Best way to deal with spinning wheel studs???
#1
Best way to deal with spinning wheel studs???
So I don't know exactly why but when I was removing my front right wheel today, two of the five wheel studs ended up spinning...
I tried drilling through the lug nut and then through the stud to remove one of them, but the wheel stud seems too strong.. I'm using a cobalt 1/4" drill bit. Is the trick to just drill out the lug nut? Do I just need a bigger drill bit?
I also tried remove the other 3 lug nuts and then letting the weight from the car hold the stud in place. It seems to hold the stud in place, but then when I attempt to remove the lug it spins as if it's cross-threaded...
Pleased help...
Is my hub in danger of being damaged?
#5
EvoM Guru
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Best way to deal with spinning wheel studs???
When I worked at discount tire, we just pull the wheel out so it was pulling on the stud and nut, and hit it with impact. I was never not able to get one off. Eventually the stud or nut fails.
You won't damage the hub, they are a FAR harder steel than the stud..
You won't damage the hub, they are a FAR harder steel than the stud..
#6
EvoM Community Team Leader
a trick that has worked for me is to slide a jigsaw metal cutting blade between the wheel and the hub against the spinning stud. Then while applying pressure to the blade hit the nut with a wrench (impact would probably be fastest) and the turning motion will cause the blade to cut through the stud.
#7
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Ive had this happen to me when I had my evo mr. I did exactly what you did which was to drill through the lug nut and then used a bigger bit to drill through threads of the lug nut and stud until the lug nut threads were pretty much gone. Once that happened, I used a punch and hammer and punched the stud to back it out. It took me probably about 4 hours to get that one stud and I went through multiple bits while using water to cool the bits down. GL, its a PITA
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#9
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Best way to deal with spinning wheel studs???
When you get it back. Put a touch of anti seize on all of the studs to prevent this in the future..
#10
I torque the lugs to spec which should prevent this from happening. I'm reading that the stock stud threads may be weak?
When I was last putting on these wheels something happened that definitely should have foreshadowed this predicament. It's hard to explain but this is the sequence of events:
- I was tightening the lugs in the star pattern
- Everything looked to be going fine (looking from the top, the wheel was coming closer and closer to the hub)
- Then out of nowhere as I was tightening one of the lugs, the wheel just sort of pop off the hub and was now very far away from the hub looking from the top
- I thought I was following the star pattern so I have no idea how this happened, but I'm guessing this pop cross threaded a bunch of the studs...
Stuff like this is very frustrating when you try to the right thing (spend lots of money on good torque wrenches, take your time, etc..) and **** just fails..
Is it possible that after 10 years the studs just degrade? I do most of the work myself but shops have touched it. So I have no idea what they were doing when they were putting the wheels back on..
Last edited by Kreeker; Aug 24, 2015 at 09:09 AM.
#11
Evolved Member
The FSM states to install the lug nuts dry and that is what I do. If you did a survey here I think you will find that about half the owners here lubricate the threads. It doesn't seen to cause a problem.
As you say, cross threading is probably the cause of the problem. I'd want any cross threaded stud replaced - no thread chasing. To avoid cross threading screw the lug nuts on by hand at least a few threads.
As you say, cross threading is probably the cause of the problem. I'd want any cross threaded stud replaced - no thread chasing. To avoid cross threading screw the lug nuts on by hand at least a few threads.
#14
So $285, 5 new studs and 5 new lugs later, this is the state of my wheel...
This is what it started out like:
They ended up having to use a torch.
I expected more from professionals..
I didn't ask, but I don't understand why they didn't drill it out..
The shop that did this:
Caliber Tire And Auto Service
174 S Main St, New City, NY 10956
This is what it started out like:
They ended up having to use a torch.
I expected more from professionals..
I didn't ask, but I don't understand why they didn't drill it out..
The shop that did this:
Caliber Tire And Auto Service
174 S Main St, New City, NY 10956
Last edited by Kreeker; Aug 25, 2015 at 04:14 AM.
#15
EvoM Guru
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I wouldn't run that wheel. Aluminum doesn't play well with heat (torches)...