Rotor and pads for track?
I know a lot of you guys recommend the centric high carbon rotors, but how would you compare them to the stoptech (centric) slotted rotors(126.46076)? I know the latter is more expensive, but not factoring price at all how would you compare the two? not too familiar with the high carbon rotors. Thanks
Last edited by jpsEVO; Apr 2, 2015 at 08:31 PM.
Is that 125.46076 part # for the X?
The part numbers I got for Centric High Carbon on my IX are 125.46064 front and 125.46065 rear.
The difference on the 126. part #'s is a 50% markup and some slots.
The part numbers I got for Centric High Carbon on my IX are 125.46064 front and 125.46065 rear.
The difference on the 126. part #'s is a 50% markup and some slots.
Yeah I apologize. The part number is for an x. Was wondering if the rotor material was different or better?
I've been running running premium (120. #'s) for six years with one complaint : using premium with DS2500 pads is squeally as hell, and I'm thinking it's the combo of the soft rotor with this specific pad being used in daily driver mode.
I was looking forward to running the high carbon with ds2500's to see if it reduced the squeal, but ordered EBC Reds for my next go around, as I've been wanting to try them.
Too many parts to experiment with, not enough time and money
Yet your glad to admit it here. hmmmmmm
I only run 350-400whp on track days. It's fast to me. Any more and I would need to make some drastic changes to the rest of the car. I'm not looking to do that. Yet. Aero, lightening the car, and dialing in the suspension are first on my list and will make the car faster than any more power could.
In the end, it depends on what you want out of the car. I'm going for lap times. If you're just having fun then you're good because you can do anything to make it more fun. The possibilities are endless. and having fun is what it's all about.
In the end, it depends on what you want out of the car. I'm going for lap times. If you're just having fun then you're good because you can do anything to make it more fun. The possibilities are endless. and having fun is what it's all about.
I know a lot of you guys recommend the centric high carbon rotors, but how would you compare them to the stoptech (centric) slotted rotors(126.46076)? I know the latter is more expensive, but not factoring price at all how would you compare the two? not too familiar with the high carbon rotors. Thanks
They share part numbers and all. Centric owns stoptech.
Save some money and just buy the Centric versions.
Code:
Evo 10 centric rotors: Front: 125.46076 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Solid) 126.46076 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides 127.46076 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled & Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides 128.46076 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled) - Add L or R in part number for sides 121.46076 Centric C-Tek Standard Rotor (Solid) Rear: 125.46075 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Solid) 126.46075 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides 127.46075 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled & Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides 128.46075 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled) - Add L or R in part number for sides 121.46075 Centric C-Tek Standard Rotor (Solid) Evo 8/9 centric rotors: Front: 125.46064 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Solid) 126.46064 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides 127.46064 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled & Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides 128.46064 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled) - Add L or R in part number for sides 121.46064 Centric C-Tek Standard Rotor (Solid) Rear: 125.46065 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Solid) 126.46065 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides 127.46065 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled & Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides 128.46065 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled) - Add L or R in part number for sides 121.46065 Centric C-Tek Standard Rotor (Solid)
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland
After much trial and error I have found that the best combinations for me are performance friction two piece rotors on the fronts, one piece on the rears, pf01 or pagid yellow pads, and motul rbf600 or castrol srf fluid.
The benefit of the evo platform is the brembo multi piston factory bbk
I would run a quality rotor from the following:
Autozone Duralast
Bosch from O'reilly
Either brand rotor are factory/oem quality with excellent warranties that can be handled at any local store.
Brake Lines:
Braided Brake Lines are a cheap upgrade that keep braking performance consistent over repeated hard stops. It will not help the terminal performance at all - just consistency
Brake Fluid:
I would recommend you drop the money on the Castrol SRF or the Torque RT700 - both of these have low moisture absorption and very high wet boiling points. If you were on a car with a traditional slider/single piston caliper this would be a bad idea - because you would need to bleed constantly from boiled fluid. With the factory brembos the brake temps run cooler so investing in a quality fluid that doesn't absorb water that has low compressibility is an excellent choice
Pads:
I wouldn't run anything as aggressive as true track pad just yet, unless you are willing to tolerate the irritation of noise and aggressive dust. I would recommend Project Mu HC800+ those are great pads for the money.
While I love my Hawk DTC 60 price/feel/performance; they require cleaning immediately after track to make sure you won't destroy the wheel finish.
Carbotechs in the XP series get pricey, loud and crack rotors more frequently than just about any pad I have ever used before
Hope that helps.
I would run a quality rotor from the following:
Autozone Duralast
Bosch from O'reilly
Either brand rotor are factory/oem quality with excellent warranties that can be handled at any local store.
Brake Lines:
Braided Brake Lines are a cheap upgrade that keep braking performance consistent over repeated hard stops. It will not help the terminal performance at all - just consistency
Brake Fluid:
I would recommend you drop the money on the Castrol SRF or the Torque RT700 - both of these have low moisture absorption and very high wet boiling points. If you were on a car with a traditional slider/single piston caliper this would be a bad idea - because you would need to bleed constantly from boiled fluid. With the factory brembos the brake temps run cooler so investing in a quality fluid that doesn't absorb water that has low compressibility is an excellent choice
Pads:
I wouldn't run anything as aggressive as true track pad just yet, unless you are willing to tolerate the irritation of noise and aggressive dust. I would recommend Project Mu HC800+ those are great pads for the money.
While I love my Hawk DTC 60 price/feel/performance; they require cleaning immediately after track to make sure you won't destroy the wheel finish.
Carbotechs in the XP series get pricey, loud and crack rotors more frequently than just about any pad I have ever used before
Hope that helps.
Btw just an opinion here but:
Centric, Stoptech, Powerslot, SOS or any other sub brand are all crap rotors - these are just about the weakest rotors on the market as they all come from the same parent chinese supplier - centric
I'm sure auto zone duralast and bosch rotors come from a large volume source - but their metallurgy, anecdotally, is superior and their warranties are easier to deal with.
Don't buy cross drilled, slotted, dimpled and especially not cross drilled and slotted - blanks for maximum performance
Centric, Stoptech, Powerslot, SOS or any other sub brand are all crap rotors - these are just about the weakest rotors on the market as they all come from the same parent chinese supplier - centric
I'm sure auto zone duralast and bosch rotors come from a large volume source - but their metallurgy, anecdotally, is superior and their warranties are easier to deal with.
Don't buy cross drilled, slotted, dimpled and especially not cross drilled and slotted - blanks for maximum performance
agreed. unless they like cracked rotors (especially the drilled ones).
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: Temple, PA
Best stuff I've run is Brembo blank rotors, and ST43 pads, on my enduro car they last about 6 races (14-15hrs each race) and the rotors last about the same unless we manage to warp one. Cant say enough about that combo personally.
And stay the hell away from drilled, and honestly slotted is a gimick these days, used for venting and "gasses" produced, I havent run across a pad that once bedded, off gasses thats been made in the alst 20-25 years.
Also, youd be amazed at how much jsut getting some cool air over whatever you have right now will help, ducting is the single best upgrade after rotos and pads.
And stay the hell away from drilled, and honestly slotted is a gimick these days, used for venting and "gasses" produced, I havent run across a pad that once bedded, off gasses thats been made in the alst 20-25 years.
Also, youd be amazed at how much jsut getting some cool air over whatever you have right now will help, ducting is the single best upgrade after rotos and pads.
Last edited by Zer0_13; Apr 17, 2015 at 10:30 AM.
I've gone through quite a few different sets of pads and rotors and fluids and had my share of good and bad. Will be testing out more this year, but so far Stoptech and Carbotech stuff has been good. Hawk I've not been happy with. Carbone Lorraine not bad.
All the reviews are here, more coming:
http://upshiftracing.com/product-reviews/
All the reviews are here, more coming:
http://upshiftracing.com/product-reviews/
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