without thread-jacking... any other thoughts on improving corner exit? I was (amazed?) at the lack of go on corner-exit vs. that 'other' boost buggy I've driven... the evo seems to push and push, I'm sure the 50/50 power delivery doesn't help vs. the 35/65 or more on the 'other buggy'...

And by other thoughts I mean non-rear-diff related... (hard to send out a diff on a daily driver!)

 

They have an STU legal version.

 

If you're understeering into the corner, that's where trail-braking, late apexing, slow in-fast out and other "driver mod's" so to speak, come in. Understeer out of a corner is just frustrating and annyoing, in which you'll either have to get on the power later, or get an upgraded rear diff.

 

Yeah, but that's really just a rebuild of the OEM. It just freshens it up. It's nothing like the TRE Maxx-Lock... which is highly recommended if you're building a BSP car.

 

Like others have said, corner entry understeer can be remedied by entering slower... You're probably going in too hot.

 

I agree. Sounds like novice driver (no offense, we were all new at one point).

 

Something like this will fix it with $0 in parts.


http://www.soloprodrivingschool.com/

Or, my son will be at the Merchant Marine Academy in July; he can show you how to do it well in your own backyard, in your car.

 

I'm with everyone else, most likely trying to go to fast into a turn. There are remedies, including the ACD flash that increases rotation. But there's nothing better than seat time.

 

Would the Whiteline roll center kit help him out at all since he's lowered a bit? Trying to learn some of this stuff myself...

 

IMO yes it would a little bit, but it's generally not auto-x legal.

I also think there is more to gain from a change in driving style.

- andrew

 

i took a week to do this - actually got a cusco 1.5 way rather than tre upgraded.. my car power oversteers now, def worth it in my opinion

 

Since I can't change out the rear diff in my car (being in STU), I instead rely on deliberately overdamping the rear compression and running a lot of rear tire pressure to try to keep the rear "unstuck". It's a band-aid approach at best, but this has proven to be fastest (for me) considering the limited prep. The car will rotate pretty well on the power in tighter corners - particularly on asphalt - but it will still be FWD-ish everywhere else.

Rear toe out and less negative camber in the rear will also help this, although that can potentially make the car more of a handful everywhere else.

Even so, with the stock rear diff, it won't throttle steer nearly as nice as a Subaru does no matter what you do...

 

there is just to much to quote in this thread... as for driving style. i have been autoxing since i before i could drive. I know a good amount of techniques to driving threw the years. driving the car 100% stock vs now... the car understeers. all the thread was ment to do was see if anyone else saw the same results with the front sway bar added into the mix.

 

You didn't mention that once in the OP.

How long have you been able to drive? 'threw' 'ment' ...

 

like others said, your camber is too high in the rear. I'd run 1.5 or less. currently my car is setup at -2f/-1.2r 0 toe all around. as for the tire pressures, I don't know about the Z1's, but on my NT-05's I run 36-38 up front, and 34-36 in the rear. I'd try dropping from 39 to what I usually run.

also, I've seen a few threads on this with different opinions, but from my experience, running slightly lower pressure in the rear tires gets the car to rotate better. I'd always thought it should be the other way around, but after trying it out, it seems to work. good luck