There is Moton USA for support here in the states - although i am floating the Idea of the Developing the Club Sport Model (steel outers - 2 -way adjustable, lower cost overall than the normal racing models) to them for the EVO. If they bite then there could be a lower cost Moton shock for the EVO, of course that is reletive since they will still cost 2.5K + for a full set + Springs.
Penske has it's hands full with other projects right now and typically you need to extremely specific with the entire spec for them. So unless your a racer and really understand suspension i would not go that route.
As i said before any of these options (Moton, Penske, JRZ) will require set up by a professional suspension person and expect to spend at least 2 full days at the track with them (at least 1500.00 for thier time) + track fees
This is not an endevour for the street driver nor do i see the value unless you are going to really race it.

 

As stated these are not high end components

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cupcar#12
[B]- DMS is another option (the 50mm setup).

If the JICs that we offer are not enough for you, consider that we are the southern California DMS dealer, we have used DMS products on our rally cars for many years, and we can tailor a DMS set-up to your particular needs. We have many years of set-up data to draw from, as we have specialized in turbo AWD Mitsubishi performance for the past decade.

Contact me off-list with any further questions.

john@roadraceengineering.com

 

Thanks John - But i have a dealer up here (whom does rally as well) who typically does my work (roll cage, Setup, etc on the 911 cup car). They have also done a couple of EVO's as well (group N spec).

 

You considered the HKS Hipermax pro's? Iam using them and i think they work awesome on the race track. 36 stiffness levels to adjust. Abit too much for me though

 

Changy, just curious: does your car bounce a lot during hard cornering? What are your stiffness levels when running on the track?

I assume you 'test' the coilovers at Sepang? I experienced bad bouncing especially in the sweepers (Turn 5 and Turn 6). I'm on Ohlins PCV, 16/20 in front, 20/20 (full stiff) rear IIRC. I wonder maybe mine were set too stiff, or ride height too low (was set up LOWER than Ohlins factory spec), or combination of both

Wasn't impressed with the Ohlins on that outing. Although for STREET it is very good.

 

I have no personal experiance with JIC's, but some friends of mine who are regular autocrossers have mixed feelings about the JIC's. 2 drive WRX's the other drives an EVO. The WRX drivers (local STX competitors) have both run the JIC's for at least one season. Both drivers had to replace several of the inserts at the end of each season because of blown seals. That's the bad news. Good news is the replacement inserts are dirt cheap. The EVO driver has not run them long enough, but he is also running really high spring rates so I expect he will have similar problems in the long run (he also has a co-driver). I do like the independent ride height/ spring preload adjustments. Assuming you don't have grey market imported struts, parts are readily available, under warrentee in some cases.

I would recommend either DMS 50's (street length) or Ohlins. In my WRX, I ran both the DMS 40's. IMHO, utter crap, but I also had a set of the earlier design before they found a fix for the stiction problems. To DMS's credit, they did eventually fix the problem. But their biggest problem is the bad reputation that this mistake caused. DMS 40's are great if you want the ride height adjustment without the super stiff ride. DMS does not recommend that anyone run more than a 225lb spring on the 40's. the inserts are not valved to handle anything higher.

I later ran DMS 50's on my WRX. These struts are built like a tank.... no crap. you can bomb down the roughest back road you can find and balence a tea cup on the dash and not spill a drop. The rougher the pavement, the better these work... They never totally failed on me, but the ride could become almost intolerable when they needed maintenance. When they were put back on after regular maintenance, the ride was better than a BMW (on all kinds of road conditions) the harder you through the car into the corner, the better these struts got (progressive spring)

The DMS 50's are alot like a super model girlfriend. you get the best performance for the money, but they are also high maintenance. On average, I had to regrease them every 3 months (the WRX was a daily driver). But again that was with DMS's old seal design.

The dude I sold them too has run them over 6 months now with no problems (updated seals) and absolutely loves them as he totally kicks **** on the autocross and track days...

I just picked up a set of Ohlins... These struts look excellent. Far better construction than DMS (sorry mark) for a similar price. I think at this point, the DMS 50 is more expensive than the Ohlins Road & track struts. But you do need to provide your own camber plates with both of these struts, so there is extra money involved if you consider these struts. I can't wait to put them on the car.

 

check Works' website.