MR wheels, make sure you tighten all the lugs on hand tight before you torque. If you fully tighten one, then torue it without any other lugs on, the rest wont be aligned right. That might be your problem if thats what you are doing.

I had an 8 MR, and never broke a stud. Get ARP studs and forget it.