EVO 4 life

iTrader: (2)

Im thinking about picking one up

deylag

iTrader: (23)

I have the whiteline front sway bar(26mm) and the whiteline rear sway bar(24mm). I have found through my auto-x experience that the size of the bar is going to make your suspension stiffer in the corners but only if the end-links are setup properly.

I was experimenting with my end-link position in the rear and I adjusted the bar to soft and spaced out my endlinks as far as possible away from the bar. Leaving a safe amount of thread so the nut could be properly tightened.

With this setup I found that the rear end would tripod way less but the tendency to under-steer was high. I have tripoded on the stock setup before and it felt less responsive than the stock rear sway bar. Suspension tuning can do wonders.

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

Yeah those have flatws on the sides to help install.....other than that they look identical to those from McMaster Carr.

Buy them and see if they install easily and work to keep the bar from moving laterally. :-)

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

spacing the endlinks out from the bar puts undue pressure on the bolts and creates angular forces you dont want. I see what you were trying to do, basically soften the rear bar enough but I would not do it that way..

What springs are you using for this,Deylag? What LSD ? What front endlinks are you using? Im guessing the spring rate upfront is not enough and allows the car to roll over in the front and overload the outside front despite the thicker bar there. This will also unload the inside front tire and cause some spin on the inside front. All this adds up to loss of total grip on the end you need it most. softening the rear bar wont really help much as you have not addressed the overall roll of the car. Having the rear tires on the ground works best when the LSD is active and that is under throttle...IMHO. it also requires the lsd to function well which is why the TRE or Shep diffs transform the car from the apex forward and the acd tune fixes the turn-in by unlocking, and to the apex and forward by locking up better

Other than that you might be going into the corner too late too hot, Scotty :-) JK

deylag

iTrader: (23)

Scotty,

You have a couple good points.

Here is some info on my setup:

Suspension Mods

All around:

Carbing Six Point Ladder Brace
JRZ RS1 Coilovers
JRZ Camber Plates
Eibach Tender Springs
Eibach Springs
Spring Rates: FR:600 Lb/in RR:650 Lb/in

Tires: 255/40/17 Hankook RS3
Wheels: Jungle Grey 17X9 +35 5ZIGEN FNO1R-C

Front:

Whiteline Roll Center Kit: KCA395
Whiteline Steering Precision Kit: KCA387
Perrin PSRS-Offset: PEPSUS400
Whiteline 26mm Front Sway Bar: BMF48
Robispec Control Arm Lower Inner Front Spherical Bushing
Homemade Adjustable Front Endlinks
Ultra Racing Front Fender Braces
AMS Front Cross Beam Member

Rear:
DME Rear Toe Arms
AFI Adjustable Lower Control Arms
Robispec Rear Trailing Arm Sphericals
Homemade Adjustable Rear Endlinks
Whiteline 24mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
Weir Performance 12 plate Rear Diff Swap
EM Racing Z-bar Trunk Cage

Suspension tuning is an ongoing educational process for me. To be clear, I only noticed the touch of understeer on maybe the first turn but after my tires warmed up it was similar to driving a FWD car. It didn't have the complete FWD characteristics but the rear had way less response than my previous rear end-link setup.

I am sorry in advance for being off-topic.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

The tanabe is a 25.4mm, maybe I missed it but I didn't see that size on there.
Also,those look pretty beefy and clearance between the bar and the subframe might be questionable. If those things rub couldn't it bind up the natural motion of the bar changing the way it performs?

Ive heard of some folks who have had issues with the small bolts that hold the two piece collar just stripping out or not clamping down tight enough to actually stop the bar from sliding. These folks later ditched them for regular hose clamps,lol
-just what I been told, ymmv.

MTevo05

iTrader: (5)

I feel like sway bars are one of the best mods on any car.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

Ya. With the evo its all about what type of racing and what the rest of your current setup is. For example I have a stock rear swaybar and at this point with my setup, I don't feel upgrading to a larger rear bar would be beneficial.

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

^ same here. I see it too often where people have ridiculous sway bars and don't have the suspension to compliment the benefits of having one.

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

Yep hose clamps can work as well and cheaper but id use t bolts to get a bit more holding power.

Dont ask me how to orient them as I havent tried it

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

Sway bars are or should be the final bit to the puzzle to fine tune the balance of the car. Springs etc first so they are more important.. as are the LSD's

IMHO :-)

Sorry back on topic.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

Robispec springs and TRE max lock rear diff, awesome first mods to your evo

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

I tried using high torque clamps, and iirc I ended up putting them both on the inner side of each bushing. Once the bar was centered as best as possible, the inner section provided the most level surface to put a clamp on. What I didn't like was that since the clamp itself is reather flat except for the screw section, it ends up digging into the bushing and can cause premature tearing. Something like a collar works better as it wont tear into the bushing, but your just more limited to space. Between the firewall, power steering lines, and the crossmember, your limited to space.

Im not saying those collars wont work, I honestly don't know since I haven't tried them. Im just saying whatever you chose to use just be cautious that theres not a whole bunch of room to work with.

EGbeater

iTrader: (35)

My Evo had the Tanabe hollow front bar on it in 2010, and my codriver Chris Mayfield managed to win Solo Nationals in SM class in it. Of course, I drove the same car, and the Tanabe front bar didn't magically enable me to do nearly as well. YMMV.

The Tanabe front bar is indeed hollow—it weighs 7.78 lb vs 10.34 lb for the OEM front bar—but it is not "welded together in the middle," at least mine isn't (the attachment points for the endlinks are welded to bar itself though). Zero issues or failures with mine, and I've driven my car fairly hard on track and autocross for the last two years. It's a nice part.

That being said, I'm going with a different setup now, and my Tanabe front bar is for sale, if anyone's interested... and here's my step-by-step how-to on swapping the front bar:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ring-rack.html

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

I think I'm the only one who has broken a tanabe front bar in half at the weld. They grind the weld down smooth and then powder coat over it so it doesn't look like its welded together in the middle but it is. I suspect they all are.