well its partly your driving style making it understeer (going to hot into tight turns) but also evo naturally understeering. if you upgrade to good quality coilovers, it helps alot. i say for now next autox try running slightly higher psi in the rear then front

(for autox softening the rear sway will increase understeer)

 

Tire pressures 39 all around? I would drop the front some.

Well, you are on the right track with the "go slower" part. If you are over driving the car, you are over driving the car. You can only do one thing at a time - accelerate, brake, or turn. Trying to mix 2 of those (or all three ) will lead to issues.

I disagree with the coilover comment - driving the same with coilovers will get you the same result.

 

He's already on a solid suspension setup for a beginner. I would bump the rear pressures up a bit rather than drop the front but that's just my preference of psi. Definitely just need to adjust the driving it sounds like. Make sure you brake before the turn, otherwise you're just going to scrub and understeer. Keep at it, have experienced drivers ride along with you if possible. Do as many fun runs as you can and get input. Seat time, seat time, seat time.

 

i ran 39 since the sidewalls had marks all over them at 36.....

-
and i know

 

That's also a bit too much rear camber.

- drew

 

That was going to be my comment... With that much camber in the rear, the car's not going to rotate very well, especially when you're only at -2.0* in the front.

 

drew what would you say is a good rear #?

 

-1.5 is what I ran.

 

I'd agree that 1.5 or even 1.25 on an evo8. I have found ~36-37 in the fronts for the z1's on a 17x9 works well, only times I saw it roll over THAT bad, was when I blew a corner, and the tires started screeching as the sidewalls rolled over... If you don't overdrive the tires (which seems to be common on full tread Z1's that I've seen)... I haven't had rollover at the 36-37 range... I'd keep the rears then in the ~39-40... ideal? no.. but with your current setup, I think it is a good start...

Also, I have almost 2.25* of camber on the front of my evo, just with the stock bolts.. get the cam bolt to the -2 direction, and with both top & bottom bolts 'loose' push the top of the hub (usually by pushing in on the top of the rotor).. HOLD PRESSURE on that, and then tighten both bolts... did that on both sides, and on a perfectly level surface I'm at -2.20 on one side and -2.25 on the other... any little bit helps..

 

Yup, -1.5 or a bit less as said above.

-1.25 works well for auto-x and -1.5 is fine for the track and street.

- Andrew

 

I'm not expert, but I align my car myself, which is great since I have access to a rack. Anyway, I always keep the front camber at the -2 setting, which turns out to be anywhere from -1.6-1.8. The rear camber I set to -1 or maybe -1.2.

For autocross especially I'd try to tow the front and rear out a bit. The rear so it rotates the car and the front just to increase grip on the outter front tire. For high speed purposes, like a full race track, I think it's be best to keep the toe closer to 0 for straight line stability.

That's my opinion. The suspesnion you have is perfect. As mentioned, driving style alone can put a huge damper on what the car does. Slow in, fast out. Late-apex. Trail-braking is also useful. And when you start to understeer, don't steer MORE. Lift off gently and it sounds odd, but turn out VERY slightly. If you lift suddenly and quickly, you'll snap and take out some cones, or worse, a gaurdrail if on the track. I have lived the gaurdrail part I may be telling you things you're already aware of, so if I am, I'm sorry

And if you really want to have some fun, look into the TRE rear diff upgrade. I see one of those in my future for sure once I can afford it

 

Are you understeering going into the turn, or coming out? If it's coming out of the turn, a TRE rear diff will fix it.

l8r)

 

That's class dependent though. Can't run aftermarket diffs until SP and up.

 

I bet it's going into a corner. OP, am I right?