I recently reinstalled all the brake calipers into my EVO after getting them powdercoated.

I used my Motive Power Bleeder and got all the components full, but the pedal was still mushy.

I had my trusty assistant (GF) run the brake pedal while I bled. I noticed a lot more air came out this way.

I did have the engine running (as the Service Manual reccomends) both times, and went through 3 quarts of fluid.

The pedal is better, but not up to spec. I believe air is trapped in the ABS module

Does anyone know of a way to cycle the brake system without the use of a Mitsu scan-tool, or evoscan?

Thanks!

 

Thats weird I just changed out my abs module, and just bleed it normal. No key on or cycling or scan tool, everything is rock solid. Maybe I just got lucky, I know that doesn't help you any, but its possible to do.

 

I know it is possible, as when I worked for Cadillac/GM I did it several times. There was only 1 occasion I needed to use the Tech 2 to run the abs pump.

I guess I'll just go ahead and buy the Tactrix, that way I can get rid of my EGR / Rear O2.

Thanks!

 

you might want to look into whether or not you can cycle the ABS using Evoscan. I wasn't sure that it worked, but I might be wrong.

 

When searching, I only found one thread that related to mine:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-evoscan.html

It seems like evoscan will not do that function.

 

Well I bled and bled some more. The brakes movement is still way out of spec (.8 inches) I am driving it now for the first time in hopes to get the bubbles freed up.

 

Cycled almost 2 gallons of fluid through them after putting about 100 miles on the system trying to break some bubbles loose.

Any help?

Thanks

 

I have the tool to cycle ABS while bleeding brakes and... well... it doesn't really help as the fluid stops flowing when the ABS is cycled. I too use the Motive Bleeder and have also bled the old fashion way. One thing I have done is use both the Motive and old fashion way at the same time and that has worked. Make sure you don't have crazy pad taper or a stuck piston as that can affect the pedal feel. Good luck!

Dan

 

My calipers have all new seals/boots, and the pads are new EBC reds.

I spent another couple hours this morning bleeding, and went through about 3 quarts more of fluid.

I finally got the pedal within spec (<.8" freeplay")

I was so stoked I could not believe it.

I put all the wheels back on, pull the car out of the garage, and about two pedal strokes later I get some mush. WTF?

It is definitely out of spec now, but it's liveable.

Some other day, lol.

 

if its getting mushy again you may want to check all your brake lines for leaks.

 

are you bleeding both valves on each caliper?

 

That's the first thing I checked. It's good to go.
That's what I thought, but the way it happened wasn't as if there were a leak.

10-4! I have worked on and bled a variety of brake systems as a GM/Cadillac specific tech, and never had any problems bleeding like this.

There has to be air trapped somewhere, because I bled for hours until not a single molecule of air would come out.

I think I may invest in a reverse bleeding pump, and give that a shot.


Thanks!

 

The other little thing I did that helped, was bleed the outside of the caliper, then inside and then do the outside again and every once in a while we saw a little bubble doing that.

Dan

 

I'd like to know how they wet the brake systems these cars with ABS at the factory. I had another car that I bled and bled and got it pretty good but then when I opened a line at the proportioning valve, I found the valve dry. There has got to be something we are missing.

 

I agree. I put the EVO back on jackstands and bled the s'not out of them again just using the Motive bleeder.

I got a decent amount of air out of them, but nothing significant.

The pedal play is still out of spec @ 1.3" of play.

I have no idea where the air is trapped.

I really wish I had a way to cycle the abs when the system is pressurized during bleeding.