The story.

I have 06 IX SE with about 55k miles on her. Used the car for daily driving duties. Last november I retired her from dd and bought myself another car for that. At 17k I changed my brakes to wagners ceramic on four corners and installed all season tires on her, Yokohama Advan S4 in stock size. I also cut all the rotors. At one point I replaced the front rotors with Napa Premium rotors. Other than that the car has k&n drop in air filter, wingless its entire life and a double din head unit. About to do timing belt and a tune up. In few months will need to change tires.

The problem.

Since day one I hated my brakes. I warped my front rotors on the first of few 1000 miles weekend and the car only had about 5k miles on her. I waited until pads got worn out. Replaced the pads, cut the rotors and everything was great for like another 10k miles and again warped the front rotors. Replaced the front rotors and again they warped.

What I am doing now.

I do a lot of reading I did read many brake related threads including many of the Smike posts. So the car was in storage over winter and now I would like to drive it because the weather is getting warm. So I bought myself Hawk HP+ all around and planning to install next weekend but have few question...

The Plan.

I want to try autox. Never done it but want to try and enjoy it on the weekends.

The Questions.

1)For performance reasons, should I reuse the original shims that were installed on the original pads? I geuss I am asking how the pedal will feel with or without them. Opinion needed.

2)I really want the TI shims but a friend who autox his BMW with the same pads makes fun of me says that its not going do anything for me. Opinions needed.

3)Should I cut the rotors again or should I replace with some cheap blanks? Thinking of GiroDisk blanks. Opinion needed.

4)Should I change to SS lines and flush the fluid with something colerfull and be cool or just flush with some DOT4 from Napa and call it a day? Opinion needed.

I would like to get some opinion fast because if I have to order something, prefered do it within next 2 days so that I can get my parts by the end of a week. Sorry for a long post and be easy on me, I dont post much. I am more of a reader.

Thanks.

 

Also forgot to ask. Are Girodisc SS Brake Lines are DOT Approved? Would like to stay legal and safe. Also was wondering if they mount the same way as oem? Such as brakets that holds them or what not? And what color are they? I tried to find some pictures but was not able to, if someone has than please post.

 

search it's all been covered many times. start with "warped rotor myth"


if that doesn't work please read this.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

 

1)For performance reasons, should I reuse the original shims that were installed on the original pads? I geuss I am asking how the pedal will feel with or without them. Opinion needed. You can re-use the stock shims and you should also use copper lube on them, if you dont use the shim or lube it properly they will squeek and make all sorts of noise.

2)I really want the TI shims but a friend who autox his BMW with the same pads makes fun of me says that its not going do anything for me. Opinions needed.your friend thinks your just trying to be cool with useless Ti parts to brag about, however this is not so. GiroDisk did their homework on this and its worth its weight in gold even if you dont track the car!

3)Should I cut the rotors again or should I replace with some cheap blanks? Thinking of GiroDisk blanks. Opinion needed. This is an area you are slacking on and the main reason your having the issues. By cutting the rotors you are making them more suseptable to warpage also. Quality rotors are less likely to warp even in harsh conditions, so spend more on this area and it will last longer!
Contact these guys... https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tech-more.html
I just got one hell of a deal on some DBAs, and highly recomend them now!!!

4)Should I change to SS lines and flush the fluid with something colerfull and be cool or just flush with some DOT4 from Napa and call it a day? Opinion needed. if you plan to autoX you need something that will withstand the heat better. You need to upgrade the wet/boiling point... Motul rp600 is great and yes you can use dot 5.

5) Are Girodisc SS Brake Lines are DOT Approved?
IIRC these are Goodridge lines made for GiroDisk so they are legal and they use the stock brackets and mounts.

 

1) HP+ are going to make noise no matter what. I would get a different pad. EBC Redstuff, Axxis ULTs, DS2500s, or StopTech are good AX pads.

2) Your friend is right. No need for TI shims. Those are for HPDE/track racing.

3) Get higher quality rotors. NAPA = junk. Low grade metal.

4) Technafit SS lines are DOT. I think Goodrich are as well (I run TF). Go with ATE SuperBlue for the first flush. Makes it easy to see the color difference. Bleed the clutch line as well.

 

Incorrect. Dot 5 is silicone based. I think you meant Dot 5.1. Any of the Dot4s, or fluids that say they exceed Dot4s will be fine though (motul,Ate,Amsoil,etc..)

You dont necessarily need SS lines for autoxing the car.

 

I just installed a set of DBA 4000 series slotted rotors along with a set of EBC BlueStuff pads. Wow. What a difference going from the Yellows to Blues. The cold bite is mind blowing and I've had less noise than the Yellows.

 

Correct. Thank you.

You don't need them but its worth changing if your doing the work.

 

Thanks for showing that but I have saw all of those threads plus I work in auto repair field. The problem is the pads. The material transfer to the rotor and that caused the pulsation/steering wheel shaking. That is the reason why I choosed such I geuss aggressive pads because I want to "eat" the rotor awey so that I never ever get pulsationg ever again. Since I am planing to destroy my rotors I really dont want to get really expensive rotors right now since I dont know how bad these pads will distroy them. Since the pad will create more heat, that is why I was wondering about the shims. I also just realized that the shipping of the rotors is really a lot. So tonight I went to pep poys to their performance section and asked them if they carry any good rotors and they do. They sell DBA, EBC, PowerSlot and Hawks. Well he will contact me tommorow about the price of the hawk rotors. I geuss I wait because dont really want to pay for shipping that much.

 

Got a phone call and it is 180 for 1 front rotor and 155 for 1 rear plus tax. I think I will cut the rotors and see how this pad will wear if not too bad than I will try to find some rotors. I geuss no one uses GiroDisk blanks. By they way GiroDisk brake lines are on order. Thanks for helping everyone.

 

why have a weak link or an element of doubt in your brake system,change em

 

Dude... its PepBoys full retail, you can't expect a good price. You may save on no shipping but your over paying.

I wasn't going to post the price I got my DBA 4000 Series T Slots (Front & Rear) Shipped to my door in less than a week, but... $505!! Yeah, thats damn near theft!! Contact they guys I linked above!!
Then order the EBC Yellow Front and Red Rear from MAPerformance (best price I have found or been offered so far!)

 

Well I did my brakes. I cut the front since they were still within the spec but the rear would be under so I replaced them with some Chinese rotors. I also flushed the brake fluid but did not realize that the clutch uses the same reservar. I used Pantiso super dot 4. No shims at all. Could not find the original. The result is just nuts. The car stops very well plus the response is crazy fast. Love the performance. Noise....the hotter the more noise they have. So far I put 70 miles and I need to clean the wheels. But the noise. These brakes makes people turn heads and not in a good way. So far love the brakes but not sure for how long.

 

Ha, LOL. HP+ on an Evo pretty much turns it into a freight train stopping sound...

However, they do perform awesome. Even with shims and liberal lube, the HP+ will still make noise.

l8r)

 

1)For performance reasons, should I reuse the original shims that were installed on the original pads? I geuss I am asking how the pedal will feel with or without them. Opinion needed.

Shims are for pussies. Deal with the noise and stop hard. HP+ may be loud, but I've daily driven louder.

2)I really want the TI shims but a friend who autox his BMW with the same pads makes fun of me says that its not going do anything for me. Opinions needed.

TI shims are def unnecessary unless you are tracking the car. You want heat in your brakes to get them to optimal temp anyway. Guarantee you won't be running them hot enough on the street to fade.

3)Should I cut the rotors again or should I replace with some cheap blanks? Thinking of GiroDisk blanks. Opinion needed.

Don't cut, GiroDisc are fine.

4)Should I change to SS lines and flush the fluid with something colerfull and be cool or just flush with some DOT4 from Napa and call it a day? Opinion needed.

Cool blue is blue because it is easy to see when it is flushed. You could always run ATE Type 200 if you don't want to be that cool. Same fluid, different color/name.