I see the mustang guys use this on their cars to fix bump steer. I'd like to know if there's anything out there that will work with our cars. Could I just go to the hardware store and buy stainless steel ones in different thickness to try to fix my problem? Doesn't look too hard to do the bump steer measurement/setup.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/c.../photo_32.html
I've searched google and evolutionm. Would these spacers/shims work just as good as the whiteline rollcenter bump steer correction.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/c.../photo_32.html
I've searched google and evolutionm. Would these spacers/shims work just as good as the whiteline rollcenter bump steer correction.
codgi
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Did you look into this: http://www.maperformance.com/whiteli...l#.UVkJCFeFX7A?
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Interesting. Didn't know they made them for the rear. What about the fronts? Shims for the fronts would cost $1-$5. Depending on how many different sizes you can get from a hardware store. I'm not even sure if the shims will work as good as the whiteline rollcenter for the fronts. Anyone?Originally Posted by codgi
Did you look into this: http://www.maperformance.com/whiteli...l#.UVkJCFeFX7A?
Evolved Member
You can't just shim up the OEM tie-rod ends or toe-control arm. Notice there is a shaft that gets bolted in-place of the tie-rod end. That shaft has the proper taper on one end to mate up with the upright and then is straight treaded on the other end. This allows you to replace the tie-rod end with a standard rod-end and spacers.
Lots of cars have aftermarket solutions like this and I think I saw one for the EVO at some point. There is very likely an aftermarket kit out there for another car that will work as the EVO has a pretty common taper angle and post size.
The Whiteline RCK does the same thing, but is not adjustable. It lengthens the lower control arm balljoint as well as the tie-rod pivot height. It is not a 1:1 length change and that is how they correct the bump steer. It is pretty effective when ride height is kept within the typical 1-2” lower range. I posted charts in my build thread showing the effect the RCK has. An adjustable solution would be better though.
I think Evolutionary said he was working on such a setup to include an adjustable setup for the lower control arm ball joint as well. This would allow bumpsteer and roll center adjustment.
Lots of cars have aftermarket solutions like this and I think I saw one for the EVO at some point. There is very likely an aftermarket kit out there for another car that will work as the EVO has a pretty common taper angle and post size.
The Whiteline RCK does the same thing, but is not adjustable. It lengthens the lower control arm balljoint as well as the tie-rod pivot height. It is not a 1:1 length change and that is how they correct the bump steer. It is pretty effective when ride height is kept within the typical 1-2” lower range. I posted charts in my build thread showing the effect the RCK has. An adjustable solution would be better though.
I think Evolutionary said he was working on such a setup to include an adjustable setup for the lower control arm ball joint as well. This would allow bumpsteer and roll center adjustment.
Quote:
Lots of cars have aftermarket solutions like this and I think I saw one for the EVO at some point. There is very likely an aftermarket kit out there for another car that will work as the EVO has a pretty common taper angle and post size.
The Whiteline RCK does the same thing, but is not adjustable. It lengthens the lower control arm balljoint as well as the tie-rod pivot height. It is not a 1:1 length change and that is how they correct the bump steer. It is pretty effective when ride height is kept within the typical 1-2” lower range. I posted charts in my build thread showing the effect the RCK has. An adjustable solution would be better though.
I think Evolutionary said he was working on such a setup to include an adjustable setup for the lower control arm ball joint as well. This would allow bumpsteer and roll center adjustment.
I haven't taken mine apart. Didn't know they had a taper angle to them. I'll have to hit up Evolutionary to find out where he's at with the adjustable roll center.Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
You can't just shim up the OEM tie-rod ends or toe-control arm. Notice there is a shaft that gets bolted in-place of the tie-rod end. That shaft has the proper taper on one end to mate up with the upright and then is straight treaded on the other end. This allows you to replace the tie-rod end with a standard rod-end and spacers.Lots of cars have aftermarket solutions like this and I think I saw one for the EVO at some point. There is very likely an aftermarket kit out there for another car that will work as the EVO has a pretty common taper angle and post size.
The Whiteline RCK does the same thing, but is not adjustable. It lengthens the lower control arm balljoint as well as the tie-rod pivot height. It is not a 1:1 length change and that is how they correct the bump steer. It is pretty effective when ride height is kept within the typical 1-2” lower range. I posted charts in my build thread showing the effect the RCK has. An adjustable solution would be better though.
I think Evolutionary said he was working on such a setup to include an adjustable setup for the lower control arm ball joint as well. This would allow bumpsteer and roll center adjustment.
Evolved Member
I went through my data again and I was incorrect. The EVO does not use a taper size that is common.
If you are willing to do some minor machining on the upright though, there is a pretty simple (and cheap) solution.
If you are willing to do some minor machining on the upright though, there is a pretty simple (and cheap) solution.
Quote:
If you are willing to do some minor machining on the upright though, there is a pretty simple (and cheap) solution.
Wouldn't mind doing so. I can get some hands on a machine to cut them. Any specs or measuements or is this one of those I just mess around until I get it right.Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
I went through my data again and I was incorrect. The EVO does not use a taper size that is common.If you are willing to do some minor machining on the upright though, there is a pretty simple (and cheap) solution.