End Links to Stop Clunking
#31
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
What shocks do you have on currently and how many miles?
#33
Clunks are super annoying. Glad I got rid of all my clunks the other week. You'd be surprised what isn't torqued all the way down when yo go over everything. But again, I've taken off all the rear arms for new bushings so I touched a bit of everything including taking down the transmission, xfercase and rear diff.
What shocks do you have on currently and how many miles?
What shocks do you have on currently and how many miles?
#36
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Cool, just covering all bases.
So every fastener that was touched in the R&R process has been checked?
I know, these are painfully obvious things. I'd say that once you feel good about double checking this RSB job, just start expanding the search, brake and suspension on each wheel beginning in the rear then go up front.
So every fastener that was touched in the R&R process has been checked?
I know, these are painfully obvious things. I'd say that once you feel good about double checking this RSB job, just start expanding the search, brake and suspension on each wheel beginning in the rear then go up front.
#37
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
Cool, just covering all bases.
So every fastener that was touched in the R&R process has been checked?
I know, these are painfully obvious things. I'd say that once you feel good about double checking this RSB job, just start expanding the search, brake and suspension on each wheel beginning in the rear then go up front.
So every fastener that was touched in the R&R process has been checked?
I know, these are painfully obvious things. I'd say that once you feel good about double checking this RSB job, just start expanding the search, brake and suspension on each wheel beginning in the rear then go up front.
#38
Evolved Member
iTrader: (23)
Whiteline should re-design these endlinks. The serrated nuts they provide loosen easily after spirited driving even after using blue loctite. They should have flats on the spherical side so you don't have to use a 5mm allen wrench to get them started or tightened. DIY endlinks are cheaper and easier to work and so you can choose to build them with tougher sphericals. After putting these in on my friends Evo he is getting a similar clunking noise.
Somehow my local Home Depot didn't have the M10x1.25 Nylon lock nut that I felt should replace the serrated ones they send you. McMaster Carr will have them and if those nuts are going to be ordered from there I might as well order hardware for a set of DIY front endlinks.
Somehow my local Home Depot didn't have the M10x1.25 Nylon lock nut that I felt should replace the serrated ones they send you. McMaster Carr will have them and if those nuts are going to be ordered from there I might as well order hardware for a set of DIY front endlinks.
I happen to have a set waiting to go on the car. It's a 5mm, or at least thats the metric size that fits. It might be standard. While the instructions don't say it, the nuts kind of feel like the one time use types. So if they keep coming loose you might try replacing them.
#39
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
I really like these endlinks. We've had great success with them @ work, very durable over the long term. I'm not sure they've done any marketing in the Evo realm. Kinda too bad, it's a great product.
https://www.powergridinc.com/
https://www.powergridinc.com/
#43
Evolved Member
iTrader: (23)
DIY page for reference. https://www.cs.unm.edu/~donour/cars/evo_endlinks/
#44
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
DIY page for reference. https://www.cs.unm.edu/~donour/cars/evo_endlinks/
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Apex Hunter (Apr 26, 2019)
#45
Evolved Member
I had a similar issue that turned out to be loose rear subframe bolts (front subframe).. the large ones holding the suspension arm.. We tightened them with the gun but they really do need to be tq'd with a propper wrench to spec torque.. (160 Nm IIRC but check the manual)