TheBigD

iTrader: (10)

I am looking into deleting my abs to clean up my engine bay and i know i can just buy the STM kit for $400+. but before i do that id like some info on possible alternative methods.

but my question is, am i able to use the base model lancer master cylinder vs the RS MC? because the lancer one is really well priced.

Also i was wondering if i could just buy the proportioning valves for the rs master cylinder and just install them on my abs master cylinder?

ive searched around for an hour now and couldnt find anything answering them questions

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

the base lancer MC will fit but I believe it is a different size than the RS MC.

Nope, that won't work. when you see the two MC's side by side you'll see why. you could try using the abs mc with an aftermarket adjustable prop valve but i don't think you'd be saving much money. It would be a fully custom setup at that point.

211Ratsbud

iTrader: (1)

I use the base lancer mc in my rs, with a brake booster delete. It is downsized for sure. Never tried it with brake booster. It would definitely offer increased travel which depending on driver may it may not be desirable.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/welding-fabrication/602821-brake-booster-delete.html

Mildly related

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

There are different bore sizes available and the abs models have 2 outlets where the non-abs units have 4 outlets with 2 of them (bottom) being setup to take proportioning valve inserts.

GSR - 1-1/16" (abs)
RS - 1" (non-abs)
Base Lancer - 7/8" (abs or non-abs, drum brakes)
Ralliart - 1" (abs or non-abs)

You would want to use the RS proportioning valves but you might be able to use the ralliart MC to get the right bore size for a lower price. At least, I doubt the proportioning valves are the same for the rear drum brake cars as the RS, the Ralliart might be the same though.

All 4 front lines from the RS are part of the STM kit. As are the line clips that support the lines on the firewall. It’s just the OEM parts put together in a convenient package. The OEM MC I think is like $270 so really $400 isn’t that unreasonable considering you get everything in a kit that you just bolt on and go.

Other option is a proportioning valve setup using the GSR MC. You would no longer have the cross car circuit of the standard setup. Also, do some reading on "the brake mans" website to understand the difference between proportioning valves, residual valves, and other type of values used in brake systems. If you chose to build your own lines, the EVO has a couple different types of fittings. Some ISO Bubbles and some inverted flares if I recall correctly. Been a while since I redid all my brake lines but you need two different flaring tools to do it properly.

ihockey1

iTrader: (11)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...te-kit-11.html

TheBigD

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the quick replies!!. They are very helpful
Definitely helps me understand it all about 90% better lol.

My last question is with the bore sizes... since mine is a 1 1/16" and I got a 1" for say, would i need and adapter for my brake booster? Or will it work with the different size?

I haven't read to far into that link since im on my phone. But it looks like people are using base lancer MC just have to see exactly what needs to be done and see if its worth the hassle. And read up on the link to understand the brake system a lil more.

TheBigD

iTrader: (10)

Id like to get the ralliart or RS MC from an ebay salvage yard on the cheap. Then just buy the lines new. Maybe save $100.

At least I know using mine is out lol

211Ratsbud

iTrader: (1)

Bore size is not relevant to fitment on the chassis.

Hardly any difference should be detected dropping a 16th, an 8th or 3/16 you probably would.

TheBigD

iTrader: (10)

okay sweet. i just wasn't quite sure on what they meant on bore size exactly. i was thinking the size of whatever bolted into the brake booster...

then i realized after i already posted the question that that's not the case ha ha

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

I would assume they went to the smaller bore to make the system react slightly "slower" on the non-abs cars. This means you need more pedal travel to reach the same brake force which will allow an improvement in modulation once the ABS is removed. With the ABS in place, maximum braking force and then letting the ABS do it's thing was probably the main goal.

TheBigD

iTrader: (10)

Yeah that seems to be the case. I found a lancer MC in a local salvage yard for $25 . Bought all the lines and proportioning valves, prices went up a little them were $95. So we will see of it works. If it does ill be pretty stoked with a $120 abs delete!

211Ratsbud

iTrader: (1)

Check the bore size on that cyl and post the year model disc/drum info if you're able to.. Just so we keep Search results helpful in the future.

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

FWIW, Bore diameter will be cast into the body.

That's pretty reasonable on price. I might have to do the same and just abandon the ABS all together. Hard to do though as the EVO ABS is probably one of the least intrusive out there.

TheBigD

iTrader: (10)

just received it today, i am heading to my shop now, ill post back later with some info on it! however it wont be till about june until i know if it works.... big winter project

TheBigD

iTrader: (10)

update: its the 7/8 cylinder, out of a manual lancer. idk if the auto has a different plug on fluid reservoir or not. but the manual has the same plug as evo. everything on the MC in general is exactly like my evo one. looks like everything will swap in and out nicely. the proportioning valves that came on the lancer cylinder dont look like the RS ones tho. so id make sure you buy the RS proportioning valves.. now for the winter to come and go to see if the pedal travel is really that bad or even noticeable at all.