cause of expensive Brembos

 

Most rebuild kits also include the caliper piston seals, not just the dust caps.

If you think about it, regular caliper rebuild kits are ~$30 as stated above. That is for a total of 2 pistons for the front (assuming a single piston caliper). This is about $15/piston.

The brembo rebuild kits are $140 (as stated above), and that is for a total of 8 pistons (for the front). If you take 140 and divide by the total number of pistons in the front, you get $17.50 per piston.

The total is still expensive, but the per piston price is what it should be. Remember, you will always pay for perfromance...

 

Well, I just rebuilt my 300ZXTT aluminum calipers (4 pistons on each front, 8 pistons total) for $25 (from a dealer). They're the stock Sumitomo-sourced calipers. I don't believe for a minute that the little rubber seals should cost so much just because they're such excellent Brembos. If anything, since Brembos are used on multiple carlines (unlike my 300ZX's calipers), they should be much cheaper due to higher volume. Maybe we need to find a source other than Mitsubishi?

I think the STi's and Cadillac CTS-V both use the exact same caliper (not confirmed yet, just eyeballed).

I'll be very surprised if a source doesn't pop up in the next year that sells the kit for <$50.

 

Maybe I'm being stupid, but are the dust seals covered by the warranty? I know that brake pads are wear items and are not, but the warranty covers things like rotor warping so maybe you'll be lucky...

 

EvoNick:

Wonder what kind of brake fluid you are using. I've been told that Motul has no lubrication in it and will cause problems with piston galling, etc. Also I have heard that Brembo does not recomment Motul.

Any opinion about this issue? I'm running Motul and doing track days and am wondering if I should change to something else??

 

They prob would be covered under warranty - once. And then my VIN would be flagged as a "racer" and they'd prob try to deny future claims. Plus, it really doesn't matter if it's warranteed - this only takes 2 track days, and they're not going to do warranty work on brakes once a month.

 

I'm running ATE Super Blue. Dunno about lube. Regardless, lubricration is not the cause of this problem, heat is. The fluid should never even touch the dust seals.

 

Mine are cracked too. Two events - both at VIR. First event was run on stock pads, and the right inner pad delaminated and fubarred the right rotor. (still using it though - I probably shouldn't)

Second event run on Carbotech Bobcats. Bobcats are toast, and so are my dust seals. Dammit.

Now on Panther Plus's - hoping for better luck next time.

Shawn

 

Thinking if titanium shields that go behind the pads would help lower heat transfer to the caliper piston and seals?....


Does anyone know if the rebuild kits are the same as the F40 or F50 kits? If they are, it may cost less for these kits.

 

My guess would be no. Titanium transfers heat pretty darn well - although I don't have conductivity figures right now. Organic shields might, but that would mean the heat would stay in the rotor - not necessarily the best idea either. The boots should be made of a very heat resistant material, but I don't think they are.

Quote:

Does anyone know if the rebuild kits are the same as the F40 or F50 kits? If they are, it may cost less for these kits.

No idea.

Shawn

 

Invest in good ducting to the center of the rotors...

 

Why do you think that will make the problem go away? The problem is the heat in the calipers, not the rotor anyway. Not saying that it won't help, but I kind of doubt it.

But, do you think the Mitsubishi cooling guides will help (easy install, not too expensive either)?

Shawn

 

The cooling guides won't help. I've had them on 2 EVOs, and the brakes still turned color, and the seals still cracked. I don't even think they alleviate the problem, as the seals started cracking after only 2 events.

I'm going to try ducting next, to see if it will help, then maybe water cooling. I think ducting should help. The cooler the rotor, the less heat retained by it, therefore the less heat the caliper has to deal with. I don't think it's bad airflow thru the wheelwell - the guides should take car of that.

A friend of mine talked to Brembo, and they said the EVO brakes were not designed for track use. I wonder, though, whether Brembo has more resistant seals that will fit the calipers.

 

I rebuilt mine a while back, while the dust covers were melted cracked , the inner seals and pistons were fine. The new covers are already starting to melt, I think they are just rubber, perhaps a silicon material would hold up better. Also the design causes the dust seal to touch the pad backing, other caliber systems I have seen have the dust seal inset a bit so they dont touch the pad backing.

BTW that rebuild kit? Thats just for one caliper! yea that's right bend over! I was walking out of the parts department with it when I noticed there was not enough parts WTF. Parts guy "Oh yea it does say 2X you want me to order another one?" SOB!

If some one finds an after market rebuild kit please let us all know. Maybe with silicon dust seals?

 

Brembo F40 and F50 seal and dust boot kits are $50ea. Does anyone know if the Evo caliper pistons are 38mm or 44mm?

Titanium shields seem to be effective for some in reducing heat transfer.
http://www.seinesystems.com/BrakeFade-2.htm