I think this is good advice. I would sooner remove a part than add something in your situation. My car under-steers just like you describe yours.

Bad under-steer on corner exit always corresponds to either braking too late or throttling to early/too much, in my experience. With your power, you might need to car almost completely straight before you can full throttle.

I would work on late apexing and keeping a tight line. You can also practice trail-braking to get a little bit of rotation up to the apex.

 

Moved away last month

You should check out COM events too. The NH Speedway was fun. Tight course, but with the Evos power, it would be a top car in that event.

 

also, think about not playing with tire pressures or other setting while at the event, unless your driving is really consistent. I find it difficult to tell if a faster time was due to better driving or more grip.

 

Seems as if your entering the corner too hot, I would try to enter slow which equates to a fast exit and higher straightaway speeds. If your scrubbing , slow down a little more on the next lap..

 

A late apex will only fix the symptom, not the cause.

Bone stock, I had corner-exit push in just about any type of turn. Added the rear trailing arm bushings, and it helped a tiny bit with understeer, but greatly improved braking stability on a road course. I then added the TRE rear diff, which completely eliminated all corner-exit understeer - other than the bushings, all other suspension components remained stock at the time.

To sum it up simply: stock rear diff = no throttle until turn exit; upgraded rear diff = apply throttle at apex.

l8r)

 

Smike- I am sorry to hear that you are no longer in the area. I am going to look into the COM events. Is there a good website that has info on local autocross's?

Back to the topic on hand. I really want to stress that I am talking about understeer exiting the corner rather than going into the corner. I know if it understeers going into the corner I have entered too hot. What ircs me is exiting the corner. Technique aside I really want to be able to get back on the gas before the car is completely straight causing a little oversteer. Instead it just pushes.

If I could be back on the gas at the apex I feel like I could be significantly faster around the course.

 

If your on a serious budget you wont get rid of the exit push. You have to many things working against you. Engine sits up front, geometry is off with a lowered car, sitting on bump stops (GT-Works did a better than most job at preventing this), etc.

If you are looking to get the best bang for your buck to try to limit the amount of exit push, I would suggest a rear diff. Its the most direct option you can do. Just know that if your technique is wrong, the diff will do nothing but waste money. The ACD reflash is cheaper but I think its more supplementary to what overall chassis is setup for.

ACD reflash with stock diff will make a difference once you get to throttle and start to activate the diff. While the stock ACD with a built diff will be constant, on or off throttle because its more directly connected.

To clarify above:

The stock diff has enough surface area to be driven at XX% but once you start pushing the extra XX% it has a hard time applying equal power to both rears. So no matter how strong the ACD reflash is, the limiting factor still remains, the rear diff. While if you go with the built diff, the limiting factor is the ACD reflash which with practice can be a moot point, until you can get the reflash.

Conclusion: Get the diff but most importantly practice as much as you can and dont give up. Driving takes years of practice just to get consistent. And with you only doing a few events a year, makes it exponentially harder.

 

Bougs, your breakdown made perfect sense to me. I have been leaning more towards the diff however I am still not sure if I want to spend more money on my car.

For the record the car did fantastic. I am just always looking to improve things and my only complaint was the inability to kick the back end out on command exiting corners.

 

Right on, the Shep rear diff did more for fixing my understeer than the rear bar did.

 

How much did you pay for your shep rear diff and what was the turnaround time?

 

Is this a modification to the existing diff? or a replacement? (i.e qualfe)

 

Existing diff, they are machined to accept more clutch's. Cost is $400 and turn around is the same week.

 

though i didn't have them done at the same time i didn't drive my car aggressively enough to tell anything. The general consensus is that the rear diff makes the bigger difference, and I'd agree with that seeing as how the car was designed to have something more aggressive in the rear from the factory

 

I am getting the same vibe between the diff and the reflash. The replacement diff in theory works instantly whereas the reflashed diff takes time understand whats going on and pump the fluid accordingly.

A little curious as to what you mean by the statement that the car was designed to have something more aggressive in the rear from the factory...

 

i meant that the car was built to have a more aggressively locking rear diff like the ayc or the mechanical 1.5 way they put on the RS - the usdm ct9a cars came with an old version of the rear diff off of the evo3 modified to fit in our cars (to save money)

like i said with the cusco i have to car really power oversteers on corner exit