Hi all,

I replaced rotors(Stop Tech Blanks) and pads(EBC Red) along with replacing
caliper seals and dust covers.

While I did calipers level in brake fluid reservoir never was completely empty, past low but not empty.

I bled/rebled @ least ten times.(Outer nipple 1st, starting @ passenger rear, driver ft, driver rear, passenger ft.

No air what so ever. Using Motive brake bleeder.

Pedal still feels mushy....
Not sure what to do next, any advise appreciated...

 

Let it sit for a day--at least several hrs if you can, this is allow the air bubbles to consolidate and then bleed same rotation but old school pump and open, hold down, close--this should only take a few cycles per bleeder now that you have fluid in the system. It works for me when I have issues, the speed bleeders are good for moving a lot of fluid fast but lack that last little bit. Just my .02.

 

yeah maybe I'll try old school. I'm so pissed, thought I had it.
There are no leaks anywhere.
Oh well it's always best to be humbled...

 

Hey,

When I did my brakes, I bought the Motive Power Bleeder from AMS:

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/M...r-Bleeder.html


It works great, literally takes minutes to bleed your brakes and when your done they work 100%.



-Bink

 

Did you use this bleed order?

1. Passenger's side rear outside nipple
2. Passenger's side rear inside nipple
3. Driver's side front outside nipple
4. Driver's side front inside nipple
5. Driver's side rear outside nipple
6. Driver's side rear inside nipple
7. Passenger's side front outside nipple
8. Passenger's side front inside nipple

 

yeah did it in correct order using Motive. Waiting for a neighbor to come by to do it old school. Will report back

 

FWIW, I also installed speed bleeders (one way check valves) in every caliper. This only allows fluid out, while not allowing air back in.

Here's a link to their site:
http://www.speedbleeder.com/


-Bink

 

Bleed clutch line as well?

 

smike, I was thinking that also.

Did the two man, seems a bit better now, however not good enough.
Gonna wait a few days and try it again.

 

bink, how do you like the speed bleeders?

cost??
part number for Brembo?

 

You can get an pneumatic brake bleeder (vacula) that hooks up to your air compressor for the same price that does the job way better

 

You could try unbolting the caliper and letting the nipples sit at 90 deg. Not sure if this works with an evo but the VW Scirocco was the most difficult car I've ever had to bleed and this resolved the same issue you're having on that car. Are you 100% sure you don't have air bubbles in your master? Also.. do the ABS unit\combination blocks need to be bled? I haven't done a break job on an evo yet but that might resolve some issues for you man. On a few vehicles when I was a tech I purged a few abs units with my snap on tool (modus computer). Hope you figure it out man! Let me know if that helps.

 

I noticed you said that you let the fluid get close to low on the reservoir. In my experience, these cars need the fluid to be completely full at all times when bleeding. Try keeping the fluid at max while bleeding to avoid any air getting into the brake lines or the clutch line.

 

Easy to bleed too.

And I agree, the Evo likes a full res. when bleeding.

 

I really like the speedbleeders, they work well.

Part #: SB1010S

Cost was 7$ per bleeder, you need 8 of them total, so 56$ for the bleeders and 6$ for shipping. Definitely worth it


-Bink