bump for video. i wanna see/hear this thing!!!

 

Because my front camber plates are maxed out!

 

Shep said it's the 12 plate. No fancy name.

 

Did you flip the camber bolt at the lower strut mount too? If not, that'll give you another degree of neg. camber.

 

That is strange. I have JICs too, and I can easily get -3.5*+. That's with 17x9.5+18 with 245/40s, but still, I'm pretty sure it's been done with many other setups. Like GG06MR said, you may have additional range tied up in the bolt.

 

Yep, the lower bolt is pointing for max. There's multiple small holes for the bolts there on the plate, and I could move to the next one so I was using the 1st and 3rd (instead of 1st and 4th) but didn't think it'd be safe.

I had -3.5 on my previous coilovers (they really sucked though).

 

OK, just had to ask to make sure. A friend of mine that tracks his SR20DET powered S13 240SX 2-3 times per month "modified" his camber plates last year to increase negative camber with very good results. He essentially drilled out the bolt sliders and upper hat area about 1/3rd of an inch further. As long as you're careful not to cut too much material out, then I believe you could enjoy similar results. If you're interested, let me know, and I'll ask my buddy for specifics, pics, details, etc. that I can pass on to you.

 

I haven't pulled my video from the rainy sessions yet, but here's vid from the dry below. It doesn't make any different sounds once warmed up and at speed. Note in both markers below I kept it floored! I think I need to work on opening up the wheel a little more and being smoother but it was my first time out with the upgrade and all. The markers are T3 at Autobahn S - which is codenamed 'Million Dollar Corner' as it's taken some high-priced machinery! It claimed 3 cars this weekend; all minor though.

Check out the :15 mark for some oversteer from the new Shep rear diff!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxAskb4PUjI

Check out the 1:49 mark:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXN2DDOCvz8

 

Here's some proof that the rear tires are working through the corners. Check out the rubber laid down!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcf20A072Zw

 

ok I am confused. I have an 03 JDM EVO 8 and it is a race car only and I had a BAD run on the weekend. Car understeered on entry, mid cnr and exit. I have been told I should get a front diff and a big rear sway bar and also have been told I should get a rear diff as that is the way to go.
I have coilovers, Whiteline Front & Rear sway bar and WL roll centre kit also.
Can someone shed some light on which way I should go?

 

Oh, I also have ACD and AYC

 

The front diff and big rear bar will have the car performing like a FWD car, just with more attitude. The rear diff upgrade would make the car more neutral overall, and allow for on throttle oversteer (which the front diff/big rear bar will not). More details on settings? camber? toe? what coilovers? spring rates? rake? autoX or track? etc.

 

A front diff is a major asset to the car; no doubt. Being I have an 06; I've already got a pretty good one. The rear diff in all of our US cars (non AYC) is just not aggressive enough. This is where Shep's upgrade comes in.

In short, it'll lock much quicker and more aggressively under power. Meaning when you power out mid-corner from the apex the car will be more abliged to rotate. Not crazy oversteer, but a controlled kick-out. A ton of factors figure in here like steering angle, amount of throttle, amount of grip, type of tire/grip/size, other suspension setup and obviously your ability to control the car!

I found it to be very predictable and controllable and unless I seriously tried to throw out the rear end it was nothing but enjoyable and lowered my laptimes as I was able to get on AND stay on the throttle through the corners much sooner and all the way down the next straight.

You can put a big rear bar on the car, raise up the rear ride height a bunch, toe out the back and a few other tricks, but in the end all of these aren't increasing rear grip - they are actually reducing rear grip in an attempt to force the car to rotate.

 

wouldn't a bigger rear sway bar allow for less understeer?

Maybe changing your spring rates? what are they now?

 

Jerm - yes a bigger rear sway bar will allow less understeer, but the issue is not that. In a FWD, it is no issue to have a rear tire picked up and floating along while mid corner. The evo needs either the rear tires down to apply power, or a good LOCKING diff to ensure the outside rear tire gets ample power to propel the car out of a corner. My comment is simply that there are two schools of thought, to either set the car up like a FWD (just with more attitude), or to set it up to maximize rear traction so you can control corner exit with the throttle, and likely get on the throttle sooner, and stay in it longer. OP is getting lots of info in this thread, most of which has been discussed in plenty of other threads, awaiting Smike, GTWorx or chaotic to chime in.