Hey guys-

I am replacing my outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints with the Whiteline KCA395 Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit.

Getting the tie rod ends off hasn't been too much of a problem. I have one off now, the other just needs a little heat and should pop right off.

I am not sure how to tackle replacing the lower ball joints though. I have been looking around to see if there are tools made to remove them (besides a press).


I have found a few different tools to remove the ball joints. There are front end service kits (http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Au...nt/KD41690.htm) and pitman arm pullers (http://www.autozone.com/R,2125608/st...ductDetail.htm).



1) Any idea what size of an arm puller I need and/or any better ideas on how I can remove the ball joints.

2) Any idea how I can put my new ones ball joints in, do I need to use a press?



Thanks!



-Bink

 

I bang on the stud with an air hammer, with the nut still installed but loose. Anything else always breaks the rubber dust boot.

 

I've seen an arbor press used to get them out. But be care ful not to damage the arm.

 

Just pull the whole arm off and use a good press to get the old unit out and the new one in, it will go much faster and smoother. I believe the Whiteline kit comes with a new boot, but we never had trouble damaging the old boot, just pop it off first before pressing the ball joint out. Don't forget to take the snap ring off before pressing the ball joint out.

-Bill@WORKS

 

Follow Works advice, it is not worth the hastle of playing around with it. Trust me, I just did it, and am one of those super ignorant people that likes to do everything myself, and this is one in hindsight I would just take it to a shop and have someone else press them out, and put the new ones in. Everything else I did myself.

 

On my other cars (Z, vette, ranger, DSM) I've always used a pickle fork. Is that not an acceptable way on an Evo?

 

This is exactly what I did. But note the following:

1) The outer edge of the arm is a thin piece of aluminium and sometimes when pressing the balljoint, it will seperate. Its not a huge deal, I just cut mine off.

2) The c-clip provided with the whiteline is quite a bit thicker and designed to fit very snugly. You may have to slightly sand the arm or use a dremel to take off a little bit to make that ring fit snug. CONFIRM that the c-ring is on completely as this could cause a very serious accident later on.

3) When pressing the whiteline BJ (uh huh uh - I said BJ) back in, make sure to use a socket large enough so you don't press the inside of the joint accidentally. They are known to be quite frail.

4) Make sure to fill the the whiteline bj boot with grease and tap it on using a socket or something else making sure it clips in. I used a ginormo socket from a front end service kit

5) Make sure you line up the balljoint and knuckle so the bolt slides in all the way and in the correct way. People don't realize there is only one way and try to bash the bolt and nut in and again, if installed incorrectly, it could pop off. Happened to someone on here.

Hope this helps!

PS - I used the mitsu ball joint seperator tool on tie rods and balljoints. It works great and is pictured in the FSM. It does push some grease out of the bj's, but not enough to warrant pulling bot off and re-packing with grease.

 

Pickle forks can tear boots easily and also cause excessive grease to come out, I felt it was much too barbaric a tool to be used on the balljoints...

 

If you're replacing the end/joint and boot anyway, what's the harm?

And frankly after having to use a 5# sledge with a picklefork on both my '70 240z and '72 corvette, I can't imagine how big a press I would have needed to pop them loose otherwise!

30+ years of rust does incredible things to nuts and bolts!

 

Sorry - I meant, in general, when replacing axles. With the whiteline RCE kit, I suppose that would work...

We used a cheap *** $100 harbor freight press to do ever bushing in my Evo

 

Ah, hehe...

 

Yeah,
As far as separating the ball joint initially I would say a pickle fork is fine if you are replacing the boot. Actually I've watched a lot of dealer mechanics and they just take a good heavy mallet and whack the side of the coupler that the ball joint end fits through (after the pinch bolt is out of course. This by itself usually loosens things up enough to separate the ball joint assembly. This trick works on old cars and especially on ball joints with a tapered fit. Its the first thing I do on old Alfa's and MGB's when I'm working on them, you still might need a pickle fork or ball joint separator but it makes it a lot easier. But when it comes time to getting the ball joint out of the suspension arm use a press.


-Bill@WORKS

 

Thanks for all of the replies everyone!

I guess your right, I will just take the lower control arms off and have someone press out the old ball joints and press in the new ball joints.


Thanks for the extra info! I appreciate it!


I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes



-Bink

 

Great info.. I will be coming back to this at some time or another.

 

Well...

I can't get the lower control arm off. I have gotten one bolt out (the one more towards the rear of the car) and I have disconnected the sway bar. I CANNOT for the life of me get the front bolt out. I have tried a 1/2" breaker bar with a 24" pipe as an extension. I am literally standing on the extension, I don't want to snap the bolt off inside the sub frame. I have tried PB Blaster and a little heat using some mapp gas, but you can't give it to much heat because the control arm has rubber bushings.

Any ideas??


I am considering just putting everything back together (except for the outer tie rod ends, I can do those myself) and just bringing it to a shop to do the lower ball joints.


-Bink