the pads were on fire - when I stopped in the pits after 4-5 full speed laps (to get disc temperatures) the latent heat of the disc touching the pads caused them to ignite. Its the "glues" that bond the pad material that was actually burning. They were not burning while I was driving around the track.... disc details will be released after final testing.

 

we get flame outs stopping on all stock equipment as well. even a short stop without giving ample cooling results in pad transfer with stock pads. Usually within 2 corners though we have scrubbed anything off that happened during a quick pit stop. after coming off course we still give a good 4-5 minute 50 mph cooling drive to keep pads from frying onto the rotors.

DId you get any shimmy shake after that pic was taken? do they 3000s do well at not transferrig material?

 

How was the brake bias with running different pads on the front and rear. With the 2500's on the rear I would imagine after full warm up it would be heavily front bias. What was your experience since OBVIOUSLY you got the system warm enough.

 

The balance is good, the ABS acts as a proportioning valve of sorts. If I disable the ABS there might be more of a balance difference by using different compounds front and rear. The rear temps never get very hot - so its not much of an issue.

 

The brakes felt the same regarless of temp. The DS3000's transfer pad material onto the rotors - as do all pads. This is how brake pads, especially racing brake pads, work. By properly bedding the discs you are depositing pad material into the pores of the disc material. The friction of pad to pad material is much greater than pad to disc - lesson......bed those pads in proper kids!

The reason people get uneven pad transfer is because of improper bedding or not cleaning the disc when switching pads. Some pads just DO NOT like to lay material onto other brake pad compounds. So if you are switching pads often make sure that they are compatible with eachother (i.e. Ferodo ds3000 and 2500) Usually using the same pad manufacturer is a good idea. Trying to switch pads on an already "spotted" disc will cause you much frustration.

 

What is your recommendation on "cleaning the disc" between pads? I have Project MU Titan Kai's on (after a fresh turn and a proper beding) and they are a bit too extreme for AutoX (great for track days). They squeel heavily under slow or soft braking so I plan on switching the pads out with B-force or another brand all together. Thanks.

 

Cleaning the discs requires either turning (machining) them, or carefully and evenly buffing the old pad material off with a 3M roloc disc or scotchbrite disc on an air grinder - NOT fun to do!!!

all projectMU pads should be compatible with eachother. You might want to get a set of street pads by the same manufacturer.....much easier than cleaning the discs.

Jason

 

Now that I find amazing! I have the DS2500's on my car right now also....have no complaints! But if I turned my Brembos brown, I wouldn't be able to deal. I'd have to remove the calipers, strip em and paint them black. Brown and yellow only looked good together in the 1970's...huhu

SC~

 

well, do they stay that brown/yellow color after the calipers cool off??

 

Stays that way... the paint is actually "cooked/burned".

 

Its like a battle Scar... lets everyone know you mean business when driving.

 

Is there a how-to on bedding in pads?

 

You can actually clean the discs at home by using 60 grit sandpaper and giving them a good scrubdown. This will remove the embedded pad material without needing to re-surface the rotors.

 

I thought everyone had brownbos within a week.. I guess some folks still don't know just how well and Evo stands on it's nose.

 

^ = Golden Quote Award