Roll center correction kit for the front. What sprng rates are your coilovers? if the rear springs aren't 20-20% stiffer than the front, switch springs before changing swaybars..

I think tire pressure is for fractional lap time changes, really. I don't think it's something for the average HPDE driver IMO.

For dialing out understeer there are a lot of other places I would start first, for sure.

Oh absolutely. Adjusting tire pressures is not going to yield drastic changes assuming you are in the ballpark in the first place. Its more for fine tuning. Sorta like adjusting dampening. Its not going to make up for improper spring rates but does have an impact.

I just auto-x the car so adjusting tire pressures is simple. Go out for a run come back and check pressures and make adjustments. But for a more track oriented vehicle I could see how dialing in pressures may be a little more difficult. I'd imagine its basically go out come back in bleed out a bunch of air and go back out

extra front castor helps a lot, as much as you can get

What are your alignment specs? How much caster do you have? You have a great car, gave me some good ideas for my 92 Talon
Rick

We've all been "Waffled" again. This is the 2nd thread from the OP where he posts once & does not return. Not even a "hey thanks" for the replies

BTW, Just installed a CAI & full exhaust on my daily driver today. Scion XB 2.4L. It grunts now

my car being track only I run


10 degrees castor( I have adjustable arms etc to get this spec) ,
-3.8 camber and zero toe for the front.




rear I run -2.5 camber and zero toe also

I have seen your front lower control arms on Evo 3. Do you thing that design would work on the street?. I like the design with it being adjustable for caster and camber. If I build a set, I would make them from sold stock instead of tulular tubes. What would be your recommendation?
thanks Rick

no issue to use the design on the street at all

I like the discussion though.

I agree. Could be that guy thats posts up the most basic newb question i.e. "Hey Im new to the EVO, what should be my first mods for the track" He leaves after the first post, & the thread goes sticky due to all the non OP discussion

i posted this in a separate thread but maybe better just to chat here...

can you decrease understeer WITHOUT increasing oversteer, or at the very least preserving stability? or by definition is decreasing understeer = increasing oversteer?

I've had my Evo X from 17k miles through 43k miles as of this week.

The only time that I've experienced understeer was when I was momentarily unwilling to give throttle. After that experience, I'm much more inclined to keep revs near 3000+ in any interesting corner and use the right amount of power to keep understeer at bay.

My most recent experience with new (stock size on stock rims) AD-08R tires is that they are very sensitive to pressure. In the 34--38 psi range, they don't have good turn-in on the street. At 45+ psi they're really hard and almost bouncy. At 42--43 there's a glorious balance of tidy turn-in and gummy goodness. But it still can go from mild understeer to mild oversteer with throttle. My MR is always in super-sport and unless it's the first rain after a long time, AYC brake is off---all the time for a daily driver.

JMTCW

I guess it depends on how you look at it. From my R/C/kart days I see it as a slider with max understeer on the left->true neutral->max oversteer (with lots of gradations between each stage of course). The adjustments you make put you somewhere on that sliding scale. So if you have lots of understeer and make some small changes you can move more towards true neutral but you haven't really gone fully to a car that will oversteer with the slightest input. From that POV then what you said would kinda align with that type of thinking.

FWIW all i've done is install 9k rear/8k front coilovers, adjusted for 13mm of rake, Perrin PSRS, and restacked my rear diff. car is MUCH better.
1.5* camber front
.5* camber rear
0 toe all the way around.
i plan to do more camber asap.