Bigger brake master piston?
Bigger brake master piston?
I hate how sluggish the evo 8 brakes feel compared to my fd with the 929 MC. Are there any mods to the evo to make them bite harder initially? Aside from running a race pad.
There are a couple things that could help. A light duty spring (called an anti-knockback spring) behind the caliper pistons can help a little by reducing the amount of dead travel before the pad comes in contact with the rotor. Slotted rotors can help by constantly deglazing and cleaning the pad surface. Braided lines too can help a litttle too by reducing the expansion of the line.
But mostly initial bite comes from the pad compound. Maybe you don't need a full race pad but a performance road or light duty trackday pad could help.
Changing the master cylinder piston size would only be possible if Mitsubishi offers something in a different piston size (otherwise you need a pedal box so you can use universal master cylinders). A smaller piston size in the master cylinder (relative to caliper piston size) increases the force ratio putting more pressure on the pads relative the amount of pedal effort but it increases the pedal travel. A larger piston will do the opposite.
But mostly initial bite comes from the pad compound. Maybe you don't need a full race pad but a performance road or light duty trackday pad could help.
Changing the master cylinder piston size would only be possible if Mitsubishi offers something in a different piston size (otherwise you need a pedal box so you can use universal master cylinders). A smaller piston size in the master cylinder (relative to caliper piston size) increases the force ratio putting more pressure on the pads relative the amount of pedal effort but it increases the pedal travel. A larger piston will do the opposite.
On the firewall hence being the same effect as the 929 MC on the fd world. A caliper change will still require the same if not more fluid to be pushed to move larger pistons which wouldn't help the problem.
I have had rs4/hp+/stoptech pads now trying to find something with similar bite to a stock corolla and the most frustrating thing is how **** poor the evo's initial bite is.
Infact I've never driven anything on race pads or street pads that have such crappy feel. I've come so close to rear ending people just because the braking not only has crap initial bite, it also is not linear at all. In any other car i'd just increase pedal effort and the car would slow down some more, with the same effort on the evo it doesn't increase the stopping power yet if i use even more pressure it will kick the abs in.
I do suspect if anything it's my stock rotors even tho I had them machined, maybe rotors will help in the case but i doubt it since every other car from stock to stoptechs dont have this problem.
I have had rs4/hp+/stoptech pads now trying to find something with similar bite to a stock corolla and the most frustrating thing is how **** poor the evo's initial bite is.
Infact I've never driven anything on race pads or street pads that have such crappy feel. I've come so close to rear ending people just because the braking not only has crap initial bite, it also is not linear at all. In any other car i'd just increase pedal effort and the car would slow down some more, with the same effort on the evo it doesn't increase the stopping power yet if i use even more pressure it will kick the abs in.
I do suspect if anything it's my stock rotors even tho I had them machined, maybe rotors will help in the case but i doubt it since every other car from stock to stoptechs dont have this problem.
Last edited by Grimgrak; Jan 26, 2013 at 11:05 PM.
This sounds like a pad issue.. Also if u keep swapping pads on the same rotor, you probably have multiple compounds embedded in them which won't help your cause. My suggestion is to go to a more aggressive pad and a new set of rotors. I've ridden in Evo's that wanna rip your face off under braking, all while on oe calipers and stock sized rotors. You just need to find a pad that's gonna give u the feel you're looking for.
On the firewall hence being the same effect as the 929 MC on the fd world. A caliper change will still require the same if not more fluid to be pushed to move larger pistons which wouldn't help the problem.
I have had rs4/hp+/stoptech pads now trying to find something with similar bite to a stock corolla and the most frustrating thing is how **** poor the evo's initial bite is.
Infact I've never driven anything on race pads or street pads that have such crappy feel. I've come so close to rear ending people just because the braking not only has crap initial bite, it also is not linear at all. In any other car i'd just increase pedal effort and the car would slow down some more, with the same effort on the evo it doesn't increase the stopping power yet if i use even more pressure it will kick the abs in.
I do suspect if anything it's my stock rotors even tho I had them machined, maybe rotors will help in the case but i doubt it since every other car from stock to stoptechs dont have this problem.
I have had rs4/hp+/stoptech pads now trying to find something with similar bite to a stock corolla and the most frustrating thing is how **** poor the evo's initial bite is.
Infact I've never driven anything on race pads or street pads that have such crappy feel. I've come so close to rear ending people just because the braking not only has crap initial bite, it also is not linear at all. In any other car i'd just increase pedal effort and the car would slow down some more, with the same effort on the evo it doesn't increase the stopping power yet if i use even more pressure it will kick the abs in.
I do suspect if anything it's my stock rotors even tho I had them machined, maybe rotors will help in the case but i doubt it since every other car from stock to stoptechs dont have this problem.
Do you have SS lines? That also helps by reducing line expansion/ flex so the pads move quicker...
The EVO RS has a slightly bigger piston m/c but is not compatible with the ABS system, You'd have to lose it
The only other option would be to source the RS piston and seal kit, take the non RS m/c to a machine shop and have them bore it to fit the RS piston/ seal.
Have you bled the brakes or changed the fluid that can also help...
The last thing I would mention is if you have an internal leak in the m/c which might cause this issue but you would have a fairly long pedal stroke before building pressure. Still worth a look to check for leaks in the cabin and any sponginess in the pedal.
Hope this helps...
Last edited by WRC-LVR; Jan 27, 2013 at 08:54 AM.
I've machined the rotors between pad changes, also have SS lines. I dont really want a more aggresive pad for street use. All I want is the initial bite of any stock car and for race day i'll full on full bore race pads, none of this semi metallic best of both worlds BS.
There isn't alot excess travel before the pads engage the rotors since they are new pads, I know the feel of spongy brake pad after a track day and this isn't spongy at all.
How are the EBC yellows? I dont want brakes that squeak at all on the street.
There isn't alot excess travel before the pads engage the rotors since they are new pads, I know the feel of spongy brake pad after a track day and this isn't spongy at all.
How are the EBC yellows? I dont want brakes that squeak at all on the street.
This sounds like a pad issue.. Also if u keep swapping pads on the same rotor, you probably have multiple compounds embedded in them which won't help your cause. My suggestion is to go to a more aggressive pad and a new set of rotors. I've ridden in Evo's that wanna rip your face off under braking, all while on oe calipers and stock sized rotors. You just need to find a pad that's gonna give u the feel you're looking for.
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What is the heat range of the pads your using? If your not in that range they will have no bite. Are you warming them up before runs? I don't remember where it is but i think Smike posted a thread on pads and which have good cold and warm bite. Try to get in touch with him.
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