Brake bleeding issues
Sometimes its good to just leave well enough alone. If the brakes are getting better for you and your ok with how they are now,then I say run with it. If your still not happy with how the brakes are performing then yes I would try swapping them.
Do you think the pads will bed into the rotors again? I could swap the pads one side at a time and see how they feel. If anything I'll replace the pads as rotors this winter when the car goes away for the winter.
Im really particular with certain things, but when I swap out my street pads for my track pads I always put them in the box labeled whether they are front outer, inner, left or right on all my pads.
I'll probably just let it be for now unless it keeps bothering me. I'm very particular with my car as well but when I took my brakes apart I didn't think about labeling them inside or outside but I did keep them all on the same caliper.
I bled the brakes again today since I had an extra liter of brake fluid and I noticed that the brakes feel a little stiffer now. I'll probably drive it some more and bleed them once again before I put the car away for the winter. It definitely seemed better when I pumped the brakes before pressurizing the motive brake bleeder to bleed the brakes.
Pad slapping street to track pad compounds' is unsafe, and unless you take the previous pad compound off that has transferred to the rotor, it remains incorrect. Sometimes it requires the rotor to be re surfaced actually, contrary to common misconception... It is not just as easy as pad slapping and re bedding.
The only way it is safe, is if it uses the same compound. If you don't, the coefficient of friction becomes inaccurate and unsafe.
The only way it is safe, is if it uses the same compound. If you don't, the coefficient of friction becomes inaccurate and unsafe.
I bled the brakes again today since I had an extra liter of brake fluid and I noticed that the brakes feel a little stiffer now. I'll probably drive it some more and bleed them once again before I put the car away for the winter. It definitely seemed better when I pumped the brakes before pressurizing the motive brake bleeder to bleed the brakes.
I work at Wilwood Disc Brakes.... what do you do?.. Let me know if need any more technical information on that...I'll send you something if you'd like... Any brake manufacture will tell you the same. You just need to play it safe when switching compounds, that's all I'm saying..
Huge misconception and can be dangerous... Didn't mean to sound arrogant in my original post,, if I did.. It is the truth, not BS
Huge misconception and can be dangerous... Didn't mean to sound arrogant in my original post,, if I did.. It is the truth, not BS
Last edited by BEKevo; Aug 11, 2013 at 09:28 PM.
Wait..... so you sell brake parts? Who'd a thunk you'd tell people not to take the economical route.
Please explain exactly what you mean by "the coefficient of friction becomes inaccurate and unsafe"
Please explain exactly what you mean by "the coefficient of friction becomes inaccurate and unsafe"
Did i try to sell you brake pads?.. It was meant to be precautionary advice. Trust me, im on a budget just as much as you are and dont like throwing money at parts if not needed.. Its just about being safe and aware of what you're doing.
Since you think I am biased, I will give you another brake manufacturers' take on switching pad compounds, specifically street to race compounds.. You can remove the street pad compound material with 320 grit sandpaper, its not necessary to turn it.
From Stoptech's FAQ page.
What precautions must be taken when switching from street pads to track pads?
If you are changing pad compounds, such switching from street pads to track pads, you need to remove all of the material on the rotor and replace it with a fresh transfer layer of material from the new pads. To be honest, rotors do not like to have different compounds used on them, and virtually all rotor and pad manufacturers recommend that you do not swap pad compounds on the same rotors. The reality is, however, that most customers don't have two complete sets of rotors, so here are our recommendation for managing compounds between track and street use. Note that diligent bedding-in is the key.
When switching from street pads to track pads, one needs to make sure that as much of the street compound is removed from the rotor as possible before aggressive track use. The risk here is that any street pad material remaining on the rotor will be subject to deterioration from overheating. This can ultimately cause severe vibrations due to uneven pad deposits (a smearing of the street pad material on the rotor face).
Since you think I am biased, I will give you another brake manufacturers' take on switching pad compounds, specifically street to race compounds.. You can remove the street pad compound material with 320 grit sandpaper, its not necessary to turn it.
From Stoptech's FAQ page.
FAQ #4:
What precautions must be taken when switching from street pads to track pads?
If you are changing pad compounds, such switching from street pads to track pads, you need to remove all of the material on the rotor and replace it with a fresh transfer layer of material from the new pads. To be honest, rotors do not like to have different compounds used on them, and virtually all rotor and pad manufacturers recommend that you do not swap pad compounds on the same rotors. The reality is, however, that most customers don't have two complete sets of rotors, so here are our recommendation for managing compounds between track and street use. Note that diligent bedding-in is the key.
When switching from street pads to track pads, one needs to make sure that as much of the street compound is removed from the rotor as possible before aggressive track use. The risk here is that any street pad material remaining on the rotor will be subject to deterioration from overheating. This can ultimately cause severe vibrations due to uneven pad deposits (a smearing of the street pad material on the rotor face).
I will also like to add, if you're running an aggressive street pad, the compounds may be compatible and this may not be necessary to some. So you wouldn't need to worry.
Also do to the high coefficient of friction of race pads, it is possible to take off old street pad material after "pad slapping" and running it at the track. You need to cycle the rotors a few times with some hot laps, then re-bed the pads.. The key is ones ability to monitor the rotors and knowing when the old street pad material is completely removed, before actually racing.
Also do to the high coefficient of friction of race pads, it is possible to take off old street pad material after "pad slapping" and running it at the track. You need to cycle the rotors a few times with some hot laps, then re-bed the pads.. The key is ones ability to monitor the rotors and knowing when the old street pad material is completely removed, before actually racing.
Since we're on the topic of brake pads I'd like to swap my rotors but keep the same girodisc pads because they have alot of meat left. Will I get any vibration since the pads are older and the rotors are new? I would think once I bed the pads to the rotors they would be fine.
Since we're on the topic of brake pads I'd like to swap my rotors but keep the same girodisc pads because they have alot of meat left. Will I get any vibration since the pads are older and the rotors are new? I would think once I bed the pads to the rotors they would be fine.