Rear diff options for the street
i wonder if he drives his car on the street much?
the only reason I said you wouldn't make use of the 12 plate on the street is because you said 99.99 percent is street use..so whats the point? on the street you will probably be trying to avoid the rear end coming out with the 12 plate...seems to me the 8 plate will be closer to stock for dd duty while still reducing under steer
I personally have the 12 plate but i try to go to the track as much as i can.
I personally have the 12 plate but i try to go to the track as much as i can.
the only reason I said you wouldn't make use of the 12 plate on the street is because you said 99.99 percent is street use..so whats the point? on the street you will probably be trying to avoid the rear end coming out with the 12 plate...seems to me the 8 plate will be closer to stock for dd duty while still reducing under steer
I personally have the 12 plate but i try to go to the track as much as i can.
I personally have the 12 plate but i try to go to the track as much as i can.
I've always leaned toward the STU-legal diff, as it's a milder approach and I'm a mild driver. As anyone, I'd hate to go through the process without feeling like all the options weren't explored. Thank you for the comments.
I don't think that the diff is a factor in this situation. If the 12 plate functions as a 1.5way diff, then the car should be more stable under braking or trailing throttle situations.
bottom line is the 12 plate is great and you can over steer on command..the car will act different on the street while breaking some laws
the 8 plate should be more mild and closer to stock...less surprises but I'm pretty sure if you went with the 12 plate you wouldn't wreck or anything.
personally seeing how my car is on the street with the 12 plate...although fun I don't think its needed for fun on the street.
if i didn't track my car I would have gone with the free 8 plate
the 8 plate should be more mild and closer to stock...less surprises but I'm pretty sure if you went with the 12 plate you wouldn't wreck or anything.
personally seeing how my car is on the street with the 12 plate...although fun I don't think its needed for fun on the street.
if i didn't track my car I would have gone with the free 8 plate
^^^ That's pretty much what it comes down to for me. What do you guys think?
Last edited by FJF; Jul 28, 2011 at 10:20 AM. Reason: typo
Like I said earlier in the thread, the diff will be professionally built and installed. The cost is almost the same either way. I'd only like to do this once.
Because you have soft springs and big bars you'll be transferring a lot of weight from the inside tires to the outside. With that much unloading you'll probably want as much lockup as you can get in the rear to keep the inside from spinning. This will also help reduce your understeer as well. Its not in the sense that you'll have less rotation but less overall demand on the front in circumstances where the inside rear is spinning.
Its a little hard to explain in text, but with the inside rear spinning you have an increased rear drive shaft speed. The center diff is at this point trying to lock things up and keep it 50/50 so more load is transfered to the front (the diff is tight, front drive shaft speed is trying to match rear). That ends up over loading the front tires causing understeer. Its very gradual on an ACD equiped car but can be felt real strong on a VC car (like my Talon before the rear Max-lock).
With that said, in you're situation I would get the maxlock and use OEM diaqueen fluid. The STU guys make the 8 plate work with heavy springs and light bars reducing weight transfer so each tire has more load to do more work, and the inside rear is less prone to letting loose.
Its a little hard to explain in text, but with the inside rear spinning you have an increased rear drive shaft speed. The center diff is at this point trying to lock things up and keep it 50/50 so more load is transfered to the front (the diff is tight, front drive shaft speed is trying to match rear). That ends up over loading the front tires causing understeer. Its very gradual on an ACD equiped car but can be felt real strong on a VC car (like my Talon before the rear Max-lock).
With that said, in you're situation I would get the maxlock and use OEM diaqueen fluid. The STU guys make the 8 plate work with heavy springs and light bars reducing weight transfer so each tire has more load to do more work, and the inside rear is less prone to letting loose.
^ thats a good description. A better locking rear diff increases overall grip, rather than just creating a power-on oversteer condition.
big rear swaybars do the opposite, you get oversteer mainly because you reduce rear traction (i.e tripoding)
big rear swaybars do the opposite, you get oversteer mainly because you reduce rear traction (i.e tripoding)
Because you have soft springs and big bars you'll be transferring a lot of weight from the inside tires to the outside. With that much unloading you'll probably want as much lockup as you can get in the rear to keep the inside from spinning. This will also help reduce your understeer as well. Its not in the sense that you'll have less rotation but less overall demand on the front in circumstances where the inside rear is spinning.
Its a little hard to explain in text, but with the inside rear spinning you have an increased rear drive shaft speed. The center diff is at this point trying to lock things up and keep it 50/50 so more load is transfered to the front (the diff is tight, front drive shaft speed is trying to match rear). That ends up over loading the front tires causing understeer. Its very gradual on an ACD equiped car but can be felt real strong on a VC car (like my Talon before the rear Max-lock).
With that said, in you're situation I would get the maxlock and use OEM diaqueen fluid. The STU guys make the 8 plate work with heavy springs and light bars reducing weight transfer so each tire has more load to do more work, and the inside rear is less prone to letting loose.
Its a little hard to explain in text, but with the inside rear spinning you have an increased rear drive shaft speed. The center diff is at this point trying to lock things up and keep it 50/50 so more load is transfered to the front (the diff is tight, front drive shaft speed is trying to match rear). That ends up over loading the front tires causing understeer. Its very gradual on an ACD equiped car but can be felt real strong on a VC car (like my Talon before the rear Max-lock).
With that said, in you're situation I would get the maxlock and use OEM diaqueen fluid. The STU guys make the 8 plate work with heavy springs and light bars reducing weight transfer so each tire has more load to do more work, and the inside rear is less prone to letting loose.
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Yeah, any direction you have gone with Felix?
Looking at where I want to go with the next racecar. One of which is an 03/04 8 with very basic mods for TTB. The rear diff mod (or free mod) is high on to-do's if I get one.
Looking at where I want to go with the next racecar. One of which is an 03/04 8 with very basic mods for TTB. The rear diff mod (or free mod) is high on to-do's if I get one.