Also, since the master cylinder ran out of fluid, would bleeding the clutch fix anything? The car dives perfectly fine and the clutch feels normal. The brakes are the only issue since the pedals goes just about down to the floor unless you pump the brakes. I am never powder coating my calipers again lol.

 

I am bleeding the brakes now as we speak and the 1st bleeder valve on the passenger side calipe has been bleeding out air for like the last 25 mins or so. I've already ran about 1.5L of the super blue fluid through it and there's still a bunch of air coming out. Is this normal? Lol

 

No this is not normal. I have had my brake calipers powdercoated and left my master cylinder completely dry for 3 months and like you I had used a good amount of brake fluid to bleed my brakes. However, bleeding out the air in the system wasn't as bad as you are describing.

How fast is the brake fluid coming out of the bleeder valve? Maybe the bleeder line you are using isn't completely sealed around the bleeder valve.

 

if you have a stubborn air bubble you will go through alot. try positioning the reciever fluid bottle above the caliper. Also make sure the hose on bleeder is snug.

 

I'll try that now. I just finished bleeding all 4 calipers and I took it for a drive and the pedal is still soft so I'm going to bleed the brakes once more. There's a good amount of fluid coming out of the tube. I have the bleeder valve open about 1/2 a turn. I got some more air to come out of the very 1st bleeder valve so I'm just gonna do it all over again.

 

Now it's becoming a little weird. I went to bleed them for the 2nd time today with the motive bleeder and now I have very little to no fluid coming out of each nipple. This is starting to get aggravating and I've had about enough with these brakes lol

 

The only other thing I can think of is buy regular brake fluid and flush out the super blue fluid. Once the clear brake fluid comes out inwouldnhave to assume the line has been cleared out and there should be no air.

On the other hand, since the calipers have been rebuilt do I have to driv the car around and let them break themselves in and rebleed? I've only driving the car 2 miles with the rebuilt calipers.

 

how many psi are you pumping the motive bleeder to? I like to be at 20 psi, but with the motive it can take a while to hand pump up to that so usually my ADD kicks in at 15 psi so I stop there. Are making sure the pressure isn't dropping to low?

No and I probably wouldn't recommend driving too much if there is a ton of air in the system, for safety's sake. Any breaking in can be done by pumping the brake pedal a few times with the bleeders closed, that's all if any that need to be done.

 

I try to pump it to 20 psi as well but I usually stop around 15-17. I make sure the container is always full of fluid and the pressure never drops below 10 PSI while bleeding. I bought some regular brake fluid today so I'm going to re bleed the whole system to see if that'll remove the rest of the air. Other than that, I cant seem to find any leaks or any other reason why my brakes aren't back to how they used to be. the pads are still pretty new too so I know those aren't an issue.

 

I've always bled with the car off, but the service manual says with the car running. Does anyone know if this could make a difference for him? Just replaced my front pads and rotors and about to break out my Motive bleeder. Truly like it a bunch after using a hand vacuum pump for so many years.

 

I actually just finished completely flushing out the super blue fluid with some regular prestone brake fluid and the brakes feel much better now. I don't know if they feel the same since I haven't driven my car in a long time but there is quite an improvement over how the felt yesterday. The motive bleeder was well worth the money and made bleeding the brakes fast and easy. I'm just gonna keep my eye out for leaks or anything because I couldn't find a single leak or anything wrong.

 

I actually drove my car today to work and I noticed that my steering wheels shakes when I brake at highway speed. It never did that before if I remember correctly. Is there something that could be wrong with the calipers themselves that could cause the shaking? Or is it time to replace my rotors?

 

Check to make sure the caliper bolts are tight, perhaps torqued to spec. Depends on types of pads you're using, check for pad deposit on rotors; would cause shutter also. Lastly, check rotors for straightness.

 

One thing I just thought of about your spongy pedal and your vibration when braking. When you removed all your brake pads did you happen to note where each pad went in respect to their location on the calipers? I can see if one pad had a taper and now gets put on a different rotor, or different side of the rotor where that surface hasn't worn the same, then the pad and rotor wont mesh completely even causing issues.

 

To be honest with you, I'm only positive that the rear pads are back in the positions they were in before but as for the front I have no idea if I put the pads in the same location that they were in before. Should I swap the front pads then?