Does anyone know what the taper is on the ball joint that connects the trailing link to the rear uprights(hubs)?

I suppose I need to remove it and measure it, but I figured I'd see what information was available to begin with.

 

p00f!

 

I don't have anything yet, but will as soon as my car goes from the engine shop to the suspesnion shop. I'm assuming that this question is in response to increasing wheel/tire clearance? If so, I'm in the same boat and John Mueller will be setting up my suspension. He mentioned some tricks that he has used before but didn't go into much more detail then that. You can try giving him a call...he might know or have some viable options for you.

 

John mueller can suck it.

 

lol.

Are you trying to just find a replacement balljoint or are you on the quest for something like bump steer etc?

 

Lol, I take it there is some lost love between you and John?

 

To say the least.


I'm fabricating new trailing links so I can clear wider wheels/tires inboard in the back.

 

Damit dude, that's one thing I will be doing shortly. The trailing arm is the one piece in the rear that causes the most problems with running a huge tire back there.

I was going to start to try and find a set of used ones to pick up and use them for a jig...

I might be able to rip mine off this weekend and measure the taper on them as the car is just sitting now.

Let me know your progress on them as fabricating new ones are on my list of things to do...

 

Would love to see what you guys come up with. I assume you are talking about the Y shaped arm that attaches to the body on the upper part of wheel well

 

Nope. The one that has 1 ball joint and 1 attaching point into the chassis, forward of the wheel.

 

Are you making it with more curve to come in at a sharper angle to the ball mount ( more "L" shaped) ?

That would give more clearance where the tire/wheel come close to the arm even with spacers.

What about the front bushing on the arm? That one isnt a spherical joint from the factory is it ? If it isnt you might want to make a delrin bushing or something similar...maybe with a steel liner or needle bearing insert to remove friction and reduce flex

Pics when you get them arms made

 

beacuse I'm weird and I like not having a rattle trap (think 1st gen dodge neon) I'm going to use my Energy Suspension Poly bushing as the front link.

I'll just lathe a moly piece that will hold that bushing just like the oem unit. No heims.

I bought some Howe Ball joints... $$$$

 

Sounds very nice. Pics are mandatory of course

About how much more adjustment will you get ?

Milburn

 

That damn upper forward ball joint nearly took my finger off when I put in my anti toe kit. Had to use an impact on the ball joint spreader...when it popped it sent the ball joint flying up into my finger. I have a nice scar across my pinky knuckle to remind me to never to that again.

I am curious as to what you are looking to gain by removing the ball joint? There is tons of clearance around the joint, and it isn't like they go bad very often. I would think you might create a little suspension bind by putting in a bushing. I dunno.

Paul