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evo = understeer beast

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Old Nov 9, 2003, 07:52 PM
  #31  
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also remeber guys the evo has alot more ground clearance than most sports car. it also has a longer suspension travel as compared to most sports cars. so keep that in mind. also some body roll helps to make the car corner better by shifting the weight to the outside tires at an angle. in other words if you were to put all 4 legs of a camera stand together it would not be very stable. however if you seperate them it will be able to stanf more leaning than whne the legs were together. and if you lowere two of those legs even further the camera would be tilted but able to take more leaning to one side as compared to the higher side. now if you lowered the whole stand... by making the legs shorter not by increasing the angle ... would also make it more stable.

just my 2 cents.

and as far as improving your body roll... figure out what you want the car to do before you make any mods.
Old Nov 9, 2003, 10:21 PM
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Originally posted by MP5


You have Teins might that have F'D up the tune of the factory setup? BTW Im noticing that very few with AWD experience are complaining of the understeer. Are you former RWD guys taking the same lines through the corners as your used to? Cause there are a lot of hard core trackers that are in love with the EVO factory suspension- I myself think its the best thing since sliced bread I only notice understeer when Im too hot (Duh) or when the line through the corner is not approached wide
But I did notice the tendency of understeering on the EVO since I had factory suspension and tires. Maybe, I'm just used to driving RWD cars.
Old Nov 9, 2003, 10:22 PM
  #33  
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Originally posted by IS2000


But I did notice the tendency of understeering on the EVO since I had factory suspension and tires. Maybe, I'm just used to driving RWD cars.
No FWD in your case
Old Nov 9, 2003, 10:38 PM
  #34  
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Why put all that crap on your car when you are only trying to solve 1 thing. I bet if you put all that BS on your car it would be WORSE then stock. Mitsu is not stupid and they have been working with this car longer then you. I would do a rear bar ONLY and 1 thing at a time. Also you want to make the car faster around a track? Do some lapping days and learn how to drive fast. I think most at this level have no idea what kind of times they are going to do. Also you can mess with camber, caster, and toe and see if that help. You don't have to spend 5k to make
the car "better" Hell when does it understeer at the track? Put some slicks on it that will help. Anyone the car only gets understeer when you come in to hot. Again learn how to drive that is better then any BS coil over.


Originally posted by Chris in HB
The Evo does understeer big time in stock form. The solution is coilovers, larger anti-roll bars, and rear strut brace. It should flatten out and turn in with a more neutral manner then.

Of course, I did witness a guy spin an Evo on Hoosiers...
Old Nov 9, 2003, 11:13 PM
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i think its really easy for evo to tip 3 wheels.. i saw some video of evo taking corners and they lifted 3 wheels...
Old Nov 9, 2003, 11:14 PM
  #36  
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Originally posted by pearlwhiteoz
i think its really easy for evo to tip 3 wheels.. i saw some video of evo taking corners and they lifted 3 wheels...
lifted 1 wheel else its into the wall with i 235 down
Old Nov 9, 2003, 11:43 PM
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Originally posted by Chris in HB
Of course, I did witness a guy spin an Evo on Hoosiers...
I witnessed that as well... with a lot more interest than you, I imagine.


Anyway, I started autocrossing the Evo about 5 months ago, and have been doing a pretty steady schedule of autocrossing since. I've noticed that the car understeers less and less as I get better and better.

Essentially, there are two places I saw the Evo understeer like a pig -- if I was trying to turn under heavy braking, or if I was giving too much throttle for my steering angle.

Both of those have sorted themselves out as I've become a better driver. I rarely find any understeer worth complaining about these days. The understeer is definitely there for the asking, I just learned to stop asking.
Old Nov 9, 2003, 11:47 PM
  #38  
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understeer?

Just got back from 2 days at Steets of Willow event with Porsche Owners Club. Imagine 60 Porsches, many of them full blown trailered racecars. 2 evos and a handfull of other cars. We were faster than 2/3 of the cars there, running 1:19's - 1:21's.

I have a lot of engine mods but only Azenis 245's and a progress group 26mm rear sway and perrin links for suspension mods. Rear sway and thats it. I had to adjust my sway to its minimum setting to keep from lifting a rear inside wheel more than 5 inches during braking. No lift during cornering and acceleration through turns. Easy does it on suspension mods!

I am going to keep my stock suspension and its only semi rattling ride and continue to concentrate on learning how to drive the car. Best investment you can make isn't coilovers, rear sway etc but track time.

We flat scared many turbo 9 series. I let the instructor who has several records at both tracks at Willow Springs drive the car and he can do 1:13's with it compared with his purpose built track car's 1:10's that simply dominates the events(1600 pounds and 350 + hp and 2 foot wide slicks all around, whole body is a cage etc). I asked him what else we need to fix on the suspension and he said "Leave it-that car is simply amazing.... I can almost drive this car as fast as my track car"... He was simply dumbfounded by the brakes, awd and decent power(I have 376 at the wheels).

Before you do any suspension mods, learn what the car will do and won't do and what it is really capable of and invest in a track day at a serious road course. You cannot find places to repeatedly slide your car sideways at 50-70 + mph for say 7-8 seconds straight on the street. Or coming off the back straight at 115 mph and standing on the brakes right into a giant hairpin setup on the skid pad(see pic below) and pivot for 5-6 second completely sideways on the street.

Appeciate just how world class beating this car is and learn to really drive it before you go nuts on the mods.

My 2 cents. Sorry if I am overkill but I am totally pumped after spending 2 full days on the track and going back 2 tuesday!

BTW, Kudos to Roshon at Brainstorm for coming back from sema early and tuning my aem ems on the dyno consecutive nights till 10 at night so I could make it to the track. IT WAS A BLAST!

mmlvmm
Attached Thumbnails evo = understeer beast-img_3413.jpg  

Last edited by MMLVMM; Nov 10, 2003 at 12:01 AM.
Old Nov 9, 2003, 11:49 PM
  #39  
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another one...
Attached Thumbnails evo = understeer beast-img_3400.jpg  
Old Nov 10, 2003, 12:08 AM
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damn that looks like fun
Old Nov 10, 2003, 01:15 AM
  #41  
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Originally posted by chronohunter


Do brake in the corner! but not to slow the car down to load the front tires and KILL THAT UNDERSTEER if you get on the gas too early (too far before the apex) it will push like a pig (as will just about any car). Sequence: hard brake only when straight, slow release of the brake to help the car turn (till it pointa at the apex) then add power progressively as you unwind the wheel. Any deviation from this is slow (but it sometimes feels fast to the untrained).

P.S. the car could use some sway bars but is amazingly good stock and has less understeer than just about any AWD car.
My 2 cents
You are talking to someone who goes to the canyons 4-5 times a month.....Don't BRAKE in turns.......always do the braking before the turn.......You will lose control if you brake in turns.....
Old Nov 10, 2003, 02:25 AM
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Originally posted by 2fast2Furious
Why put all that crap on your car when you are only trying to solve 1 thing. I bet if you put all that BS on your car it would be WORSE then stock. Mitsu is not stupid and they have been working with this car longer then you. I would do a rear bar ONLY and 1 thing at a time. Also you want to make the car faster around a track? Do some lapping days and learn how to drive fast. I think most at this level have no idea what kind of times they are going to do. Also you can mess with camber, caster, and toe and see if that help. You don't have to spend 5k to make
the car "better" Hell when does it understeer at the track? Put some slicks on it that will help. Anyone the car only gets understeer when you come in to hot. Again learn how to drive that is better then any BS coil over.
I think this is the first time someone has said Mitsu is NOT stupid...

Anyway, I am doing things a little at a time. I have the rear bar installed and I do like the way it improved neutrality. The Cusco bars are adjustable (at least in the rear). True, most of my experience is with RWD cars, but I still know how to drive (FWD, RWD, AWD). I just know how I want my car to respond to inputs. And before you say that I need to learn this or that, keep in mind that even F1 drivers (or WRC drivers, for that matter) often have different set-ups with the same car. It's all driver preference. As for actually changing the anti-roll bars, I am still undecided if I need to or not. The one thing I am pretty much sold on is a good set of coilovers with adjustable camber plates.

Chris
Old Nov 10, 2003, 05:30 AM
  #43  
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Adjust handling with air pressures first. More air pressure in the back will make the car oversteer more. I was playing with air pressures and got the balance a little too much to the back and spun the Evo at an autocross. Trust me, air pressures will do a lot!
Old Nov 10, 2003, 06:04 AM
  #44  
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Originally posted by NRG
Originally posted by chronohunter

Do brake in the corner! but not to slow the car down to load the front tires and KILL THAT UNDERSTEER if you get on the gas too early (too far before the apex) it will push like a pig (as will just about any car). Sequence: hard brake only when straight, slow release of the brake to help the car turn (till it pointa at the apex) then add power progressively as you unwind the wheel. Any deviation from this is slow (but it sometimes feels fast to the untrained).
You are talking to someone who goes to the canyons 4-5 times a month.....Don't BRAKE in turns.......always do the braking before the turn.......You will lose control if you brake in turns.....
I think what chronohunter is talking about is trailing throttle oversteer: In high compression normal breathers, if you lift slightly when understeering, the weight transfers toward the front wheels, putting more weight on the tires, helping them stick. (And taking adhesion from the rears.) In low compression turbos, you'd have to accomplish the weight transfer by feathering the brake during the turn (left foot braking or h&t).

This is based on using just enough braking to affect weight transfer, not to slow the vehicle. But any braking adds to the friction load on the tires, so its a matter of getting enough to put weight on the fronts without adding much to the friction vector.

TTO is often taught at track schools, but I find it works better on RWD race cars than on AWD turbos on the street. It tends to presume a flat, smooth and clean "race line" -- which isn't always what you get in real world turns. But you still want to avoid putting too much power to the wheels early in turns, as heavy throttle shifts the weight rearward, increasing the chances of understeer.

So before considering aftermarket coilovers, different wheels, upgraded sway bars, etc., sometimes the first "accessory" to add to a max performance car is a session at Skip Barber or similar performance driving course. Even veterans can benefit from a review of theory and a few practice sessions without the soccer moms in the way.

Orignially posted by wi_whoami
Adjust handling with air pressures first. More air pressure in the back will make the car oversteer more. I was playing with air pressures and got the balance a little too much to the back and spun the Evo at an autocross. Trust me, air pressures will do a lot!
I'll second that. It's amazing how much difference a couple of pounds of pressure difference (f/r) makes on a well balanced car.

So first thing is to check your pressures. Some dealers forget to check/adjust this at delivery.

Last edited by DGS; Nov 10, 2003 at 06:14 AM.
Old Nov 10, 2003, 06:20 AM
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Originally posted by DGS

I think what chronohunter is talking about is trailing throttle oversteer: In high compression normal breathers, if you lift slightly when understeering, the weight transfers toward the front wheels, putting more weight on the tires, helping them stick. (And taking adhesion from the rears.) In low compression turbos, you'd have to accomplish the weight transfer by feathering the brake during the turn (left foot braking or h&t).

This is based on using just enough braking to affect weight transfer, not to slow the vehicle. But any braking adds to the friction load on the tires, so its a matter of getting enough to put weight on the fronts without adding much to the friction vector.

TTO is often taught at track schools, but I find it works better on RWD race cars than on AWD turbos on the street. But you still want to avoid putting too much power to the wheels early in turns, as heavy throttle shifts the weight rearward, increasing the chances of understeer.
I thought he was describing Trail Braking...

Trailing Throttle Oversteer is a different concept, which definitely doesn't require braking at all on the Evo, and in fact works really well on an autocross course.


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