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Side to Side play on the rear wheel

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Old May 15, 2013 | 04:57 PM
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Side to Side play on the rear wheel

Hi

Recently, the car making that whirring noise on the rear. I thought the wheel bearing cause the noise; However, after replacing right rear wheel bearing, there's still a side side play on the wheel. Would please tell what cause it? My mechanic friend told me that the upper rear toe arm is culprit. What do you think about his suggestion?

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Old May 15, 2013 | 05:23 PM
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What do you mean side to side? Like are you able to rocker it forward and back like caster or in and out like camber?
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Old May 15, 2013 | 05:54 PM
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place my hands at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position, i am able to rock the wheel that way.

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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:06 PM
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You should have a friend look at the ball joing movement while you shake it... Or just grab em with a big pair of channel locks and clamp down on each joint... You'll feel each bad one click... You might also look the bushings... If you see a bushing and the bolt looks off center that one is shot... Or it there is obivous cracking then yea..
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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:17 PM
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I rock the wheel, and he saw the assist link arm joint moving and also the bushing behind it. So my question is which is culprit that cause the movement? Is it the ball joint or is it the bushing? If it is the ball joint, can i replace it?

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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:19 PM
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I had some noise coming from the rear, I thought it was also a bearing. It turns out it was worn out control arm bushings. My movement was subtle, but it was more of an "in and out" type movement, not some much side to side.

I ended up replacing all the bushings on both sides because it was easy enough and I had it all apart.

Check out the bushings and see how they look.
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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:25 PM
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cool, will do.
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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jay777
I had some noise coming from the rear, I thought it was also a bearing. It turns out it was worn out control arm bushings. My movement was subtle, but it was more of an "in and out" type movement, not some much side to side.

I ended up replacing all the bushings on both sides because it was easy enough and I had it all apart.

Check out the bushings and see how they look.
what type of bushings did you end up replace them with?

Thanks
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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by a4rontran
what type of bushings did you end up replace them with?

Thanks
OEM my friend.

There is three all together and I believe two of them are actually spherical bearings, so replacing them with regular bushings would actually be a step backwards.

There is a lot of information on here regarding them. Search "rear control arm bushings" there's a bunch of good threads.
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Old May 16, 2013 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by joseph143
You should have a friend look at the ball joing movement while you shake it... Or just grab em with a big pair of channel locks and clamp down on each joint... You'll feel each bad one click... You might also look the bushings... If you see a bushing and the bolt looks off center that one is shot... Or it there is obivous cracking then yea..

Update, my friend used a channel locks and clamp the ball joint on the rear toe link; then we found out that the wheel stop playing while he was clamping it down. So the damn ball joint on the rear toe link is going out. Any suggestion for the replacement part?

Thanks
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Old May 16, 2013 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by a4rontran
Update, my friend used a channel locks and clamp the ball joint on the rear toe link; then we found out that the wheel stop playing while he was clamping it down. So the damn ball joint on the rear toe link is going out. Any suggestion for the replacement part?

Thanks
There isnt an aftermarket part. You will have to get the OEM arm
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Old May 16, 2013 | 07:52 PM
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does anyone know where can i get this toe link for a good price?

Thanks
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Old May 16, 2013 | 08:45 PM
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i wonder, if this unit is the same as the stock one?

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...cat=105&page=1
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by a4rontran
i wonder, if this unit is the same as the stock one?

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...cat=105&page=1
This is definitely what I would do, the only other option is OEM and its more than $240 for one.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MRLancer05
This is definitely what I would do, the only other option is OEM and its more than $240 for one.
Wear will be an issue on this due to the non sealed spherical bearing and the non ball joint. ball joint has much more load capacity. It is why mitsu used that

Look for excellent condition take-offs first and insist that there be no play on the ball joint.
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