RJones- This whole rsb thing is confusing the heck out of me

Do you think it had to do with the fact that your bar was 27mm? I have a Perrin which is 25mm.

 

My "full soft" setting is supposed to be the same as "full stiff" on a 25mm bar.

 

That makes me feel a little better. I will see how things feel on the middle setting and go from there. I am willing to bet that I am not "good" enough to even feel a difference although I did happen to feel differences in the car when I adjusted my tires pressures.

Do you think if I put it on the softest setting I would have a better chance of forcing the car to oversteer exiting the corner as there is a better chance that both rear wheels will be on the ground?

 

Heel to toe, I'm no expert, but in my experience, I say get on the gas in second at the apex, and by the time you exit you are on boost and accelerating nicely. If you feel the car begin to push, back off a bit, you seem to be overpowering your tyres. Also, I think that a LOWER rear pressure causes the back to be able to rotate earlier, higher pressures stiffen the sidewall and stabilise the rear more. I usually run (on ****ty tyres) 37 front cold and 34-35 rear cold.

Dunno if this will help.

 

If the rear wheel is off the ground, stiffer wont do much for ya. Im a big proponent of people aren't stiff enough in the front. Think about it this way. If you have a scale that goes from too soft - just right - too stiff, and just right has the most grip with it falling off on both ends. The evo front would be on the two soft side and the rear on the too stiff side (after adding huge rear sway bars). Stiffening the front brings you closer to just right, stiffening the rear takes you further into too stiff. Of course this is with stock-ish suspension and just going to a big rear bar, sorry I forgot to read what you were running. And since this about understeer, while the rear bar does has effects on the front weight transfer its not what will cause the front to have more grip. I know we all get tired of hearing "Stick the front, don't un-stick the rear", but this is where you gotta work on the front of the car not the rear.

 

^^^ Yet again, work computer fails at keeping my spacing...

 

Well I havent checked on this thread in a while. I just got back from an autocross which didnt go too well and unfortunately was my last one for the season as I am going back to school next week.

Thanks to my external dump they booted me for noise so I only managed to get a couple of runs in. It was poring out so things were dicey to say the least.

My swaybar was set in the middle setting and my tire pressures were 35f 38r. The conditions didnt really allow me to see if the change in swaybar stiffness made a difference. It was seriously soaked out there so my star specs really had their work cut out for them. The car really wanted to push when at the limit however I also waqs able to get her to rotate on corner exit like I used to remember it could. I am just not sure if that was due to the rain.

Now I have another year ahead of me to prepare my car. I thought I was done with power mods but now I have to consider getting rid of my external dump in favor of a recirculated o2 housing. The thing did hold boost like a **** thats for sure. Then its gotta be retuned yada yada booo...

Anyway I am probably getting rid of the springs. I am also considering the diff however I just dont know if it makes sense at this time. The good news is that I have a ton of time to make, meaning tons of research that will allow me to make up my mind

EDIT: 1000th post...I am a nerd

 

rear diff is definitely the way to go

 

this car is dropped, no? and it i s jacking, as the guy says. tow things that may help and i do not think were covered: roll centre kit from whiteline, and checking the links on the roll bars, they may be seized.

 

It was mentioned briefly at the beginning of the thread, then the discussion of diffs took precedence.

I do think that the RCA kit should be done first or at the same time as the rear diff upgrade. The RCA kit may not give the power oversteer the OP was looking for. An upgraded diff is certainly not going to fix the front geometry.

 

Once, right after I did all my bushings (but not acd or rear diff), i was autocrossing and i got into a totally naturally balanced 4 wheel drift.. the car had never done it before - it just felt completely natural. i totally attributed that to the bushings fixing some of the suspension weaknesses on ct9as