Alternative to bedding brakes, on freeway?
DS2500 has a working temp from 100-1000F. It's not the hardness of the compound you're trying to effect. It's the application of a fine film to the rotor and final burnishing of the pad compound (baking).
Let's put it this way, if the pad is not in the 100-100F range within the bedding procedure that I prescribe to then its not one that should be used on the street. (Race pads don't need that much abuse either. IMO Ferodo went overboard on their bedding).
Let's put it this way, if the pad is not in the 100-100F range within the bedding procedure that I prescribe to then its not one that should be used on the street. (Race pads don't need that much abuse either. IMO Ferodo went overboard on their bedding).
Some pads are noisy, that's just a part of life when you switch from stock pads.
I think the Girodisc Magic pads are like the only aggressive pads that are, well, magic.
I think the Girodisc Magic pads are like the only aggressive pads that are, well, magic.
^____^ <== this is what my rotors look like with the two peaks because the old pads were smaller than the rotor itself causing the "lip" on top and bottom of rotors... Can I still bed the rotors properly even if te ferodos are hitting the "peaks" first?
Yes I've read ferodo are notorious for squeal though I'm thinking what I have is excessive squeal because I didn't resurface rotor and my old pads were smaller than the ferodo causing the top and bottom portion of the rotor to have peaks/ lip
If you are hearing squealing from the DS 2500s you did the brake job itself wrong. The only pads I have ever needed to actually bed properly are the ones that I have been able to bed properly. Track pads.
Every single street pad I've run on every single car has had no issues immediately after change with only doing a few varied stops. And I've run 4 different cars with changing from street to track and back and I've changed the pads on the MINI too (never used track pads on it though, no need) and used many different brands. Never have I ever needed to bed in a proper street pad to avoid squealing/noise. Ferodo, Cobalt, Hawk, EBS (I think that was the name) and Brembo. If ever they squealed or made noise it was because I didn't put silicon on the right parts or didn't put parts in quite correctly.
Now if you're wanting to bed the pads to get the absolute best use out of them possible... Then you're going for overkill on street pads on the Evo. The only reason you should want 110% performance from your brakes is for racing and if you are racing you can properly bed the pads on the track with no issues at all.
Resurfacing the Evo rotors should not be necessary unless you've REALLY screwed up somewhere (most common screw up is pulling the e-brake after hot track or auto-x sessions), the rotors are very very hard to warp because of how thick they are and so the only issue you will sometimes see is pad transfer, which is easily taken care of without a full on resurface.
Every single street pad I've run on every single car has had no issues immediately after change with only doing a few varied stops. And I've run 4 different cars with changing from street to track and back and I've changed the pads on the MINI too (never used track pads on it though, no need) and used many different brands. Never have I ever needed to bed in a proper street pad to avoid squealing/noise. Ferodo, Cobalt, Hawk, EBS (I think that was the name) and Brembo. If ever they squealed or made noise it was because I didn't put silicon on the right parts or didn't put parts in quite correctly.
Now if you're wanting to bed the pads to get the absolute best use out of them possible... Then you're going for overkill on street pads on the Evo. The only reason you should want 110% performance from your brakes is for racing and if you are racing you can properly bed the pads on the track with no issues at all.
Resurfacing the Evo rotors should not be necessary unless you've REALLY screwed up somewhere (most common screw up is pulling the e-brake after hot track or auto-x sessions), the rotors are very very hard to warp because of how thick they are and so the only issue you will sometimes see is pad transfer, which is easily taken care of without a full on resurface.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
UT Evo - Good post.
No, 45 mins of pushing without a cool down will not bed them. DS2500s to not typically have pad material transfer (warping). However, you increase your risk if not bedded for that.
Do you have enough life on the rotors to do just a pad swap? They should have a minimum thickness scribed on them. If there is a big lip, you can have them machined to make true once again (if enough material is left).
No, 45 mins of pushing without a cool down will not bed them. DS2500s to not typically have pad material transfer (warping). However, you increase your risk if not bedded for that.
Do you have enough life on the rotors to do just a pad swap? They should have a minimum thickness scribed on them. If there is a big lip, you can have them machined to make true once again (if enough material is left).
UT Evo - Good post.
No, 45 mins of pushing without a cool down will not bed them. DS2500s to not typically have pad material transfer (warping). However, you increase your risk if not bedded for that.
Do you have enough life on the rotors to do just a pad swap? They should have a minimum thickness scribed on them. If there is a big lip, you can have them machined to make true once again (if enough material is left).
No, 45 mins of pushing without a cool down will not bed them. DS2500s to not typically have pad material transfer (warping). However, you increase your risk if not bedded for that.
Do you have enough life on the rotors to do just a pad swap? They should have a minimum thickness scribed on them. If there is a big lip, you can have them machined to make true once again (if enough material is left).
If you are hearing squealing from the DS 2500s you did the brake job itself wrong. The only pads I have ever needed to actually bed properly are the ones that I have been able to bed properly. Track pads.
Every single street pad I've run on every single car has had no issues immediately after change with only doing a few varied stops. And I've run 4 different cars with changing from street to track and back and I've changed the pads on the MINI too (never used track pads on it though, no need) and used many different brands. Never have I ever needed to bed in a proper street pad to avoid squealing/noise. Ferodo, Cobalt, Hawk, EBS (I think that was the name) and Brembo. If ever they squealed or made noise it was because I didn't put silicon on the right parts or didn't put parts in quite correctly.
Now if you're wanting to bed the pads to get the absolute best use out of them possible... Then you're going for overkill on street pads on the Evo. The only reason you should want 110% performance from your brakes is for racing and if you are racing you can properly bed the pads on the track with no issues at all.
Resurfacing the Evo rotors should not be necessary unless you've REALLY screwed up somewhere (most common screw up is pulling the e-brake after hot track or auto-x sessions), the rotors are very very hard to warp because of how thick they are and so the only issue you will sometimes see is pad transfer, which is easily taken care of without a full on resurface.
Every single street pad I've run on every single car has had no issues immediately after change with only doing a few varied stops. And I've run 4 different cars with changing from street to track and back and I've changed the pads on the MINI too (never used track pads on it though, no need) and used many different brands. Never have I ever needed to bed in a proper street pad to avoid squealing/noise. Ferodo, Cobalt, Hawk, EBS (I think that was the name) and Brembo. If ever they squealed or made noise it was because I didn't put silicon on the right parts or didn't put parts in quite correctly.
Now if you're wanting to bed the pads to get the absolute best use out of them possible... Then you're going for overkill on street pads on the Evo. The only reason you should want 110% performance from your brakes is for racing and if you are racing you can properly bed the pads on the track with no issues at all.
Resurfacing the Evo rotors should not be necessary unless you've REALLY screwed up somewhere (most common screw up is pulling the e-brake after hot track or auto-x sessions), the rotors are very very hard to warp because of how thick they are and so the only issue you will sometimes see is pad transfer, which is easily taken care of without a full on resurface.
I didn't San the rotors down, and file the pad material at the edges. Are these absolutely necessary to get rid of squeal? Also I don't have shims in back but I'm hearing squeal on all 4 corners...
Fixed it... I didn't bed them properly in the mountains... This time I really got on it and after the tenth time it started smelling... It still squeal a lil but a whole lot less... Thanks everyone!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ml#post6515021
2. I do it after ~20 miles of driving. Make sure the rotors and brakes are all good to go.
I believe my rotors had a lip before due to the brembo pads being slightly smaller than the ferodos... Once I properly bed them in per Smikes awesome post, I don't see the lip anymore and got rid of the metal on metal squeal...