Hi I bought Hawk DTC-70 a couple of weeks ago because my pads where dead and couldn't pass the good deal on them. So DTC-70 are definitly not made for the streets and the dust on them is madness but at least I wont die at the end of the 1/4 mile . Now I need to change my rotors as they are to the point that they cant even get resurfaced anymore. I was looking into the options available but with such agressive pads I know I need something good. I saw they have a DBA 4000 rotor and pad (hawk HPS) package on sale that I might get so I can save the DTC-70 for track (like they are suppose too). So the question is will the DBA 4000 work good with the DTC-70 on the track or if anyone can recommend a good rotor around that price range that would work I would appreciatte it a lot!

 

When you refer to the track, are you talking about 1/4 mile, or road racing events? DTC-70s are for road racing and definitely not what you want for drag racing, they will not get hot enough to be effective in drag racing.

 

I mean both road racing and drag. I'm looking into different pads for daily usage as I know this are not ment for it but I want to buy rotors good enough that when I end up actually having some fun in the track they dont get destroyed by the DTC-70's

 

Unfortunately, rotors are something that will wear quickly doing road racing events. I had a set of DBA4000s and they only lasted a year( 7 track events). I am installing brake ducts and putting on 2-piece Performance Friction rotors to help with the heating and cracking under the hi temps that the race pads create.

Some folks have gone with track only rotors to help with the longevity of DD rotors

 

From my experience, the DBA 4000s are overpriced, and their 'paw' design delivers nothing notable in terms of performance or longevity over a standard design.

For track days (talking 4 or 5, 30 minute track sessions each event, not drag racing), I've run 9 straight events on a cheap blank set of rotorpros rotors from MAPerformance.com (Vendor). Cheap, and totally get the job done, and with the silver zinc coating they actually still look presentable on the hubs. Centric rotors from Tirerack.com are also a fine, very inexpensive choice that do the same job as the DBA 4000s for much, much less. A fellow EvoM member and friend uses Centric for his track Evo with great results.

The DBA 4000s will work just fine with the DTC70s as will any other rotor designed for the stock caliper, but the next question is why you're running DTC70s for drag? They're designed to need to heat up before being 100% effective. I'd recommend selling the DTC 70s for a pad that heats up faster.

Not to be too long winded, but read the brake, duct, fluid sticky at the top of the forum page. Hawk HPS are beyond garbage for our cars. Plenty of info in that thread on why.

 

I bought them for autox but I moved out here recently and haven't had a chance to test their potencial . I know they are not ment for drag but that is the only thing basically I've been able to do around. I'm also considering selling them if I don't find any good places available soon because its pretty pointless to have them if I'm not using them. I did read the brake thread only considered the HPS because they come in this package deal with the DBA 4000. But if they are that bad I might get some GS5's or stop tech street performance and just get rid of the DCT...I just wanted to kow if DBA 4000 where any good because I've seen very mixed reviews on them and wanted second opinions on them before I go out and get them.

 

I tracked my old car (Skyline R32) with DBA4000 on the rears and they cracked. Looked like a design flaw to me as I had seen other cars fitted with the same rotors crack in exactly the same spot - basically the crack started at the small slot at the outer of the rotor and went straight down to the hub (on both sides of the rotor). Do a search on skylinesaustralia.com and you'll see what I mean. I sent them back to DBA who said an engineer was going to have a look at them get back to me but they never did.....overpriced for what they are.

 

DTC 70s are my pad of choice for track events, but they are definitely going to hurt you in autocross because they will either be too grippy (once they heat up) or they won't work well enough (because they will be cold), more likely the latter. HP+'s are good for autocross, but even those need half a run to really start working properly. DTC 70s are crazy expensive to be wasting away from the road course too!

I agree with those who say any rotor will work. Rotors are consummables. For drag or autocross, get something as light as possible (like the Baer Eradispeed). For road course, get something that doesn't have holes or slots and that has good vent design. PFC 2-pieces are good as are many others.

 

Hi Racing_girl,
As you are aware disc rotors are a wear item and the relationship between rotors and pads plays a very large role in how your car handles and stops as well as the longevity of the components that make up your brake system.

Here in Australia we have extensively tested our disc rotors both on and off track with both sponsored race drivers, track day enthusiasts and people that just like to drive hard on the street. This year we even had our 5000 series front rotor and the 4000 series rear rotor on the class winning and 2nd outright placing Mitsubishi Evo X of Pro-duct motorsport in the Bathurst 12hr. Righto the rotors were looking second hand by the end of the 12hrs, but they lasted and were consistent throughout the race even during the extended wet periods (which induced a lot of thermal shock into the rotors).

As TX EVO says rotors are a wear item and they will eventually fail or wear out (in the event of motorsport, more than likely they will fail before they wear). 7 race events (not sure how much track time per event so I cannot comment too much) is not bad however it can be extended by how thorough the bed-in was performed, pad selection, driving style & warm-up/cooldown laps. See here for a general motorsport guide http://www.dba.com.au/system/files/p...0General_0.pdf and here for our motorsport bed-in guide http://www.dba.com.au/system/files/p...MotorSport.pdf. Brake ducts that point a lot of air directly into the hub area aid cooling of the rotor HUGELY as will help extend rotor life also.

As also mentioned Hawk DTC70 pads are NOT a street pad. They are a 100% motorsport pad. I am involved with a BMW M3R race car that runs DTC70 front & DTC60 rear on 5000 series front and 4000 series rear rotors, they are a good motorsport pad for serious track use but definitely not a street pad. They will not get into the temp range they need to, too work properly on the street and may prematurely wear or score the friction faces of the rotor.

Solo II Evo, you don’t mention what your experience is with our product. If you believe a straight vane design is better than a pillar & post vane design I can provide actual photos of a straight vane OEM disc that shows the corrugation in the friction faces that occurred during an ADR test we carried out in October. Why straight vane rotors can ‘corrugate’ is explained more in the video here http://www.dba.com.au/dba-kangaroo-paw

Russco, when did you send your rotors back? What had you used the car for, who did you get them through what pads were you using etc etc. Please feel free to contact me dbasteve@dba.com.au

Racing_girl I hope this helps.

Cheers,
DBASteve
dbasteve@dba.com.au

 

All you need is a good pad. A cheap rotor from ebay will be plenty for 95% of the people out there.

Also most track pads work nearly as well cold as they do hot. My friends run Carbotech XP12s 24/7 without issue (other than noise).

I run Raybestos ST43 pads and love them .... but I only run them at the track. I have done plenty of cold 140 to 30 mph stops and they grab like a SOB.

Unless you plan on attending an HPDE with multiple hot laps I doubt you will even need any ducting as the stock brakes are fabulous when mated with high quality pad and fluid.