Montu

iTrader: (2)

^
at first glance I didn't notice anything with the rears, but at this point I can't imagine it being anything other then a leak so I guess my only option is to completely take the pistons out of the rear and make sure the seals and pistons are ok..maybe the amount of leaking fluid is too small to notice with out disassembling the rear calipers?

this seems like a long shot because my rear calipers are only brownish as compared to my front ones which where completely black to the point of not being able to read the brembo on them.

*edit
I replaced both fronts with used but good condition calipers (paint still red dust boots intact even)


I've spent over $1,000 $$ trying to fix this issue and my car is still not working properly ...this is making me sick to my stomach

Montu

iTrader: (2)

I'm starting to think maybe my luck is so bad the New master cylinder I received is defective?

I hate my life right now I'm about to miss out on another great track day.

revvin9k

iTrader: (23)

I feel for ya bro......my Evo has been a nightmare as well....


I may have a solution for you though in helping you diagnose this problem.


Get your car on jack stands/lift and take off your wheels.

Pinch off all of your brake lines towards the caliper and I am assuming if you hit the pedal then.....you will have a SOLID pedal.

One at a time, remove the pinch from th LF, then try the brakes. If the pedal is SOLID from the LF attempt....you know this caliper not to be suspect or bad.

Pinch that line again and move to the next one...I imagine once you get to the bad caliper, your pedal will get spongy again. If it is indeed caliper related.

EDIT: I'm a moron.....you have SS lines....... its what I would have done in this instance as opposed to tearing **** apart again. Sorry man, running out of ideas here.

Montu

iTrader: (2)

My current plan:

I ordered a Motive power bleeder....I'm going to power bleed full bottles of cheap dot3 stuff through each caliper to be absolutely sure there is NO air.

I read some where else on evom that one guy pressurized the system using a power bleeder and then cracked all the brake lines at the ABS module making a mess but resolving his soft pedal..I will give this a shot as well.

I Also ordered a Brake Master Cylinder bench bleed kit to make it easier to bench bleed...
If all else fails I'm going to put my original (working) BMC back on the car and bench bleed it before install as recommended by the guys over @ track hq

wish me luck........

I hope I can resolve this issue on time for my Sunday track day. (already missing the Saturday track day)

revvin9k

iTrader: (23)

^^^^^ Either way keep us posted and good luck man.

Montu

iTrader: (2)

since my system has RF-650 in it, which is 30 dollars a can (60 dollars a liter) can i just re use the fluid? drain it into a clean container and pour it back into the bmc?

shouldn't be a problem right? everything is coming out super clean since the lines have had liter and liter of fluid run through them.

grahamab

iTrader: (10)

if you can pump the brakes and build pressure, I don't think it's air in the system causing the problem. every time I've bled the brakes after replacing a brake component (almost all of them trying to track down my own problem), the pedal is soft from the very beginning due to the air in the system. repeated pumping doesn't ever change that since all you're doing is compressing the air, then it expands when you let off, then you compress it again, etc. if it was air in the system, I don't think you'd be able to get a firm pedal at any point.

does it do the same thing with the engine running and not running? if not, it's likely a brake booster/vacuum issue.

Montu

iTrader: (2)

^
with the car running its actually harder to build pressure.

if the car is off you can build pressure and have a firm pedal for a few seconds while with the car on you loose the pressure you've built much faster

grahamab

iTrader: (10)

it sounds like you're either losing fluid somewhere (piston seals, line connection, etc.) or fluid is getting by the internal seals of the master cylinder causing you to not maintain hydraulic pressure. I've heard people talk about excessive stroke on the brake pedal during bleeding leading to the seals flipping within the MC, but I never really came across anyone actually finding that to be a problem (meaning it might just be nothing but hearsay).

I've still got a spare MC, rear calipers, ABS unit, and stock rubber lines if you determine any of those might fix it.

Montu

iTrader: (2)

LOL your spare parts are becoming mine!

my MC is Brand new and I still have my stock one

but I might hit you up for those rear calipers ..and I hope not but that abs unit

Montu

iTrader: (2)

rear calipers are leak free after pulling the pads.........

next step will be tomorrow when I get my power bleeder and bmc bench bleeder kit

Montu

iTrader: (2)

Bump...any more Idea's to try tonight guys?

Montu

iTrader: (2)

Alright steps taken tonight/morning

bleed like crazy once again...no change

then I
Bench bleed known to be working bmc and install then re bleed all corners (for a very long time) - no change

Tried a motive power bleeder


did not try disconnecting lines from abs while system was pressurized

suggestions?

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

If you fill the reservoir and just pump for a bit does the level drop at all? Sure sounds like a master cylinder problem to me.

Montu

iTrader: (2)

^
already changed it the level doesn't drop it just goes up and down with the pumping