Hey guys i need a control arm bushing but the problem is everywhere i look says different things with different prices. Some say front inner control arm some say front lower inner control arm or just front lower control arm.. im so lost right now and could use some help haha if anyone could which one is this if someone can send me a link or tell me if the links i have are right?

the bushing: this is the front driver side control arm straight in from the wheel



and these are the bushings im not sure if they are the right ones
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/w...kit-W0593.html
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whit...-9-X-2003-2011

 

Anyone?

 

There is only one bushing on the arm. The other two parts are called pillow ball joint and ball joint.

Have you tried removing the bolt? That could be the hard part. The caged nut on the other end likes to break free and turn with the bolt.

 

Yeah I have removed the bolt it comes out freely but its all rusted and the inside of the bushing is to so I figured I would get new ones and a bolt it looked like the bolt goes into the body it doesn't?

 

If the only problem is surface rust, the bushing is tight and the bolt not pitted, I would do some maintenance and call it good. The maintenance consists of coating the bolt with cosmoline and reinstalling. The other side is probably in the same condition.

There is a nut welded at the rear. Break the weld and have problems.

 

Well I have a horrible clunk coming from this control arm the other side is new I put it on a lift a while back and was able yo move this bushing and pull my bottom of the wheel out a little I tightened the bolt n stopped but is making the noise again

 

If it's a clunking, that's usually swaybar endlinks, ball joints, or too much backlash on the diff.

 

I figured it was my clubs because the whole wheel could pull the bottom of it out. It usually clubs if its on an uneven surface like one wheel goes up before the other. Or sometimes when I stop hard it will and then when I take off normal in first sometimes how can I test what it might be I don't have a lift to use anymore

 

A bushing is two tubes, inner and outer, the space in between filled with rubber. The rubber is not just a piece stuck in there but actually adheres to both tubes.

The outer tube is a press fit in the control arm. The inner tube is a little longer than the outer. When the bolt holding the bushing is torqued to the correct specification, it compresses the ends of the bracket locking the inner tube so it cannot turn. Now, when the wheel rolls over road imperfections and the control arm moves up and down the flexing of the rubber in the bushing is all that is occurring. This is a noise free joint.

So, if you have noise in the bushing, the above conditions have not been meant. As stated above, more likely something else.

 

I figured just it was the bushing because I can pull the wheel out because of the bushing bushing

 

What does this mean? the noise comes from almost directly under the center but more towards the drivers side

and were can i get Swaybar endlinks and balljoints? i can only find rear endlinks

 

Have you or anyone else opened the front diff? I'm guessing prob haven't so the backlash is likely fine. Just throwing out all options I can think of. If you have cracked the diff, I certainly hope you checked the runout and backlash, but basically its the dead play that comes in contact with the drive and pinion... too great of backlash means too much space or play and causes clunking sounds and eventual fail of the gears depending on the difference.
Off the top of my head, whiteline makes front endlinks and OEM mitsu; you need to watch the car being lowered onto its wheels and see if the endlink(s) pop out of the joint, similar to how a shoulder socket would. As for ball joints, you can buy OEM mitsu, I think moog makes them, and can also get roll center adjusters too, provided they're an extended shank variety and not the collared variety.

Just don't go buying random **** because the forum brahs say to, figure out the issue and fix it so you can learn something and can possibly have something to teach us.

 

Can you show a picture of this? Pulling the wheel out?

 

I believe you're looking for the Whiteline W0593 kit to replace that bushing. Mitsubishi only sells the whole lower control arm with the bushings and ball joints attached (around $325). Do both sides and double-check the ball joints while you're there.

 

I only ever opened the drain and fill for the diff. And it was making the noise before I did so. I did that to replace the fluids. I hope I can figure this out the prices are ridiculous haha. And ill try and get a picture of the wheel going in n out.