my brakes!
To let you know I am a brake engineer for a large Automotive supplier. I see this everyday. We call this problem NVH(Noise Vibration Harshness) and it is very common. Especially for performance brakes.
The "squealing" is normal. Its very common with a high mu(coefficient of friction) lining material. Newer brakes will make more noise too, they need to be burnished to cure and mate up with the rotor. Both materials of the rotor and the linings eventually match each other. My EVO makes noises too.
Its like a low oooooooooooo
rather than an eeeeeeeeeeeee
If you know what I mean.
The only time you have to worry about brakes being worn is when the squealing occurrs during non applies. Or even worse....grinding........
Hope this helps
The "squealing" is normal. Its very common with a high mu(coefficient of friction) lining material. Newer brakes will make more noise too, they need to be burnished to cure and mate up with the rotor. Both materials of the rotor and the linings eventually match each other. My EVO makes noises too.
Its like a low oooooooooooo
rather than an eeeeeeeeeeeee
If you know what I mean.
The only time you have to worry about brakes being worn is when the squealing occurrs during non applies. Or even worse....grinding........
Hope this helps
Last edited by BRKENG; Apr 23, 2004 at 03:09 PM.
Ah, this helps a whole lot, I thought there was something that was wrong with my brakes since they were squeaking, but now I realize that they do feel a little bit different, just slightly, and the squeaking has for the most part stopped. Thanks alot!
...it is very common. Especially for performance brakes.
...Its very common with a high mu(coefficient of friction) lining material. Newer brakes will make more noise too, they need to be burnished to cure and mate up with the rotor. Both materials of the rotor and the linings eventually match each other. My EVO makes noises too.
...Its very common with a high mu(coefficient of friction) lining material. Newer brakes will make more noise too, they need to be burnished to cure and mate up with the rotor. Both materials of the rotor and the linings eventually match each other. My EVO makes noises too.
Matt<--still pissed.....
The more you drive the car, the more you get used to breaking in such a way that the brakes don't squeak.. i would much rather have these brakes that squeak on occassion just because of the braking being done more rougly than having brakes that are silent but don't perform as well
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what we did at the shop i used to work at, we would inspect the brakes and if still good just grind them a bit and no more squeaks, not the smartest way, but it gets the job done, i had alot of ppl look at my evo and say the piece of junk brakes is squeaking!! and that made me really mad!!! lol (btw ive never done this on an evo, only pickups and suv's)
Originally Posted by BRKENG
To let you know I am a brake engineer for a large Automotive supplier. I see this everyday. We call this problem NVH(Noise Vibration Harshness) and it is very common. Especially for performance brakes.
The "squealing" is normal. Its very common with a high mu(coefficient of friction) lining material. Newer brakes will make more noise too, they need to be burnished to cure and mate up with the rotor. Both materials of the rotor and the linings eventually match each other. My EVO makes noises too.
Its like a low oooooooooooo
rather than an eeeeeeeeeeeee
If you know what I mean.
The only time you have to worry about brakes being worn is when the squealing occurrs during non applies. Or even worse....grinding........
Hope this helps
The "squealing" is normal. Its very common with a high mu(coefficient of friction) lining material. Newer brakes will make more noise too, they need to be burnished to cure and mate up with the rotor. Both materials of the rotor and the linings eventually match each other. My EVO makes noises too.
Its like a low oooooooooooo
rather than an eeeeeeeeeeeee
If you know what I mean.
The only time you have to worry about brakes being worn is when the squealing occurrs during non applies. Or even worse....grinding........
Hope this helps

Generally for street driving you want to be quick and firm with the brake, but not a danger to the cars around you. Diving to the ABS point would be "right out".
Lightly dragging the brake pedal over a longer distance will generally cause more heat, more dust and more material transfer. If you add that to holding your foot on the brake after stopping you increase the likelyhood of material transfer even more. That isn't an absolute, but it's kind of a guide.
Lightly dragging the brake pedal over a longer distance will generally cause more heat, more dust and more material transfer. If you add that to holding your foot on the brake after stopping you increase the likelyhood of material transfer even more. That isn't an absolute, but it's kind of a guide.
When I was bedding in my new pads and rotors, I did 5 consecutive 50-0 stops (hard on the ABS to where the car shuddered and almost locked up). Then I let it cool for a couple of minutes and repeated the effort. When I was done, they were smoking a little, but now they are great. I drove hard on them on Sunday (120+ miles with TONS of hard braking points) and they performed flawlessly. Don't baby them when you bed them in...
Originally Posted by Chris in HB
When I was bedding in my new pads and rotors, I did 5 consecutive 50-0 stops (hard on the ABS to where the car shuddered and almost locked up). Then I let it cool for a couple of minutes and repeated the effort. When I was done, they were smoking a little, but now they are great. I drove hard on them on Sunday (120+ miles with TONS of hard braking points) and they performed flawlessly. Don't baby them when you bed them in...
I heard mix messages, especially when the factory manual tells you to take it easy for the first 700 miles.
As a brake engineer I have never heard of beating on new linings to break them in. When we use new linings we "burnish" them for 500 miles, this means medium g stops at specific intervals, 50-0 hard decel(.6g+) stops are not advised. They require curing for optimum material effectiveness and longevity. I would not advise to go out and wrench on your brakes after installing them. Unless of course you plan on changing them every 5000 miles. Then the sky is the limit I guess if money is no object. Normal city driving for 500 miles is plenty break in for new linings and rotors. Just drive around the city as usual. Our burnishing of new brake linings and rotors mimics normal city driving.
Last edited by BRKENG; May 18, 2004 at 01:32 PM.
Our testing is purely for passenger car development and not pure racing applications. It could be that those specific linings and rotors need that sort of heat and abuse to break them in. Unfortunately my knowledge of hard core racing brake is limited since I prmarily worry about endurance/milage/pedal feel for anything from a Mustang to a E-350 Church van. I misunderstood that you were just replacing a stock system with oem replacements, but i suspect your replacing with a racing/performance setup. I do know that for every day driving that performance/racing systems aren't the best for pedal feel, because racing systems love to be heated up and thats when they are more effective.



