After a long canyon run last weekend I decided to bleed the brakes and swap over to ATE Super Blue. I had my buddy man the bleeders while we bled and filled till all blue came out without any oxygen. Order of bleed was RR, LR, RF, LF. After it was all over the pedal was very mushy and just didn't feel right.

I recently checked the forums and found the Bleeding order pics for RR, LF, LR, RF. Would this solve the mush problem after re-bleeding? Or is it something to do with the ABS? I'm almost out of ATE since we ended up bleeding them 2 times in hopes of a better pedal.

 

the bleeding order have little to nothing to do with mushy pedal......you have air inside brake system which cause the soft pedal.

did you bleed both side of the front caliper ?
also.....try don't lose up the bleeder screw too much.


try to bleed it one more times. good luck

 

Odd question, but did you run the reservoir dry? If so you will need to re-bleed everything again. One more thought, did you use first the outside then the inside bleeders on all of your calipers? If not you may have air trapped on the insides of your calipers. Last one, did you re-bleed after starting the car and pumping the brakes? Starting the car should cycle the ABS and move the last of the air out.

 

Bleed one side at a time. There is 2 bleeding screw on the Brembo. Make sure you bleed both. Bleed until you see blue fluid flowing out.
With proper tools, you can bleed the brake by yourself.

 

Speed Bleeders (about 50 total for 8 of them) are one of the best time-savers avaliable. Try getting the M10 x 1.0mm x 33mm (I think) at PepBoys, Kragen, or the like and bleed them.

Speed Bleeders have a little check valve that lets the air out, and keeps the fluid in.

Good Luck,

jcnel.

 

sorry, ~$50.00 for eight speed bleeders.

 

Holy crap I totally missed the 2nd bleeder on the fronts, d'oh!!!!!! That would be the problem. Thanks for all of the info guys!

 

An reasonable alternative is to use a Motive pressure bleeder. Costs the same as a set of speedbleeders and it can be used on any car.

Just my two baht...

 

When I had my shop swap my Motul RBF600 in, they completely ran the system dry (they are used to dealing with non-abs race cars). Well, they filled & bleeded my system, i went away, came back w/ a mushy pedal. They bleeded again and more air bubbles came out. Felt ok till i actuated the ABS a few times, then the mushiness came back. After the 3rd bleed, the pedal feel is great. You just have to make sure all the air bubbles are out of the system that get inside the ABS solenoid/manifold if running the system dry. I've heard the best way is to plug in some tool that cycles the abs system while you are bleeding but i've never personally seen such a thing.

 

any more info on cycling the abs while bleeding? if you don't drain the system dry and you just keep pumping until the colors change... you shouldn't run into such a problem right?

 

but they do let fluid out and not let air back in when you are bleeding right?

 

best 'how to bleed' instructions for evo in the world

props to joe250.