Brembo Slotted and EBC Reds Shaking
Brembo Slotted and EBC Reds Shaking
About a year ago I had all new Brembo Slotted Rotors put on with new EBC RedStuff Pads all around.
Here I am about a year later and I get a pretty good amount of shake when I brake. I just trying to have some ideas thrown my way. I wouldn't think they would be warped. It's not a race car so I don't think I could have got them too hot. I just can't justify paying someone to look at it when the only thing keeping me from doing it is not having a garage and tools at my disposal.
I have a brand new set of EBC RedStuff pads for the front but am hesitant to put them on until I find out what it is.
If anyone might have an ideas I would appreciate the info. Thanks.
Here I am about a year later and I get a pretty good amount of shake when I brake. I just trying to have some ideas thrown my way. I wouldn't think they would be warped. It's not a race car so I don't think I could have got them too hot. I just can't justify paying someone to look at it when the only thing keeping me from doing it is not having a garage and tools at my disposal.
I have a brand new set of EBC RedStuff pads for the front but am hesitant to put them on until I find out what it is.
If anyone might have an ideas I would appreciate the info. Thanks.
I've never had an alignment done since I've owned it. I just didn't think that would be it because it drives perfectly fine until the brakes are engaged. I can't really recall the mileage that it had when the brakes were done but about a year ago and I didn't drive it much during the winter. I would say 5,000 miles or less.
Pad transfer onto the rotor over time can cause the surface of the rotor to become uneven. This is often misdiagnosed as "warped rotors." Does this go away when you get on the brakes hard? Usually, the shaking is most noticeable when you first get on the brakes lightly and should diminish as you add pressure. If that's the case then the surface of your rotors has become uneven.
Try rebedding your current pads and that should clean off most of the buildup. Also, I've never experienced this and I think that's due to the fact that once I come to a completed stop I take my foot off the brake (I use the parking brake if I'm on a hill). Keeping the pad in contact with the rotor while it's hot promotes pad transfer.
Try rebedding your current pads and that should clean off most of the buildup. Also, I've never experienced this and I think that's due to the fact that once I come to a completed stop I take my foot off the brake (I use the parking brake if I'm on a hill). Keeping the pad in contact with the rotor while it's hot promotes pad transfer.
Pad transfer onto the rotor over time can cause the surface of the rotor to become uneven. This is often misdiagnosed as "warped rotors." Does this go away when you get on the brakes hard? Usually, the shaking is most noticeable when you first get on the brakes lightly and should diminish as you add pressure. If that's the case then the surface of your rotors has become uneven.
Try rebedding your current pads and that should clean off most of the buildup. Also, I've never experienced this and I think that's due to the fact that once I come to a completed stop I take my foot off the brake (I use the parking brake if I'm on a hill). Keeping the pad in contact with the rotor while it's hot promotes pad transfer.
Try rebedding your current pads and that should clean off most of the buildup. Also, I've never experienced this and I think that's due to the fact that once I come to a completed stop I take my foot off the brake (I use the parking brake if I'm on a hill). Keeping the pad in contact with the rotor while it's hot promotes pad transfer.
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if thats not enough, after they are completely cool (over night cool down) increase speed to 90mph and do complete stop and let them cool down completely again.
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Warped = pad material transfer. Get the rotors turned. Yes, you can turn slotted. Inspect pads for thickness and wear. If they are flat - re-install and re-bed. If not, put in new pads and follow the EBC directions.
Thanks guys. I am going to try and re-bed them when I get some time. If that doesn't work I actually have a new set sitting right beside me that I'll throw on. I'll try to find a place to turn them but from what I've been hearing is that alot of places won't turn slotted rotors. That bridge will be crossed if and when it gets here though. Thanks.
Which company is recommending a stop from 90mph??? Or is that your personal instructions?
The funny thing about this whole dilema is that I did exactly what the EBC instructions said to begin with. I then went through the break in period where they squeak and eventually that went away like normal. They worked flawlessly up until probably a month or so ago when they started shaking under braking. I looked up some stuff on the EBC pads and Brembo slotted rotors and to my amazement the only thing I remember is on LancerShop under the description that Brembo states about these rotors is "Tired of warping your stock rotors?". The only reason I changed my stockers in the first place was because the pads were squeaking and was barely any pad left. I usually like to "upgrade" if I have to replace something anyway. Just something I thought was kind of funny about the whole situation.
So I called a couple places today and no one will turn them. They said they are warped and slotted rotors will break the bits. This is really started to make me mad since they've only been on for a year. I already bought new pads thinking that someone would turn them and could just put the new pads on. I really don't want to have to but new rotors because it would be like I never did the mod in the first place. Anyone have any ideas? The shaking is bad enough now that it actually scares me to drive it. I still haven't done any panic stopping so I guess I can try that later today. Also one of the guys I talked to said I should have a year warranty on my rotors. Is this true?



