How do you bleed the MC without pulling it off and bench bleeding? When I talked to the guys at motive products they said that may be a possibilty because sometimes air gets trapped in the tip of the MC and its next to impossible to get out without bench bleeding.

 

just like you bleed the rest of it except you disconnect the lines from the MC.

 

Is that also in the FSM?

 

yep.

 

Sounds good guys and thanks again for the pointers. I'm on vacation for the next week, so as soon as I get back I'll give it another try and report back.

 

Dumb question, but when you say every fitting, do you really mean all 6? or just the 4 that lead to each corner of the car?

 

I was having the same issue (solid pedal with car off, felt squishy for first couple inches with car on) and spent literally all day pressure bleeding, 2 man bleeding, and gravity bleeding to no avail. Come to find out my titanium shims up front had gotten warped, so the first inch or so of pedal travel was just bending the shims back to flat. Not sure if this is the same issue anyone else had but figured I'd post up my solution here anyways to see if it could help someone in the future.

 

just read through this thread, the best and easiest way ive found to do an ABS is to throw the car up in the air (or on jackstands or whatever) and then put it in gear, get it up to 25/30 mph and do a couple hard stops. the ABS unit freaks and runs the pump like crazy and actuates all the valves trying to figure out how to slow the car down with it in the air like that, it pushes alot of fluid through the abs block and frees any stuck bubbles on any of the valves.


do it all the time at work on BMWs and on my own evo as well. any time the braking system is open above the abs block you should do a complete ABS bleed or the pedal will never feel right, the trouble is in order to do a ABS bleed on one of those cars you have to hook up to the ISID computer and do a lengthy and incredibly painful bleeding procedure, but i figured out one day that just running the car in the air on the lift and jacking the brakes a bunch of times works just as good as the computer-controlled bleed procedure and saves about an hour. works on my evo the same way.

 

This. I know this is an old thread but we could have bled my front driver caliper outside for a year and I still would have had air. We switched to inside bleeder for about 3-4 cycles until no air then switched back to outside and after 1-2 all the air was out. I'm amazed this hasnt been posted more. We actually went around and then did ALL of the calipers that way in the old fashioned order (furthest to closest of reservoir) but ran out of brake fluid so this morning we are in the process of going back through the "Evo" bleed way (rear pass outside/rear pass inside, front driver outside/front driver inside, rear driver outside/rear driver inside, front pass outside/front pass inside) to ensure by going out of order last night we didn't introduce anything into the system.

Hope this helps someone in the future, long story short to confirm - if you're having air issues try this.

 

Sorry for bringing back an old thread, but Evoscan abs actuation is still not possible? I tried with my v2.9 and 1.3U Tactrix cable tonight, but didn't work.