you will need to remove the ebrake shoe for the rear

 

How hard is that

 

Not to sound like a dick, but if you have to ask, it's probably too hard for you to do. IMO, it's pretty easy overall, but playing with a drum setup the first time can be confusing as fawk; might wanna take a pic if you do it yourself. Also throw on some anti-seize when seating the lugs as they will get HOT... and obviously use a shytty lug nut to seat. I used a stack of washers and a crappy socket to seat them.

 

has anyone actually used these yet?
very interested in getting a set as they are much cheaper than ARP! but dont want a stud breaking or something else happening.

scratch that.. they arent actually that long. only 1.77 inches. ARP is 2.85.

 

After 4 track events on the TF extended studs with a 10mm slip on spacer and no anti seize, the lug nuts are still smooth when being loosened or tightened.

 

I like ARPs, plus they have speed-start tip, are actually 3" long, and are for sure harder than grade 10.9... idk anything about TF but I know I don't really like the one dude that posts on forums under their business name.

 

I've had them on my car since beginning of the year. About 6 race weekends and some autox and they are fine. Probably have the wheels off and on at least 50 times. They are not as long as apr but just the right length that you don't need to remove the rear hub to install them.

 

ive had them for 3 years.. ~8 track days..

no problems watsoeva.

 

Just checked the link in the OP. Do they not offer these anymore? Just curious I broke 3 OEM studs at the track last weekend and I need a replacement

Ordering ARP's today

 

contact touge factory directly via phone. last time i checked ( week ago ) they have theirs in stock. think they were either 45mm or 50mm

 

Not a big fan of these studs, I will go with ARP.
I installed a set of these studs and while I was torquing the front wheels to 95 LB pounds on the froth wheels one of the 20 studs snapped.

To me that F@#$ing unacceptable.

All I have to say is you get what you pay for,I am curious where these studs are made and what is their tensile strength.

 

95lb is a bit overkill is it not? But I would imagine the studs should be able to handle that at least. Maybe you're torque wrench is uncalibrated

 

i have removed my wheels at least 100 times over the past year during race season and maintenance and there's no sign of abnormal wear on these studs. i use anti-seize on the thread and torque to 80 lbs