View Poll Results: Which would you chose...?
Cusco Zero2R



19
42.22%
Tein RA



6
13.33%
JIC - FLTA2



20
44.44%
Voters: 45. You may not vote on this poll
Looking for people with upper end coilover experience...
Re: FLTA2 RS
Originally posted by ESCALVANTE
Has anyone inquired about the JIC FLTA2-RS? Customized spring rates but are they revalved for more aggressive driving?
Anyone know the cost on those?
Why doesn't RRE use the RSs? Is it because they have more experience with the regular FLTA2s or because that's just what their customers request?
Has anyone inquired about the JIC FLTA2-RS? Customized spring rates but are they revalved for more aggressive driving?
Anyone know the cost on those?
Why doesn't RRE use the RSs? Is it because they have more experience with the regular FLTA2s or because that's just what their customers request?
Last edited by FT@SELGP; Nov 18, 2003 at 07:38 PM.
Hey Diesel, I'm with the DMS Americas, the new factory licensed service and sales facility in Austin, TX. Please let me know if I can answer any questions for you on DMS. We are stocking sets, spares and our tooling to do complete insert rebuilds is being installed by Jamie Drummond next week. Let me know if I can help.
Originally posted by steve_evo
Which of these coilovers actually have good shocks.
<snip>
I would think the Ohlins would ride great based on the motorcycle stuff... but then again so does showa...
It's all in the valving...
Which of these coilovers actually have good shocks.
<snip>
I would think the Ohlins would ride great based on the motorcycle stuff... but then again so does showa...
It's all in the valving...
...can't comment on the other two.
Note - the Zero-2R is an extremely stiff coilover. Great for circuit racing on slicks, nasty and jittery on the street. (I'd recommend the Zero-2 as an outstanding 'compromise' coilover if you want performance on less than perfect surfaces... use anti-roll bars and chassis braces to give rigidity if needed.)
the only difference between the 2 and the 2R would be the inverted tubes on the 2R's... and i didn't think that would make much a difference except that in extreme conditions it could keep the damper cooler better than the standard mount...
Just thought I'd share some pics of some Zeal S6's that I put on my ITR.
Full aluminum bodied coil over. However, I think valving and spring rates are different for the Evo so I no use saying. The dampening adjustment system is quick and extremely easy. 6 settings is plenty, and I'd say anymore is a waste.
Last edited by e8; Nov 19, 2003 at 01:00 PM.
Originally posted by Diesel
the only difference between the 2 and the 2R would be the inverted tubes on the 2R's... and i didn't think that would make much a difference except that in extreme conditions it could keep the damper cooler better than the standard mount...
the only difference between the 2 and the 2R would be the inverted tubes on the 2R's... and i didn't think that would make much a difference except that in extreme conditions it could keep the damper cooler better than the standard mount...
...so what you're saying is:"The only difference is the damper".
You're quite correct. It is a completely different design to the 'non-inverted' unit, and has been valved specifically for circuit work almost exclusively.
(don't make the mistake of thinking that the damper isn't THE most important part of a vehicles suspension... Ohlins/Proflex and to a slightly lesser degree DMS/KYB/Zeel/etc, do not have good reputations because they use good springs, or good exterior shells..... They're the best because they have the best dampers.)
Of course, 'best' will be a combination of many factors like adjustability, reliability, durability, etc.
For the record, I have Zero-2's in my Evo 6. I considered getting the 2R, but my car is only used approximately 10% on the track, and the remainder on the street. And after 'test driving' a couple of other cars (albeit different makes) on Zero-2's and Zero-2R's, I opted for the less extreme option.
Good luck with your purchase!
(but in my opinion - replace the bushes first with Gp. N spec (or urethane) items, then upgrade BOTH anti roll bars (doing only one is just going to unbalance things), similarly with strut bracing, and then upgrade your suspension struts.)
just to beat a dead horse.....
Does anyone have the part numbers for the Ohlins/Moton/JRZ/Proflex/Protrac triple adjustable, remote res shocks
The application is for the track.
Also can someone supply me with the stock spring rates for the Evo 8
Thanks
looking at buying one as a 90% track car.
Does anyone have the part numbers for the Ohlins/Moton/JRZ/Proflex/Protrac triple adjustable, remote res shocks
The application is for the track.
Also can someone supply me with the stock spring rates for the Evo 8
Thanks
looking at buying one as a 90% track car.
More settings on a shock doesn't mean it's a better shock, look at Koni's top of the line shock (2812) which is about $1k per corner (without springs) and has only 8 positions of adjustment.
What matters is how the adjustments affect the the nature of the car and how well they match the springs, and what application it suits.
This is why these Japanese shock companies use 15-30 position, because there is no perfect position for a specific application. These coilovers are meant to do many things (street, autox, track, drag).
This to me is useless, how will I ever pinpoint a good setting without any reputable knowledge base and testing and knowing that these companies intend these systems to be used for a multitude of scenarios.. it's crazy.
The best thing to do is to find someone that has either found the right setting, I believe this RRE guy has done that with JIC coilovers, and try that.
Otherwise unless you work with the shock company or distributor directly (like Koni/bilstein/penske/moton)...
What matters is how the adjustments affect the the nature of the car and how well they match the springs, and what application it suits.
This is why these Japanese shock companies use 15-30 position, because there is no perfect position for a specific application. These coilovers are meant to do many things (street, autox, track, drag).
This to me is useless, how will I ever pinpoint a good setting without any reputable knowledge base and testing and knowing that these companies intend these systems to be used for a multitude of scenarios.. it's crazy.
The best thing to do is to find someone that has either found the right setting, I believe this RRE guy has done that with JIC coilovers, and try that.
Otherwise unless you work with the shock company or distributor directly (like Koni/bilstein/penske/moton)...
I'm coming from a different world i guess. my last car used 3-way moton's (high/low compression settings) and was interested in a similiar setup for the EVO. in the high end 911 world this is pretty comman stuff (expensive though) and normally required about 3 days at the track in a non-DE setting (too many people too short of runs) to set up properly. I already have a query into Penske about this. These will have to be custom made.
As i stated above i will be using the car 90%+ on the track and the rest is limited highway miles (think One lap of America and your there) basically i'll drive it to the track and back. But either way i am very interested in being able to tune the setup.
As i stated above i will be using the car 90%+ on the track and the rest is limited highway miles (think One lap of America and your there) basically i'll drive it to the track and back. But either way i am very interested in being able to tune the setup.
Hey Cupcar,
Call up Bilstein, Koni North America, or Penske and talk to them. This will definitely have to be a custom setup, but at least you have local dealers and service centers that can rebuild your suspension.
I've dealt with Koni and Bilstein, you'd be surprised what they can do for you.
We should have the part numbers for the EVO MR bilsteins pretty soon, as the car will go on sale in Jan/Feb 2004. This is what I will likely replace my stock shocks with.
Steve
Call up Bilstein, Koni North America, or Penske and talk to them. This will definitely have to be a custom setup, but at least you have local dealers and service centers that can rebuild your suspension.
I've dealt with Koni and Bilstein, you'd be surprised what they can do for you.
We should have the part numbers for the EVO MR bilsteins pretty soon, as the car will go on sale in Jan/Feb 2004. This is what I will likely replace my stock shocks with.
Steve
i have an inquery into Moton and Proctrac right now - DMS is another option (the 50mm setup).
I'm not too fond of the Koni 2-way setup (i have had problems with them before in an early 911, not setup related rather quality issues with the adjustment mechanism not keeping it's setting). I was using the Bilistien HD cup's which are very good.
Also Smart Racing can do custom Valving for the Koni's and rebuilding.
thx for the help
I'm not too fond of the Koni 2-way setup (i have had problems with them before in an early 911, not setup related rather quality issues with the adjustment mechanism not keeping it's setting). I was using the Bilistien HD cup's which are very good.
Also Smart Racing can do custom Valving for the Koni's and rebuilding.
thx for the help
I like bilsteins for cost reasons. They are very cheap to re-valve and re-build. A typical re-valve is only $60 a corner.
Bilsteins are very tough, and world reknown for quality.
They are usually non-adjustable, but if the valving is done right the shocks work very well.
There is a service center in San diego and North Carolina.
Konis aren't as durable as bilsteins, I've seen alot of them leak, and they sometimes will need re-building. Their 2812 series is very good though, I hear that the Viper ACR come with them stock.
I have a friend with some of them on his NSX and he loves them, he's also turns some very very fast lap times at the local tracks here.
Penskes are sometimes difficult to valve correctly, at least this is what i've heard from the motorcycle community.
Motons are the club racers and high end racer's shock, very nice stuff, but not sure on the amount of support or service you can get in the US.
Bilsteins are very tough, and world reknown for quality.
They are usually non-adjustable, but if the valving is done right the shocks work very well.
There is a service center in San diego and North Carolina.
Konis aren't as durable as bilsteins, I've seen alot of them leak, and they sometimes will need re-building. Their 2812 series is very good though, I hear that the Viper ACR come with them stock.
I have a friend with some of them on his NSX and he loves them, he's also turns some very very fast lap times at the local tracks here.
Penskes are sometimes difficult to valve correctly, at least this is what i've heard from the motorcycle community.
Motons are the club racers and high end racer's shock, very nice stuff, but not sure on the amount of support or service you can get in the US.

