Getting an alignment...
Dec 11, 2003, 01:25 PM
#16
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Originally posted by limey
I think we are missing the most crucial part of D's set up...that 0.5 on the rear....Don't do it...in my opinion it makes the evo handle like a 15 year old chevy!!! I like some opposite lock action from time to time, but with the 0.5 it messes everything up...IMO I would stick with the factory recommended -1.0 on the rear.....
If you wan't some rotation I would look into an adjustable sway bar
I think we are missing the most crucial part of D's set up...that 0.5 on the rear....Don't do it...in my opinion it makes the evo handle like a 15 year old chevy!!! I like some opposite lock action from time to time, but with the 0.5 it messes everything up...IMO I would stick with the factory recommended -1.0 on the rear.....
If you wan't some rotation I would look into an adjustable sway bar
Dec 11, 2003, 01:31 PM
#17
Originally posted by HIGH REV
So does this mean that when the Evo left the factory, its suspension was calibrated with someone in the car? If so, what were this person's dimensions (height, weight, etc)? If Mitsubishi was determined to build the perfect driving machine, they would have calibrated the suspension with someone inside, or did they? These are things that we'll probably never know, but what we do know is that the Evo handles great from the factory.
So does this mean that when the Evo left the factory, its suspension was calibrated with someone in the car? If so, what were this person's dimensions (height, weight, etc)? If Mitsubishi was determined to build the perfect driving machine, they would have calibrated the suspension with someone inside, or did they? These are things that we'll probably never know, but what we do know is that the Evo handles great from the factory.
Dec 11, 2003, 02:17 PM
#18
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Regarding the rear camber and rotation...
I ran a couple of autocrosses with -1.5 degrees rear camber -- the high end of the factory recommended range -- on 245 autocross Hoosiers (you would be hard pressed to find a stickier tire for the car). And the car had no problem rotating... It was damn near perfectly balanced. And that was with 1mm rear toe-in and the stock sway bars.
If you want to improve rotation without giving up lateral G's, play with rear toe. Just going from 3mm rear toe-in to 1mm rear toe-in really tunes out a lot of the understeer.
I ran a couple of autocrosses with -1.5 degrees rear camber -- the high end of the factory recommended range -- on 245 autocross Hoosiers (you would be hard pressed to find a stickier tire for the car). And the car had no problem rotating... It was damn near perfectly balanced. And that was with 1mm rear toe-in and the stock sway bars.
If you want to improve rotation without giving up lateral G's, play with rear toe. Just going from 3mm rear toe-in to 1mm rear toe-in really tunes out a lot of the understeer.
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