Recommend me a rotor.
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 56
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From: Akron, Ohio
Recommend me a rotor.
This happened to my old rotors. Heat checking, can't get anyone to throw liability to the wind and turn them.
So I need new rotors. Rotors that can take the abuse of deceleration from 150mph down to 45mph over and over again for 20 laps w/o heat checking like this.
Application vehicle is a 03 Evo 8 530awhp 500wtq track ***** with stock brembo calipers. Road course, specifically, and light autoX.
Any recommendations?
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Never was a fan of drilled rotors. Looks like most cracks radiate from the drilled parts.
Why not replacement rings?
What ducting do you have?
Why not replacement rings?
What ducting do you have?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 56
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From: Akron, Ohio
I have no ducting. Its something to look into.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Ducting for sure. Evo needs it - bad.
From the picture, looked like dimples go thru.
PFC does have other options. PFC how about blank or slotted options? (PFC posts here too).
From the picture, looked like dimples go thru.
PFC does have other options. PFC how about blank or slotted options? (PFC posts here too).
Last edited by Smike; Mar 7, 2011 at 02:57 PM.
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After reading all the stories about rotors like this, it seems I'll be going down the blank route too (or maybe 2piece AP strap drive rotors that aren't drilled or dimpled but are slotted) and some proper brake ducting.
I'm using centric blanks(OEM replacements pretty much) and I am on my 3rd or 4th set of race pads. There isn't even a lip on them yet!!!!I have been using these rotors for about 5 road races events now and maybe 10k DD miles. I might be using them this weekend for another 1-2 road race events 
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 41
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From: SoCal
Mainly stop and go traffic around town and dragrace. (kidding, but that's the answer for 99% of the ppl who are happy with their brakes without a single word about them)
After reading all the stories about rotors like this, it seems I'll be going down the blank route too (or maybe 2piece AP strap drive rotors that aren't drilled or dimpled but are slotted) and some proper brake ducting.
After reading all the stories about rotors like this, it seems I'll be going down the blank route too (or maybe 2piece AP strap drive rotors that aren't drilled or dimpled but are slotted) and some proper brake ducting.
Really happy with my dba 5000 front/4000 back.
I replaced the rings in the front after 2 full seasons (40+ days/year). They probably could have gone a bit more, but didn't want to deal with a mid-season change.
The car has ducting which helps
I replaced the rings in the front after 2 full seasons (40+ days/year). They probably could have gone a bit more, but didn't want to deal with a mid-season change.
The car has ducting which helps
DBA 5000 front with CL6E race pad for track duty.
Stock Rotor Rear W. Ferodo 2500 track/street.
AMS Brake Ducting
Had no problem running at Portland international 2 weeks ago and was hitting speeds of 140-150 repetedly on the front straight.
Rotors did not crack and brakes did not fade at all.
What kind of pads were you using?
Stock Rotor Rear W. Ferodo 2500 track/street.
AMS Brake Ducting
Had no problem running at Portland international 2 weeks ago and was hitting speeds of 140-150 repetedly on the front straight.
Rotors did not crack and brakes did not fade at all.
What kind of pads were you using?