What's good alignment spec for stock ix mr? The car is a DD.

 

Good deal. We're lucky (or unlucky from a business standpoint) in our area as there are a lot of performance shops that get you the exact specs you want for an alignment, and if something is wrong, they'll show you instead of make stuff up on the spot.

- andrew

 

I went ahead and took some pics.. Hopefully I have the right bolts in the right places, and they just need to be turned or whatever....

Right side:





Left side:





How's it look?? I can't really spot the arrows...

 

Just a heads up. The caster isn't that big of an issue. Sometimes the caster from the factory will be different to make up for road crown. Your camber if you haven't had it fixed yet may not be able to be adjusted to the full -2 camber. If the car is lowered it can compromise how much you can adjust the camber. I'm not defending the shop but I've ran into issues like this before but I've been doing alignments for a long time now.

 

Right side is definitely off -- the top bolt should be on one of the flat sides. Right now the flat sides are left/right rather than up/down.

Try feeling with your nail - there is a mark on it. Put some paint on it when you find it.

 

You have your bolt on so that it's point inwards toward the body. So you're getting the -1° camber as mentioned above. The yellow dot denotes the arrow on the bolt. You want it pointing away from the shock/body of the car. That's how you'll get the -1.8° I was able to attain.

-Jalal

 

Like Mike said, your passenger side has the arrow facing upwards.

Also.... Macro Mode is your friend!!!



-Jalal

 

Awesome!! - I was worried I put the top eccentric bolts in the bottom or something, since I put the struts in myself. Tires Plus lied to my face after all

Thanks guys, I'll def be having a better shop redo the alignment!

LOL sorry

 

Hmmm....well here's the thing. The Bilstein HDs give you a more neg camber on the lower setting. So if you do use the other setting you'll likely be sitting at more than -2 and the initial way you had it might be the way to go for your uses.

Smike correct me if I'm wrong. I can't quite remember what ended up happening with your struts.

Also, Meevo, did you get the H1 or H0 Bilsteins?

- Andrew

 

Hmm - I don't remember which one it was, but I asked right before I bought them from you guys, and you said it was the newer ones - I'm assuming the newer ones are H1?

:edit: the newer ones are H1 - how do I check to be certain?

:edit: once again - I checked the bottom of the boxes - "F4-VE3-B843-H1" =]

 

The -1 camber bolt gave me -1.6 to -1.7 on my setup.

 

Very good you got the H1's

Well in that case....you may just want to leave it where it is. It's not that far down from -1.8, and you'll likely have a **** ton more if you switch to the other setting, more than you want for the street.

- Andrew

 

If I'm going to be doing a ton of autocrossing do you think i should just go ahead and run a more negative camber anyway?

 

You'll have a little more tire wear if you DD on the highway a lot, but with 0 toe it won't be that bad. It will make a very noticeable change for the better in terms of performance. So if you're autocrssoing a lot then I say go for it!

Let us know how much camber you end up with.

- andrew

 

Do you guys still recommend -1.0 degrees camber in the rear for autocross, or is it the more the better? Thanks