there's no need to cycle the abs for bleeding. It is sealed off from the brake system unless it's activated, at which point it self bleeds. If you really think the abs pump has air in it go out and engage the abs a couple times and it should be good to go.

Have you tried manual bleeding the system?

 

I have worked on GM vehicles that when bleeding the brakes I activated the abs pump with pressure on the system, and was able to get all the air out.

Sure the air may not be stuck in the ABS, but the pulsating of the fluid can help break free any air bubbles that are stuck.

Yes to manual bleeding x1 gallon.

 

If you had the system totally dry I did this with mine bleed the BMC and then just engage abs with some hard stops gravel or grass helps. Also dumb mistake but ive made it before are all the bleeder screws at the top of the caliper

 

Roger that.
I have everything installed properly.

At one point in time I had the brakes bled to spec, until I applied them while moving.

Brake pads are brand new. Absolutely no leaks.

 

Man, I feel your pain. I am in the same boat as you. I installed new lines & calipers + clutch line.

Since I couldnt fit my hands near the clutch master cylinder, i removed 2 lines @ the brake master cylinder, thinking "oh well, i will just have to really bleed the system with the motive bleeder" FCK, was i wrong....

Several quarts, 3 different bleeds + motive => old fashion => motive, all felt the same, pedal is nearly going to the floor.

This isnt my first brake bleed....however it is my first with an abs equiped car.

I will look for a gravely road & try my luck & report back.

 

update:

so i located a large plant nursery to get ~40/60 low / mid speed abs interventions on dirty / gravely roads.

after work, put the car on high stands & proceeded to bleed the brakes with the car idling.....

no fcking bubbles!?!? wtf...... if anything, i noticed some old brake fluid appearing in the bleed bottle.

so i blew through 4 pints of motul rbf600 & my brake pedal still suck aids infected horse kock.

i bleed my clutch the same way as the brakes & the clutch pedal feels awesome.

btw, if anyone buys a russel clutch line that comes with a longer than oem bango fitting, have the fkr that sold you it, shove that fitting up his hairy a$$ if he says it's a direct bolt in....., because its not. the fkn thing is too long & you have to remove it, to put the oem unit back in.
if you have lady asian hands, then its a non issue.

thats the breaking point for me to remove the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder, so i can turn that 45 minute job into 45 seconds because i couldnt fit my hand in that tight hole...this is where i honestly believe is the point that i fisted my own ***.

dont seperate the brake lines from the master cylinder on a abs equipped car.

honestly, the brake pedal became slightly higher after the idling abs intervention scenario, but by only a ****** hair.

tomorrow i plan on buying ~1 gallon of cheap *** brake fluid , then crack every fkn fitting open to locate the air pocket.....

 

Sounds like you have just about had it with the brake system! Lol. I know how you feel.
I put another 2 quarts through the system on saturday, and had the pedal only stroking about 1". After I drove it around some, I swear it's at 2" of stroke now, with not one dam milliounce (is that a word?) of fluid loss.

I'm wondering if a reverse bleed would do me good.

Good luck. I'll be waiting to see if you find any air trapped.

 

did you bleed the MC by itself? it can be a real biotch to air bubbles to go all the way to the caliper when they're already at the highest point in the system.

P.S. it makes a big mess, use lots of rags.

 

hopefully you realize this, but the procedure for bleeding the brake lines and cluth line is slightly different.

 

My brakes still suck.
Im putting my car on stands for my turbo install so I will give them another bleed.

I will double check to see if a piston is sticking in the compressed position.

 

Solved the mushy pedal problem.

I had the Motive Power Bleeder hooked up and pressurized. I then proceeded to use a flare nut wrench and remove every line from the ABS Module. It made one hell of a mess, but it got rid of the air.

Thanks!

 

just curious, but did you completely remove them or just crack them open?

 

I backed them all the way out, and pryed them up, until no air was present.

 

I am glad this worked for you. I bled my brakes a few months back and found it went better with my wife pumping than with a vacuum pump. On the rear brakes especially, the connection was just not as snug I think. Next time I will try speed bleeders.

 

What's up with all of us having brake issues? lol

my thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...my-brakes.html