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i know what you're talking about, i've had those way too loose in the past. given the before/after noise, i figure it wouldn't be that but can't hurt to make sure they're snug anyway, thanks.
Clunks are super annoying. Glad I got rid of all my clunks the other week. You'd be surprised what isn't torqued all the way down when yo go over everything. But again, I've taken off all the rear arms for new bushings so I touched a bit of everything including taking down the transmission, xfercase and rear diff.
What shocks do you have on currently and how many miles?
Clunks are super annoying. Glad I got rid of all my clunks the other week. You'd be surprised what isn't torqued all the way down when yo go over everything. But again, I've taken off all the rear arms for new bushings so I touched a bit of everything including taking down the transmission, xfercase and rear diff.
What shocks do you have on currently and how many miles?
Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts
Also you installed a rebuilt rear diff right?
shocks - 15k miles or so. rear diff is an OSG, recently installed. no clunks until before & after sway bar being the only change though
So every fastener that was touched in the R&R process has been checked?
I know, these are painfully obvious things. I'd say that once you feel good about double checking this RSB job, just start expanding the search, brake and suspension on each wheel beginning in the rear then go up front.
So every fastener that was touched in the R&R process has been checked?
I know, these are painfully obvious things. I'd say that once you feel good about double checking this RSB job, just start expanding the search, brake and suspension on each wheel beginning in the rear then go up front.
Agreed. I'm thinking something related... and somewhat coincidental. Hopefully it's one of those "ah, hell. Is that all it was??" things.
Whiteline should re-design these endlinks. The serrated nuts they provide loosen easily after spirited driving even after using blue loctite. They should have flats on the spherical side so you don't have to use a 5mm allen wrench to get them started or tightened. DIY endlinks are cheaper and easier to work and so you can choose to build them with tougher sphericals. After putting these in on my friends Evo he is getting a similar clunking noise.
Somehow my local Home Depot didn't have the M10x1.25 Nylon lock nut that I felt should replace the serrated ones they send you. McMaster Carr will have them and if those nuts are going to be ordered from there I might as well order hardware for a set of DIY front endlinks.
Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
I happen to have a set waiting to go on the car. It's a 5mm, or at least thats the metric size that fits. It might be standard. While the instructions don't say it, the nuts kind of feel like the one time use types. So if they keep coming loose you might try replacing them.
I really like these endlinks. We've had great success with them @ work, very durable over the long term. I'm not sure they've done any marketing in the Evo realm. Kinda too bad, it's a great product. https://www.powergridinc.com/
I made my own and have had zero problems. They seem to be a bit better quality than most links. Not having to remove them to adjust is a bonus. I even have carbon fiber bushings for the sphericals.
I vote DIY so you can do your own quality control.
situation similar in the front, what should i be looking to do?
i gotta get rid of this clunk guys it's killing me.
I had a similar issue that turned out to be loose rear subframe bolts (front subframe).. the large ones holding the suspension arm.. We tightened them with the gun but they really do need to be tq'd with a propper wrench to spec torque.. (160 Nm IIRC but check the manual)
Cool, just covering all bases.
