Suspension Refresh, question though..
Jul 15, 2019, 08:50 AM
#16
This is a great idea, never thought about it. I think what I will do is measure the center of the hub to the fender at ride height. Then put the car on jack stands, push the hub up with a jack so the distance from center hub to fender is the same, loosen all the control arm bolts and re-torque to factory specs. Does this sound about right based on your recommendation?
Last edited by u189961; Jul 15, 2019 at 09:20 AM.
Jul 15, 2019, 10:14 AM
#18
EvoM Community Team Leader
Jul 15, 2019, 10:47 AM
#19
I was not able to replace the front upper control arm bushing with the dogbone, I just couldn't get enough leverage on the arm as there is not a lot of material in that area and didn't want to bend the arm. That particular bushing seemed fine, it had no play whatsoever and it appeared to be bonded to the arm. I may revisit this and get it done, I think I might need to torch it off.
Jul 16, 2019, 07:28 AM
#21
I was able to re-torque everything down at ride height with your suggestion, it worked great! I measured 13 inches from center hub to fender so I matched that up with the car in the air, was kind of scary having the car that high in the air but I threw the tire under the car and added 2 additional jack stands for safety lol. The car feels a lot better and not as bouncy in the rear!
Jul 16, 2019, 07:52 AM
#22
I also noticed the rear passenger OEM strut leaking. I may need to replace sooner than anticipated. For now, my car is my daily and on average doing about 2-3 track days a year. I am currently on swift springs, whiteline rear sway bar, whiteline front RCK, all new bushings and new ball joints all the way around (fronts will be completed this weekend). What are your thoughts on the following?
Ohlin's Road and Track - I originally planned on going with these sometime before end of year, yes they are expensive but I'm sure worth it. How long can you daily these before having to service them? What is the average cost to have them serviced when the time comes? Would these be overkill for my needs?
Bilstein B6 - I read good things about these and a lot of people running these based on my reading. How do they handle for daily and track duty?
Bilstein B8 - Valving should be the same as the B6 but these are supposed to be for cars running springs where the car is lowered. I was not able to find too much information on these.
I am trying to get feedback based on my needs and I don't have any experience with the above. I worked out the math and going with Bilstein struts would be about $1000 cheaper. I can use that $1000 towards by next phase which would be a motor build. Thanks for any feedback!
Ohlin's Road and Track - I originally planned on going with these sometime before end of year, yes they are expensive but I'm sure worth it. How long can you daily these before having to service them? What is the average cost to have them serviced when the time comes? Would these be overkill for my needs?
Bilstein B6 - I read good things about these and a lot of people running these based on my reading. How do they handle for daily and track duty?
Bilstein B8 - Valving should be the same as the B6 but these are supposed to be for cars running springs where the car is lowered. I was not able to find too much information on these.
I am trying to get feedback based on my needs and I don't have any experience with the above. I worked out the math and going with Bilstein struts would be about $1000 cheaper. I can use that $1000 towards by next phase which would be a motor build. Thanks for any feedback!
Jul 22, 2019, 08:43 AM
#23
Whiteline RCK, Superpro front bushing and Superpro spherical rear bushing in! I was able to finish the front this Saturday, not nearly as time consuming as the rear. The toe was way off after the install so I did a quick alignment until my performance alignment appointment this Wednesday.
On Sunday, I fixed a mistake I made when I was working on the rear. The weekend before last when reinstalling the rear driver upper control arm, like an idiot I started the bolt that goes through the dogbone in the front bushing with my impact gun and messed up the thread. I tried forcing the bolt in by hand and it ended up snapping. So I drilled it out, tapped new threads and replaced the bolt with an OEM one. Since the upper control arm was off, I decided to try again at replacing the front upper control arm bushing since it was giving me a hard time. I sourced a sleeve of the correct diameter to support the arm and worked great. I was able to press out the old bushing and press a new Superpro in. I went ahead and did the other upper control arm bushing.
Happy to know I was able to do all the bushings and ball joints and it saved me quite a bit of money, now I know why labor was so costly as it was time consuming. The car feels really nice now, before it felt sloppy and loose. Now it feels like its on rails. I haven't really hit some corners since I'm waiting for my alignment but will report back once that is done. Now I can resume my regular weekends as the last two were spent working on the car lol.
On Sunday, I fixed a mistake I made when I was working on the rear. The weekend before last when reinstalling the rear driver upper control arm, like an idiot I started the bolt that goes through the dogbone in the front bushing with my impact gun and messed up the thread. I tried forcing the bolt in by hand and it ended up snapping. So I drilled it out, tapped new threads and replaced the bolt with an OEM one. Since the upper control arm was off, I decided to try again at replacing the front upper control arm bushing since it was giving me a hard time. I sourced a sleeve of the correct diameter to support the arm and worked great. I was able to press out the old bushing and press a new Superpro in. I went ahead and did the other upper control arm bushing.
Happy to know I was able to do all the bushings and ball joints and it saved me quite a bit of money, now I know why labor was so costly as it was time consuming. The car feels really nice now, before it felt sloppy and loose. Now it feels like its on rails. I haven't really hit some corners since I'm waiting for my alignment but will report back once that is done. Now I can resume my regular weekends as the last two were spent working on the car lol.
Last edited by u189961; Jul 22, 2019 at 09:04 AM.
Jul 22, 2019, 12:42 PM
#25
Evolving Member
I certainly would never recommend the rear bumpsteer bushing. That design is just a massive pile of dung. Theres nothing to clock it and as you adjusts toe, it also turns away from where you're trying to move the toe. So you need to make sure its clocked right and only adjust toe with tire in the air (unloaded) and even then you cant actually verify if the bushing has moved.
On top of that, it might as well be zero adjustment. The offset is so small that the actual effect on bumps steer is just about nill.
So since its basically useless but makes toe adjustment worse, 100% dont bother.
For the WL RCK, its only 5mm of adjustment so in normal WL fashion the name implies more than the result effects. But, it is a good joint so if your's are bad/old/worn, its a bit of a spendy replacement but a fine joint that should last well enough. If you add caster with the lower control arm rear bushing or strut top caster plate, use the OEM tie rod and not the WL part in their kit. Adding caster increase bumpsteer (moves relative position of steering pivot and lower ball joint). Using the OEM tie rod counters that at least a bit being 5mm shorter than the WL tie rod.
On top of that, it might as well be zero adjustment. The offset is so small that the actual effect on bumps steer is just about nill.
So since its basically useless but makes toe adjustment worse, 100% dont bother.
For the WL RCK, its only 5mm of adjustment so in normal WL fashion the name implies more than the result effects. But, it is a good joint so if your's are bad/old/worn, its a bit of a spendy replacement but a fine joint that should last well enough. If you add caster with the lower control arm rear bushing or strut top caster plate, use the OEM tie rod and not the WL part in their kit. Adding caster increase bumpsteer (moves relative position of steering pivot and lower ball joint). Using the OEM tie rod counters that at least a bit being 5mm shorter than the WL tie rod.
Jul 30, 2019, 02:28 PM
#27
I'm selling the Ohlins R/T you need at https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/market/754944
The service interval for hard daily driving is around 20k. The bushes are side loaded in a MacPherson strut design and they eventually wear and start clunking. You can rotate the uppers to even out the bush wear. Cost to refresh to as new condition .... see my ad!
The service interval for hard daily driving is around 20k. The bushes are side loaded in a MacPherson strut design and they eventually wear and start clunking. You can rotate the uppers to even out the bush wear. Cost to refresh to as new condition .... see my ad!
Last edited by CDrinkH2O; Jul 30, 2019 at 02:35 PM.
Aug 21, 2019, 12:13 PM
#28
For the WL RCK, its only 5mm of adjustment so in normal WL fashion the name implies more than the result effects. But, it is a good joint so if your's are bad/old/worn, its a bit of a spendy replacement but a fine joint that should last well enough. If you add caster with the lower control arm rear bushing or strut top caster plate, use the OEM tie rod and not the WL part in their kit. Adding caster increase bumpsteer (moves relative position of steering pivot and lower ball joint). Using the OEM tie rod counters that at least a bit being 5mm shorter than the WL tie rod.
Aug 22, 2019, 08:42 AM
#29
So since I have your camber/caster plates with the caster bushing on the lower control arm rear bushing, should I not use whiteline tie rods? I noticed when cornering, if I hit a little bump I get pretty bad bump steer. Will this help alleviate that if I switched to oem tie rods?
Aug 30, 2019, 10:07 AM
#30
I was able to re-torque everything down at ride height with your suggestion, it worked great! I measured 13 inches from center hub to fender so I matched that up with the car in the air, was kind of scary having the car that high in the air but I threw the tire under the car and added 2 additional jack stands for safety lol. The car feels a lot better and not as bouncy in the rear!